slobmanrf
Well-Known Member
RaWarrior, I hod the same problem with mine.STATOR WIRES! Oil rides the copper through the grommet.it collects in the harness and drips out the burn hole your kerker made!lol
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RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
The sleeve over the stator wires on mine was filled with nasty water....
When I had the stator cover off (and the stator out), I used some of the threebond on both sides of the grommet, since the wires in my Rick's stator grommet didn't fit very snug at all. Pushed the wires "in", applied a glob of sealant, then pulled the wires through, hopefully pulling some of the gunk into the grommet as well. I did that on the outside as well.
When I had the stator cover off (and the stator out), I used some of the threebond on both sides of the grommet, since the wires in my Rick's stator grommet didn't fit very snug at all. Pushed the wires "in", applied a glob of sealant, then pulled the wires through, hopefully pulling some of the gunk into the grommet as well. I did that on the outside as well.
I got down on the ground with a flashlight and found patches of oil, small amounts, all over the left side of my 89's engine. That's just Wonderful. I took some electrical contact cleaner that's safe for plastic and sprayed everything down to flush the oil away. I went back and used Kleenex's to dry everything including wires on the left. Next, I put clean Kleenex's in every nook and cranny I could. Fired up the engine on the side stand and let it come up in temperature so more oil would leak. This should give me a good idea of what I'm actually fighting....:bang head::bang head::bang head:
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
My trick in cases of "where's the leak" is to clean everything up as you said, then get a can of that aerosol white foot powder stuff. Spray it all over everything in the suspect area...it'll coat it all in a white powder. Leaks (or drip trails) become quite obvious.
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ryan hows your leak man? my bike has the 'front of the stator cover leak' that over time spreads over the stator cover then comes and wants to fly off onto my boots haha. whats weird is it comes and goes. sometimes it'll be there, somtimes not. mostly when i'm running at 80+mph for extended periods of time. it seems so small and never drips i might just try a bead of rtv over the top.
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
Currently I'm "cautiously optimistic" that it's cured. I've been on several longer rides(including one with lots of traffic, heating the motor up as hot as it ever gets) and have been checking, and so far so good.
No drips forming, no residue, so far it's bone dry.
I also switched from mobil 1 4T full syn 10w40 to Rotella conventional 15w40 at the same time. While I wouldn't think that would make a difference, I suppose it's worth noting.
So my fix was to remove both covers, re-face them both on a belt sander until flat (using a tell tale, in my case a line of sharpie ink), and use threebond sealant. For the stator, I used OE gasket+3bond, for the gear cover, I used just 3bond. Would have used a gasket, but dealer didn't have any in stock and I didn't feel like waiting around for one.
I also realized that my starter worked fine w/o a gasket probably because the cover wasn't "fully" flush...the warpage was creating just enough clearance for it to be OK. Once it sat flat, it was bound up. Adding the gasket back in freed up the starter.
No drips forming, no residue, so far it's bone dry.
I also switched from mobil 1 4T full syn 10w40 to Rotella conventional 15w40 at the same time. While I wouldn't think that would make a difference, I suppose it's worth noting.
So my fix was to remove both covers, re-face them both on a belt sander until flat (using a tell tale, in my case a line of sharpie ink), and use threebond sealant. For the stator, I used OE gasket+3bond, for the gear cover, I used just 3bond. Would have used a gasket, but dealer didn't have any in stock and I didn't feel like waiting around for one.
I also realized that my starter worked fine w/o a gasket probably because the cover wasn't "fully" flush...the warpage was creating just enough clearance for it to be OK. Once it sat flat, it was bound up. Adding the gasket back in freed up the starter.
i'd probably just have mine re-faced at the machine shop if it ends up being tweaked. can u explain the 'sharpie' mark a bit more, having ahard time picturing it for some reason..
or did u put sharpie on the engine side of the opening and put the cover up to it and where marks were it needed to be ground down?
or did u put sharpie on the engine side of the opening and put the cover up to it and where marks were it needed to be ground down?
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
I used the sharpie while I was sanding the covers. I'd draw a line around the mating surface, then quickly but firmly "swipe" the cover across the belt. Where the ink remained I knew wasn't being faced, so I'd grind it a bit, re-draw the line, and try again.
To initially determine the high spots, I just put the cover on the table saw surface, probably the "flattest" thing I could find handy. It had a very(and I mean barely noticeable) slight rock when pushed on in a certain axis, so that gave me the general idea where the problem was. For me, the top-left corner(where the starter axle holders) was a "high spot" relative to the rest.
I was considering re-doing the covers on a mill up at school, but I figured it would be fairly tough to get the mating surface perfectly level, when I know it isn't straight. Would I get it level relative to the warped area, or relative to the "good" area? It's kind of a tough shape to get in a clamp also. I was also unsure how much material to take off. Don't take enough and you might not make a difference. Too much and you'll bind up the starter(or have to use multiple gaskets). So I went for the big horizontal belt sander instead.
To initially determine the high spots, I just put the cover on the table saw surface, probably the "flattest" thing I could find handy. It had a very(and I mean barely noticeable) slight rock when pushed on in a certain axis, so that gave me the general idea where the problem was. For me, the top-left corner(where the starter axle holders) was a "high spot" relative to the rest.
I was considering re-doing the covers on a mill up at school, but I figured it would be fairly tough to get the mating surface perfectly level, when I know it isn't straight. Would I get it level relative to the warped area, or relative to the "good" area? It's kind of a tough shape to get in a clamp also. I was also unsure how much material to take off. Don't take enough and you might not make a difference. Too much and you'll bind up the starter(or have to use multiple gaskets). So I went for the big horizontal belt sander instead.
i gotcha. i think mine has a high spot there too, hence why it leaks there
i assume the machine shop could put it in the vice and start taking measurements vs the mill head from different areas and try to level it that way...
i give you credit for doing it yourself, i wouldn't have the kahones to take a sander to mine. haha.
Clifton Jewell
Member
How much oil should come from inspection cover on stator
