My Intro followed by a VBoost question.

[sdt354]

I've gone +140 miles on a tank more than once, with full time open v-boost, and 17" tires. There is no unburnt fuel, says my light side of tan plugs. Full header systems change characteristics. It cost nothing to try it. Just unplug the round connector when the boost is wide open. If you don't like it, plug it back in. Just saying.

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

I've gone +140 miles on a tank more than once, with full time open v-boost, and 17" tires.

Where did you obtain a 17" rim? Aftermarket? What are your engine RPMs like with the larger rim?

I ask cause my previous Yamaha(which I still own) that I did that on was a 1982 Virago. I swapped a 16" Virago rim for the 18" Seca rim and dropped about 500 RPMs. And shedding 500 RPMs does a great deal for mileage.

*EDIT* 4 gallon stock tank, correct? I hit 120 miles before the lamp came on. So....in theory, I could go an additional 40 before running out. So stock, I am not far off from you.

 

[sdt354]

I resourced the wheels right here on the forum. Sean Morley was a big help in finding the front. Cruising at 5k, I'm going about 70 mph if I recollect. I'll confirm next ride. These engines like to cruise 5k to 6k for extended periods. My speedo is off a few mph verified by gps.

 

[sdt354]

Where did you obtain a 17" rim? Aftermarket? What are your engine RPMs like with the larger rim?

I ask cause my previous Yamaha(which I still own) that I did that on was a 1982 Virago. I swapped a 16" Virago rim for the 18" Seca rim and dropped about 500 RPMs. And shedding 500 RPMs does a great deal for mileage.

*EDIT* 4 gallon stock tank, correct? I hit 120 miles before the lamp came on. So....in theory, I could go an additional 40 before running out. So stock, I am not far off from you.

PM'd you.

 

[one2dmax]

We can still get you a 17" wheel if desired. You will LOSE mileage with the increased RPM but tires are easier to find a selection of (no problem finding good tires for the 18's we also offer) and the 17 will give quicker acceleration with the smaller diameter tire.

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

I thank everyone for their input, right now I plan on keeping it stock. Now, for some added fun....I asked about the idle screw a couple days back cause the bike idled too low. I never adjusted it. Took the bike for a 200 mile ride yesterday and I had the exact opposite problem....the bike would shoot the moon at idle. Would race up to 3000 RPM and just hang until I put it in gear and forced a lower RPM. Then it would stay for about 30 seconds, creep up to 2000 then scream to 3000. My first thought was a cable binding and causing the throttle to stick open. Was not the case here. So second thought was CV slides sticking. Since I was not able to immediately verify that the time it was happening, I checked this morning. Pulled the airbox and started the vehicle. 2 things jumped out....on the left side of the engine....The forward carb spits fuel out the top of the carb at slight acceleration. Goes away at higher RPM. The back carb CV slide Does not move like the others at the same range. 2000-3000 and up....everyone looks identical. Now....I do know how to sync carbs but dont have manometers to do so.

I have uploaded a video to YouTube on the running.

The carb spitting fuel out, you can feel air if you put your hand over it. Now, normally, in the automotive world, this means mechanical timing is off. But its only 1 cylinder and I have not had a downdraft carb bike before. So I am leaning more towards a carb issue. Any help with basic checks I can look at before getting a manometer?

 

[MaxMidnight]

I think you need to get the basics right i.e. the synchronisation sorted before diving in any further.

 

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I used a momentary contact DPDT switch to control vboost. Works great for on the fly adjustments. Nothing fancy. Just a regular toggle. I mounted it in an inconspicuous area.