MVRK's Build Thread - Lots of DIY's inside

[ninjaneer]

Those lighting mods should be exported to a how to on the proper section. Admins consideration...

they already are. like your "grizzly and yeti" thread, mvrk simply just wants a dedicated thread to document the mods he does to his ride.

it would be nice, though, if you, mvrk, updated the respective "mod" thread with your "twist" or "take" on it. if anything, post a link to this thread or this thread's particular post in the original "mod" thread, so that future folks who wish to perform the mod can click into this thread and appreciate your "lessons-learned"

 

[mvrk10256]

Another update. I have 8 sets machined and ready to ship. I did run into a small issue, While they would still be excellent for putting jackstands under the bike, my old sportbike lift isnt tall enought to pick it up. I stood the bike up vertically and realized that even at the axle it would not be tall enough. I have a cheapo from HF though so that may be why.

Anyway they will be available for sale through my site. www.maksinjection.com

If anyone wants to make their own for whatever reason:

 

[mvrk10256]

HID Upgrade - DDM TUNING - Bright Lights and stuff

So DDM Tuning sells a HID kit. These kits are universal but will fit the Vmax nicely. I went with a 55W 4500K bulb. Thats what you want if you want maximum light. I won't go into depth about the temp or the wattage.

Here is what you get:

- Take off the gas tank cover thing, and bull the guages - 10mm nuts

-Pull off and unplug the headlight. 2 phillips screws. Set it aside

-Time to put the new bulb into the housing. Simply pull of the black grommet, turn the twist lock and remove the old bulb. My DDM bulb didnt want to go in without a little massaging.

-Take off the seat, pop the gas release, and 2 x 10mm bolts

-Run the H4 plug out to the headlight

-Gently remove the coolant tank and run the power wire down to the battery

Now depending on the type of bike, the kit actually comes with a long and a short set of wires. We will use the short ones, so just zip tie the long ones together.

We need to lengthen the purple/black plug so cut off some of hte shielding, so you can push it up to the headlight.

They are not long enough to go into the headlight housing so just leave them here for now

You can put the ground where you want, but make sure its a good solid frame connection

All tucked in there

Plug up the headlight connections, put the headlight back in, connect the power to the battery .

Enjoy!

 

[donnelly317]

Question on your split LED mod. Went to radio shack found a pack of two yellow LED which appear to be the same that was in assorment there 3vdc-20ma-55mcd.. but also found clear (yellow in light) 2 pack 2.1vdc-20ma-1900mcd which from what I found is way brighter! Is this ok to use? I ended up buying both kinds just in case because there only a dollar something for 2

 

[mvrk10256]

You can use the brighter ones, the issue is that its hard to fit the larger LEDS inside the housing. Thats why I used the small ones.

 

[donnelly317]

You can use the brighter ones, the issue is that its hard to fit the larger LEDS inside the housing. Thats why I used the small ones.

There the same size unk:

 

[mvrk10256]

There the same size unk:

Winning.

 

[donnelly317]

Winning.

Yes sir! Part Number is 276-0351

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Fire-medic]

I have DDMtuning HID lights on my '09 GMC since shortly after I bought the truck new. They worked greaton the low bulbs but when I tried to use them on the highs, when I switched from lows to highs, there was a period while the highs built to maximum brightness, maybe about 12-15 seconds. I didn't like the 'dark' period, so I removed them from the brights. I dunno why that would happen w/the low beams but not the high beams. I have them in our Camry too. I have been meaning to get a bulb for my 7" headlamp I installed which by-itself gives a much-better pattern and better down-the-road lighting.

 

[donnelly317]

My last set on my bandit did the same.. buld has to warm up gases I'm thinking

 

[donnelly317]

Just another way of mounting balast and components I think this way is much better!



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[Overkill]

Hello! Apologies for the 10-year zombie rez of this thread. But I need some advice from anyone who has had experience with LED bulb replacements on their Vmax, the OP's input would be very much appreciated if still available.

I've been the proud owner of a 1st-gen Yamaha Vmax since 2015 (2004 model year). While I generally prefer to keep things stock or as close to stock as possible, I've been slowly replacing the lights with LEDs in an effort to ease up on the bike's electrical load (after one particularly memorable incident wherein I idled too long in heavy traffic at night and my battery drained from having all the lights on -- this was some years ago though). By just changing the bulbs on the headlight, taillight, and DRL/blinkers (and changing the blinker relay) with LEDs, I've actually gotten my 'max to idle at a healthy 12.7 volts, where it was previously 12.1 volts with the stock incandescent lights on.

I'm well on my way to replacing almost every other bulb with LEDs, and my search to know what types of bulbs to get for the speedometer and instrument cluster led me here. This thread was a great help on that front, thank you! Although now I am forced to ask for assistance as one pilot light now acts funny with the LED plugged in: When I turn on the bike, as soon as I switch the kill switch to the "on" position, the FUEL pilot light turns on. This despite the fact that my tank is full. This only happens with the LED bulb though; if I put back the incandescent bulb, it doesn't do this. I have also confirmed that the original incandescent bulb itself works.

I'm a bit of a DIY person, but admit that electronics are not my strong suit. I can solder and assemble to a degree, but need instruction on diagnosis with things like these.

Assistance would be much appreciated. Thank you!

 

[MaxMidnight]

Bin there and done that - it needs a ballast resistor so that the circuit thinks the bulb is still there.
Sorry, but I don't recall the value that I used.

 

[gesefe]

The low fuel bulb acts like a series circuit in the fuel pumps system. The fuel pump receives power through the bulb as long as your handlebar fuel switch is set to ON. As soon as the bulb goes on it will stop the pump, demanding the rider to turn the fuel switch to RESERVE. This way the fuel pump will receive power directly from battery circuit. If you change this bulb with an LED make sure to include a resistor calculated on the same ohmic resistance as your original bulb.

 

[Overkill]

The low fuel bulb acts like a series circuit in the fuel pumps system. The fuel pump receives power through the bulb as long as your handlebar fuel switch is set to ON. As soon as the bulb goes on it will stop the pump, demanding the rider to turn the fuel switch to RESERVE. This way the fuel pump will receive power directly from battery circuit. If you change this bulb with an LED make sure to include a resistor calculated on the same ohmic resistance as your original bulb.

Thank you! I figured a resistor may be a solution, but just couldn't be sure. Also don't know what rating to pick. Would you know specifically what would be appropriate for the Vmax's original instrument cluster bulbs?

 

[Fab333]

just measure the resistance of the original bulb and get one of the same value

 

[Overkill]

just measure the resistance of the original bulb and get one of the same value

Yes, I considered this but I don't have a multimeter, and I'm not sure if bringing the bulb to an electronics store and having them measure its resistance is a thing. But yeah, no harm in trying, I guess.

Thanks for the advice, y'all! I'll let you know how it goes in case someone can also use the knowledge 10 years from now.