My Vmax performing like a 500cc

[radley]

sweet thanks guys.

i do have some silicone. would it pay to thicken up where the wires go by putting some heat shrink on there where i plan on having the wires go thru the grommet?

not sure how the hot oil would affect any of that, just thinking out loud here.

also should I leave a little more slack with the new stator wires? they are plenty long. i'm assuming i need to cut them back a bit so they are same length, or bit longer than the stock wires?

also there is that sheething.. just pull it over the wires and it'll sit like that? or would it pay to somehow cinch it up close to the grommet once i got that on, with a piece of shrink wrap over the end, and shrinked onto the wires.. also maybe do the connector end too? i dunno... just throwin ideas out there.

time isn't an issue. i'll be doing all kinds of things to this ol girl after work on weekdays bit by bit.

thanks ya'll rock!

 

[Bill Seward]

I'd lose the stock connector. It can corrode, cause heating, and melt... I would also solder the 3 wires, making cure to heat shrink them to keep them from shorting to each other, or ground.
Don't use hardware store crimps and a pair of pliers - they wont work for long...

A good alternative is PosiLock connectors. They are cheap, simple, and work well. They also are easily taken apart, in case you need to get the connections disassembled for any reason. There are waterproof PosiLocks made, too.

I have my Series SH775 regulator mounted under the seat where the coils once were. (I have a set of COPS installed). My RMStator stator had 3 foot long wires coming from it. I ran them up from the stator, and soldered them directly to the Furukawa connector to the regulator. (I have since added a set of Posilocks to the 3 wires for ease of removal - just in case.

For stator/regulator wires, I used the yellow posilocks. Blue were a bit small.

 

[sdt354]

I'd lose the stock connector. It can corrode, cause heating, and melt... I would also solder the 3 wires, making cure to heat shrink them to keep them from shorting to each other, or ground.
Don't use hardware store crimps and a pair of pliers - they wont work for long...

A good alternative is PosiLock connectors. They are cheap, simple, and work well. They also are easily taken apart, in case you need to get the connections disassembled for any reason. There are waterproof PosiLocks made, too.

I have my Series SH775 regulator mounted under the seat where the coils once were. (I have a set of COPS installed). My RMStator stator had 3 foot long wires coming from it. I ran them up from the stator, and soldered them directly to the Furukawa connector to the regulator. (I have since added a set of Posilocks to the 3 wires for ease of removal - just in case.

For stator/regulator wires, I used the yellow posilocks. Blue were a bit small.

They seem to work well for me too. Nice tight connection. I put a dab of silicone sealer on the ends for insurance.

 

[Bill Seward]

That's a good idea. I put a heat shrink over the connectors, but that doesn't keep water out, just keeps them from unscrewing... But the way they tighten, I doubt they'll ever work loose.

 

[Fire-medic]

Have you tried the marine heat shrink that has the sealing goop? I've also used a hot glue gun on connections to make them H20-retardent.

That's a good idea. I put a heat shrink over the connectors, but that doesn't keep water out, just keeps them from unscrewing... But the way they tighten, I doubt they'll ever work loose.

 

[Bill Seward]

Gonna fire up the glue gun tomorrow.. Funny how one never thinks of the obvious. Thanks for the tip!

 

[radley]

yeah good ideas fellas, thanks.

hot glue gun on the "wire" side of a connection? the stock connector for the stator are gonezo for sure.. but the new RM stator came with new connector... so i was gonna use that and hot glue gun (as of now) the wire side of the connector... should be good huh?


so should I CUT the stator wires that came with stator down a bit? or keep them that long... i'll install the Sh775 like you did Bill and put under seat.. yeah all coils out and got the COPS.

i dont want to have TOO much slack with th elonger stator wires, but maybe the length is good if needed and maybe i need all the length to make it up to the new R/R location... not sure.

been busy hunting so havent gotten to installing new stator into alternator cover and putting magents in and stuff.

should i worry about using some silicone around any part of the stator wire grommet? i'll do as previously mentioned use the sillicone on the wires when sliding grommet into position, but anything i gotta worry about on alternator cover/grommet spot?

 

[Bill Seward]

My wires were about a meter long, and were plenty long enough. I believe I used silicone to stick the grommet in place when I did the RoadStars stator. Never leaked. In my opinion, even using a new plug on the stator wires is inviting future problems, unless you seal the connector really well.
The best part of leaving the stator wires long as possible is the connections will be up under the seat, better protected from the wet. You can use 3 yellow posi lock connectors to hook them up to the regulator plug. I'd definitely run the regulator output through a fuse directly to battery, too.
I've got a high output RM Stator unit hooked up this way, and get 14.4 volts right off idle. With a set of headlight relays, my headlight is incredibly bright.. No need for fancy HID lighting, and bulbs are available everywhere.

I just put a 80/100 watt H4 in the bike, and with the relays and excellent voltage, it's even brighter. I used a ceramic headlight connector when I built the relay harness, and am having no problems with anything getting overheated..

 

[radley]

here is the new stator in place right now..

see that little bracket piece on top of it? i think it holds the wires outside of the stator? i didnt forget to put it somewhere correct?

does the rest of it look good to proceed? thanks.

iput some silicone on the grommet , well on the wires then slid grommet on and on outisde of wires and on grommet inside where it places in the alternator cover.. those U shaped cutouts for it...
everything OK so far?

 

[radley]

here is the new stator in place right now..

see that little bracket piece on top of it? i think it holds the wires outside of the stator? i didnt forget to put it somewhere correct?

does the rest of it look good to proceed? thanks.

iput some silicone on the grommet , well on the wires then slid grommet on and on outisde of wires and on grommet inside where it places in the alternator cover.. those U shaped cutouts for it...
everything OK so far?

hEY MATE, looks like you are making a little progress with it.. cool. new stator looks like it's in there correctly. the little wire guide you mention, yeah i think it mounts outside of the cover. or maybe in there somewhere, i'll have to take a look at some pics and try to find it..

 

[radley]

found the bracket. now quetion for ya'll..

as you can see, the bracket holds the stator wires on the underside of teh stator.... cuz you can't see the wires coming form the "top" of the stator in the old stator pic... so it's holding the wires on the bottom.. the new RM stator wires are pretty much tied into position and i put that side of the stator "down" if you will... so should i try to throw that bracket in there? looks like it screws into it's own spot on the underside of teh stator.. right? cuz i cant see it on the original stator pic before i started takign crap off....

 

[Bill Seward]

I would try to get all the original brackets in place if at all possible. You're going to use heavy wires from stator output to battery, right? And run a fuse inline between positive regulator output and battery? And use soldered on ring connectors to battery posts?

I used two big zipties to hold the regulator in place. Have some spares on hand cuz ya gotta cut them to move regulator for battery access.

I've done the charging dance with Godzilla from 1985 till I heard of the regulator upgrades. You sound like you're gonna be good with what you've done so far. As long as you're doing upgrades to the electrical system, consider headlight relays.. With your charging system working at 100% getting your headlight power directly from battery will really make things brighter.

 

[radley]

hey thanks man. ok i'll get that bracket back in there and mount it back on the alternator cover.

the wires from stator to the R/R.... if i'm not mistaken, thats the correct order or components right?

yeah the wires from stator to R/R came with stator...RM stator i'm sure they are good enough good gauge i can only hope... then i got 14g like you said to run from R/R to battery... got the directions u sent me, have a 30amp fuse for inline like u said.. i'll get to all that stuff after i mount this stator back in there and get the mid gear cover back on and etc.... after i get the gasket for it from boats.net. i'll update once i get that far.. also i'll definitely do what u said about getting brighter headlight.. def need that too. but we'll get there. one step at a time for me.

 

[Bill Seward]

Go to Easternbaever.com for relays. you can buy a really nice prewired plug and play harness, or buy the components and solder up your own harness.
Get the "infairing" kit. This will let you stash the relays under the fake tank. My relays live in the headlight bucket - it's a tight fit. Someday I'll lengthen the wires to the plug to allow me to move them out of there.

 

[radley]

just an FYI..

that bracket that holds the wires on the old stator aint gonna work. no spot to put a screw to put it in there. plus the RM stator wires are tied to the stator itself and already lines up well with the protector bracket thing. so just for anyone puttin gin an RM stator, you won't b be using that bracket again with new stator.

 

[radley]

So now time to solder up the stator wires. my RM Stator came with 3 long enough stator wires wrapped in yellow, then i put the black sheathing thing over it and ran em up towards battery where my new SH775 will sit, on top of the bracket that now no longer holds rear coils and i cut the tabs off the bracket as they are not needed and I need the room for the R/R.

The gray plug is the one for the stator, those 3 wires. a black connector was used on the stock setup that was hooked up to the stock R/R - from the stock stator.. that black connector is gone now.

What orientation should those rubber plugs be? I assume they will go on the wire, then I solder the wire to the metal connector piece, then push the metal connector piece into the gray connector, then what is the order, does that black plastic piece go in first before the ribbed rubber band thing? or vice versa?

I also assume keep the orientation of the metal connector piece "up" when i push it into the gray big connector as shown?

thanks all and esp. Mr. Seward for all his help.

 

[Bill Seward]

Little plugs go in skinny end first. Don't solder the wires till you feed them through the main connector. They get inserted by pulling the wire till they click into place. I believe the small plastic pieces go next, then the rubber parts, which seal the water out. Having the extra long wires from the stator was a great idea. Nice to know there are no connections out in the elements to corrode and cause problems.

 

[radley]

Little plugs go in skinny end first. Don't solder the wires till you feed them through the main connector. They get inserted by pulling the wire till they click into place. I believe the small plastic pieces go next, then the rubber parts, which seal the water out. Having the extra long wires from the stator was a great idea. Nice to know there are no connections out in the elements to corrode and cause problems.

thanks man!

thanks for the clarification on the metal parts too.. they are PULLED IN, from the "connecting" side of the gray connector... dang ok.. i thought they would get "pushed in" from behind... sweet thanks!

ok... i am going to get on these connections.. question with what to do with the wires from the OLD R/R.

oh, and also, the RM Stator wires came like that.. plenty long, wish it was my idea but.. they are perfect length, and then some, to plug into new R/R location under seat.

ok so heres a pic.. you see the old stator... the 3 white wires are the stator wires, and the red one must be Positive? see now, after I cut it off, the old R/R, what do I do with this positive wire if I am going to run an isolated positive wire from the R/R to the positive terminal on battery? or should I run the positive wire from R/R, install the fuse, and connect to this red wire?

 

[radley]

thanks man!

thanks for the clarification on the metal parts too.. they are PULLED IN, from the "connecting" side of the gray connector... dang ok.. i thought they would get "pushed in" from behind... sweet thanks!

ok... i am going to get on these connections.. question with what to do with the wires from the OLD R/R.

oh, and also, the RM Stator wires came like that.. plenty long, wish it was my idea but.. they are perfect length, and then some, to plug into new R/R location under seat.

ok so heres a pic.. you see the old stator... the 3 white wires are the stator wires, and the red one must be Positive? see now, after I cut it off, the old R/R, what do I do with this positive wire if I am going to run an isolated positive wire from the R/R to the positive terminal on battery? or should I run the positive wire from R/R, install the fuse, and connect to this red wire?

in case the pic didnt load up

 

[Bill Seward]

Cut the red wire. Tape it up very well, put double heat shrink tube on it, and zip-tie it out of sight. Trying to connect your output to it would defeat the purpose of putting the regulator up under the seat, and connecting to battery. You're gonna be amazed how the bike charges now! Post your voltage numbers.