My max works like a **** dog

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anteva2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2021
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Location
Murcia (Spain)
I've recently noticed that my 2005 Vmax is not running smoothly. Let me explain. Here in Europe it is very fashionable to make large roundabouts at the entrances to cities and within them. In these you have to go in 2nd gear at most, and it is ALWAYS in this situation when I notice that my bike is going like a "****** dog", it is stuttering, jerking, and having the sensation that either you accelerate or it will stop, and it is then, when accelerating, that it jerks wildly, it is practically uncontrollable at those low revolutions (between 2000 and 2800 rpm in 2nd gear)
I have removed the spark plugs, all good, tan in colour, without fuel or oil residue. I have removed the pistons to check the diaphragms, everything is fine, they slide correctly when accelerating.
The idle is quite unstable when the bike is hot, but it starts well when cold with the choke on. Then once it's hot and without the choke, the problems come at low revs and low speed.
None of the above happens above 3000 rpm, then the beast is unleashed.
I need my Max to be docile again in roundabouts and I don't know what to check anymore.
Thanks, guys
 
MaxMidnight is directing you to the easiest way to attempt to correct the issue, 'the Shotgun.' If that fails to clear the pilot jets you may need to remove the carburetors, the float bowls, and the jet blocks, to access the pilot jets, and to soak the carb pieces in an ultrasonic basin.

Briefly the false gas tank cover needs to be removed, the airbox needs to be removed, and the rack of carburetors has to be removed and the easiest way to disconnect the carburetor control cables is at the oblong nylon Box about a foot up the cables from where they are hooked to the carburetor rack throttle actuation mechanism. Splitting the carburetor rack into two pairs allows you to easily remove the float bowls and then you can access the jet block which has two brass carburetor jets in it the smaller of the two with the pilot jet is the one that normally gets clogged as it is the smallest orifice in the carburetor passageways. Be sure to use a narrow with slot head screwdriver that fits tightly in the female slot in the brass pilot jet so that you do not break off the brass female end. The best way to clean your carburetors is with an ultrasonic cleaner. Removal of the jet black allows you to access the two brass Jets and to make sure that they are see-through clean. If this is your first time and I assume it is I suggest that you use your camera to take pictures at every step that you're doing and take notes as well.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/vmax-newbe-longtime-biker.53821/#post-539262

You should look inside the gas tank and see what it appears to be. It should be shiny metal if you see any rust at all then you have to look into cleaning out the rust and then lining the tank . There are several different solutions that you can use but you have to follow the directions to the letter! If you fail to do that then the material does not stick.

I'd say that when everything was fine before and now all of a sudden you are developing blocked pilot jets, you definitely need to examine the tank. There are fiber optic cables that you can use with cameras that point directly ahead & to the side. You can hook that up to your phone or there are units that have their own LED screen. I have one and it works well.

Use the fiber optic scope down the gas tank filler and also remove the fuel level sender and then scope through that hole in the bottom of the gas tank also.

https://ia800204.us.archive.org/14/...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf

Another factory service manual, same thing, different numbering of the pages:
https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf7/1...x12_2001.pdf?78d960b0d2fbe67346bfd7a39ef24837

More posts for you to read:
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/poor-running-at-low-revs.54258/#post-543143

If you decide to purchase replacement carb parts, Do not buy the ebay all four carburetors replacement parts in one kit! These often don't have the correct parts. You will be doing your carburetors more harm than good trying to make these work!.

To help you become familiar with your carbs, start reading this at #1, and read all the posts to the last one. Pay attention to the parts sources listed.
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/carb-kits-questions.52635/#post-528910

If you read all these posts, you will have a much-better understanding of the in's & out's of the fuel system.

Traumahawk assumed dannymax's carburetor rebuilding business, and sending him a P.M. on here about a particular question, parts availability, or carburetor rebuilding services is one avenue of help on here. CaptainKyle at [email protected] and Sean Morley [email protected] are other members offering carb work, parts, and more.
 
Well, I've got down to work despite it being Sunday night. First thing tomorrow morning, Monday, I'll go get a good pressure carburettor cleaner to run through the PAJ1
For the moment, I've just started with the cylinder 2 carburettor, I've counted the revolutions until it closes (2.90), I've loosened it completely and, following the advice of someone here, with a straw to absorb liquids, I've introduced it, I've absorbed and this is what I've obtained...
 

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Tomorrow I will start the air compressor and I will use air and carburetor cleaner. Since I have some w40 spray with a nozzle, I took advantage and blew a little through the PAJ1 and now I don't know if I did it right...🤔🤔
 
Well, I've got down to work despite it being Sunday night. First thing tomorrow morning, Monday, I'll go get a good pressure carburettor cleaner to run through the PAJ1
For the moment, I've just started with the cylinder 2 carburettor, I've counted the revolutions until it closes (2.90), I've loosened it completely and, following the advice of someone here, with a straw to absorb liquids, I've introduced it, I've absorbed and this is what I've obtained...
There should still be a small washer, a small rubber oring, and a small spring still in the hole where the A/F screws came out of.
 
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