I'm just giving Dannymax a hard time. I don't think he'd post something inaccurate.
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I'm just giving Dannymax a hard time. I don't think he'd post something inaccurate.
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Axle nut-108 ft lbs
Caliper bolt-29 ft lbs
Brake torque rod nut-35 ft lbs
Pinch bolt-11 ft lbs
Per the 'Good Book'[/quote]
Don't listen to the Good Book about the axle nut torque, as that is too much. It will make the diff run way too hot. Chris's suggestion of no more than 75 ft lbs is better.
Of course not, Tom. If I didn't know for sure, or was directly quoteing from the v max manual I wouldn't post it, nor would anyone else on this forum.
In this instance my info came from my '99 owners manual. It surprised me that the rear axle torque spec is about 2 1/2 times what it is for the front axle, but 'The Good Book' sez!!:biglaugh:
Course the Good Book also Sez 2.2 ft lbs on the steering axle nuts, sooooo............?
Its all good, I have been reading this forum long enough to know most of yall give the best information you can when asked.(I read more then post of course) 108 seemed like alot to me as well so I will go with 75.
Thanks to everyone for the input and the jokes, with out the leg pulling this forum would be boring.
Thanks to everyone for the input and the jokes, with out the leg pulling this forum would be boring.
4gasem
Well-Known Member
As long as ya'll stick to pulling each others legs and not your peckers... :rofl_200:
COP RUNNER
Well-Known Member
" NOW THATS FUNNY '' :rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
I only torque my rear axle nut to 40-45 ft/lbs. The later models with the lock nut can get away with a lot less torque on the nut. Feel your diff after a ride and it will be hot, mine is slightly warm at best. Heat=HP/torque loss. Of course you can put 75 ft/bs and be sure that the nut won't come off.
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
How I torque my rear axle is.
I apply blue threadlock to the axle thread.
Install the flast washer
Install the axle nut
I begin tightening the axle nut as I spin the rear tire by hand.
Once I feel a little resistence I back the axle nut off 1/4 turn and leave it.
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
Not a bad method I think,....
I have been gradually backing mine off a little at a time and am down to 35lbs with no ill effects...I'm no expert but can't see any reason to take it as high as they say, the way I'm seeing it is that the the left side bearing is a straight needle bearing which doesn't see any compression from axle nut torque and the right side is a sealed with a spacer in the middle of the axle/wheel to take the load. The inside portion of the right side bearing is what gets the compression load from the torqueing. The bearing themselves on the right side only see lateral load if the spacer or washer lengths/thicknesses are off which would put undue horizontal/lateral compression on it which it is not designed to take.
Tried this method yesterday but could only turn the wheel about 1 revolution before it would stop. The bearings are turning free with plenty of lube. The final drive gear spline can be moved by hand but just barely, there is too much resistance.
Is this an excessive amount of resistance?
Maybe I need to re phrase this- Has anyone turned their rear wheel by hand, with the bike on the center stand?
If so did you encounter:
1) A lot of resistance
2) Some resistance
3) No resistance- the wheel spun freely
Oiling the chain, Danny? :rofl_200:
:rofl_200:That's a good one Tom!:rofl_200: Actually, I was Armour Alling off my chicken strips and the tire was getting too slippery to turn by hand.........what's a guy to do?? :ummm:
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There will be some resistance because of the drivetrain.
Thanks BH, just making sure something isn't binding up.
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