Need Help with R1 Front End

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coruscantkid

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I am in the process of adding 2000 R1 forks to my mAX. I'd like to know which springs I will need to re-spring the front end for the added weight. Thanks in advance.
 
i ran the cycle one off triples with a set of 2001 r1 forks-no spring change. i am currently running a set of 2005 r1 forks with the otec triples-racetech 1.0 springs. without the spring change, i think you'll find the front end dives under hard braking and will cause the exhaust downpipes to scrape the pavement. the otec triples give better clearance without the use of the fork extensions. if you need any other help shoot me a pm-i've done this mod twice and may be able to help if you run into any trouble. first pic is 01 setup w/cycleoneoff triples. second pic is current 05 setup w/otec triples

later odieoh24
 

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i ran the cycle one off triples with a set of 2001 r1 forks-no spring change. i am currently running a set of 2005 r1 forks with the otec triples-racetech 1.0 springs. without the spring change, i think you'll find the front end dives under hard braking and will cause the exhaust downpipes to scrape the pavement. the otec triples give better clearance without the use of the fork extensions. if you need any other help shoot me a pm-i've done this mod twice and may be able to help if you run into any trouble. first pic is 01 setup w/cycleoneoff triples. second pic is current 05 setup w/otec triples

later odieoh24


hey odieoh... that is a gorgeous bike man... i love that front end, wish i had the $$ to do it as well... maybe oneday..
 
Odieoh, thanks for the reply. I have a friend who is master fabricator/engineer/machinist milling a set for me. I have incorporated a 2.75" drop from the stock to accomodate the difference in fork length. How far does the COO triples drop for comparison? Thanks again.
 
Odieoh, thanks for the reply. I have a friend who is master fabricator/engineer/machinist milling a set for me. I have incorporated a 2.75" drop from the stock to accomodate the difference in fork length. How far does the COO triples drop for comparison? Thanks again.

COO triples are 1 1/2" drop as are the otec's. however the otec triples are dropped on both the upper and lower whereas the COO triples are only dropped on the top. i know with the COO setup i was scraping the exhaust under the bike and the forks were flush with the top triple, with the otec triples i was able to reinstall the bellypan and the forks are about 3/4 inch above the top triple.
 

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You will need to factor YOUR weight for the spring rate in addition to the bikes weight.

odieoh and i corresponded quite a bit while we both did the upgrade.

I have 1.1 springs, but im 250lbs and ride 2up quite often.

racetech.com has a spring rate calculator for every bike including the max. you punch in your weight and it will tell you.

in addition to springs, if you want to properly set up your forks you should have them revalved, since the forks have been valved for a 450 lb bike
 
COO triples are 1 1/2" drop as are the otec's. however the otec triples are dropped on both the upper and lower whereas the COO triples are only dropped on the top. i know with the COO setup i was scraping the exhaust under the bike and the forks were flush with the top triple, with the otec triples i was able to reinstall the bellypan and the forks are about 3/4 inch above the top triple.


This doesn't make sense if they are are both 1 1/2" drop on the top. the bottom is just for support and it doesn't matter where the bottom clamps, at least to my logic. Maybe you installed them upside down :biglaugh: ..sorry :biglaugh::biglaugh:

Taylor made makes nice triples with no drop, but what they are saying they extend R1 forks somehow. I love the look of them.
vmax_usd_beefy_t.jpg


here is the LINK

Vitek
 
This doesn't make sense if they are are both 1 1/2" drop on the top. the bottom is just for support and it doesn't matter where the bottom clamps, at least to my logic. Maybe you installed them upside down :biglaugh: ..sorry :biglaugh::biglaugh:

Taylor made makes nice triples with no drop, but what they are saying they extend R1 forks somehow. I love the look of them.
vmax_usd_beefy_t.jpg


here is the LINK

Vitek

i cant explain it myself! i know i had to drop the forks the 3/4 inch to keep the oil lite from coming on after i installed the otecs. originally i placed the forks flush with the top triple, as they were with the COO setup. it seemed to me with the cycleoneoff triples the bike leaned forward more in the front keeping the oil in the pan up towards the sending unit. this also allowed the exhaust to scrape both in the corners and on small bumps. since changing them out for the otecs i have not bottomed out once
steve taylor does indeed make quality stuff as well, they are using a billet extension on the tops of the fork tubes to make them longer. COO also offers these in 3 different lengths. with the extensions the COO setup is as good as the otecs.

later odieoh24
 
The stock R1 springs are way to soft. They have to be changed with anyone's triples you use. I put racetech springs in all my front-end jobs and haven't had any issues of scraping the belly. I have some big dudes out there with this set-up!! The guys that do buy the extensions just want to bring the bike up for a little more clearance. Rebuild your forks and use the racetechs and you will be fine.

Oh check this out one of my customers did a 08 R1 front-end.

Regards
Tom
Cycle One-off Inc.
P.O. Box 15415
Rochester, NY 14615
Order by phone toll free 1(866) 238-5450
[email protected]
www.cycleoneoff.com
 

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<<in addition to springs, if you want to properly set up your forks you should have them revalved, since the forks have been valved for a 450 lb bike>>

Got to re-valve in addition to springs..should NOT dive if valving is correct..this is more important than the Springs IMO
 
<<in addition to springs, if you want to properly set up your forks you should have them revalved, since the forks have been valved for a 450 lb bike>>

Got to re-valve in addition to springs..should NOT dive if valving is correct..this is more important than the Springs IMO
When you say revalving, what is involved with that? It's not just the Racetech emulators that you change is it? If not, does this require sending unit to someone for retrofitting or is this a project you can do on your own garage bench?
 
When you say revalving, what is involved with that? It's not just the Racetech emulators that you change is it? If not, does this require sending unit to someone for retrofitting or is this a project you can do on your own garage bench?


Could you revalve your forks yourself? sure you could if you know what your doing, it really takes a special knowledge. I personally dont know enough about fork internals to do it myself.

I believe Emulators would be considered revalving.

As the other guy mentioned revalving is probably more important than different springs.

When I did my r1 forks I spoke to a couple experts listed below and racetech and Works, when I told racetech and works I was dealing with Jim at Lindeman they hesitantly said he is the best in the biz.

one guy, lives near me, used to work for a Yamaha snowmibile Pro race team, he actually worked side by side/apprenticed here in minnesota with the Swede that started/owns Ohlins.

Also talked to Jim at www.le-suspension.com Look at his site. This is the guy that people go to to have their 3000.00 ohlins reworked to make them better, yes this is true. These are Pro AMA racers. Some of these rcers use emulators and jim either reworks the emulators or removes the emulators and reworks the forks internals, cant remember.

I told Jim alot of vmaxers use the emulators and asked him if he could rework the max forks internals. He said he could but hadnt done any yet. An AMA pro rebuild of the forks is 500.00, to me this isnt to expensive, it includes, seals, springs and the revalving. Cost me 300 just to install new springs and seals on my r1 forks.

This guy actually has more AMA championships than Ohlins, racetech and son on.

They both said the Emulators really arent all that great, you could just get a stiff spring and get the same result.

the emulators have. oh how shall i put it, wish i had the pics to post, there are holes that the fluid goes through when the fork compresses and then rebounds, these holes are too small therfore not allowing the fluid to move back and forth, somewhat restricted, thats why some people who use the emulators complain about stiffness.
 

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