New from Missouri

[user 80813]

I joined a little while ago and did a whole lot of reading and research around here. Also found the links to download the Vmax service manual and owner's manual.........Thank You!
Next week I will pick up a 1989 Vmax which was last running/driving in 2011, makes for a great winter project. The current owner bought it some years ago, started to take the carbs of but was overwhelmed once he removed the air box. I know I have to at least address the entire fuel system, replace the aged tires and all fluids. the bike has 13k miles and comes with a Corbin seat, new battery and new plugs.

Little bit about myself. I am retired military, worked all my life as a mechanic and in the maintenance field. Been riding motorcycles since 1976 and everything form a Kawasakei H2, several Harleys and the last few bikes were BMW R1200GS's. I can pretty much do everything myself as long as I have a manual and the proper tools. My wife says I bought the Vmax because I have more money than sense. I have been wanting one for a long time and, although I could just buy a running bike, I like to turn wrenches and a challenge as you can see in the photos. Glad to be here!

 

[Fire-medic]

Welcome to the place to gain VMax knowledge. I bet a bike off the road for the past 12 years was pretty-inexpensive, compared to a runner. If the engine turns over and has compression, that's a big part of the project. Getting it running before you do any cosmetics or buy new tires for it is a good approach. I'd see what the interior of the gas tank looks like. If it's rusty, cleaning vinegar 6% is a good rust remover, just remember to remove the fuel sender bolted in from the bottom and install a block-off plate in its place. If you don't vinegar will dissolve the metal, given enough time.

Be sure to make a thread on the return to functionality, and include lots of pics, we love pics.

 

[Radioguylogs]

Welcome.

Your wife will be complimenting you before this is over.

I dragged home some carcasses that my wife swore would never run again.

 

[CaptainKyle]

Welcome and good luck with the project

 

[user 80813]

The Vmax cost me $1200.00. It actually looks crappy in the photos, but it is mostly covered with a bunch of saw dust. It was nice (at least cosmetically) when parked inside his garage. A running Vmax of that vintage and within reasonable driving distance goes anywhere between 3k and 4K and, in all likelihood, will need some work as well. After I pick it up I will reassemble the bike so I can clean it and will post some pictures before tearing it down for needed repairs.

My first question. Who makes a good carburetor repair kit? There are so many choices on eBay and all relatively cheap.

 

[Fire-medic]

Who makes a good carburetor repair kit? There are so many choices on eBay and all relatively cheap.

Do NOT buy the 'all four carburetors in one gigantic kit' sets! Anyone who's mentioned them on here, more-often than not, has had issues with them.

Use either OEM or K & L kits. The K&L kit #: 18-2879 as below.



For the jet block rubber plugs, they look like tiny rubber corks:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2919073839...id=&campid=5338413729&toolid=10001&mpt=839862
We have CaptainKyle to thank for these.

You can also contact Sean Morley for OEM parts, and they will come with a resource who can answer your questions [email protected]

I use Ron Ayres Yamaha in NC for most of my parts.

A member specialist in VMax carburetor parts and rebuilding is dannymax [email protected] who is another member who offers parts and carburetor services. I have also had good results with him, as have many other forum members; contact him via email.

CaptainKyle is another person who offers VMax specific services. He does painting also. [email protected]



I think this one is from dannymax:



Bench-set the carbs, and wet-check them on the bike. Instructions are in the service manual.

 

[user 80813]

Fire-Medic,

Thank you for your extensive and educational reply and for providing me advice on the carb kits needed. I have read about the forum members you mentioned and it is great to have so many knowledgeable people on this forum. Hopefully, one day, after I got some Vmax experience under my belt I can make some meaningful contributions.

Does the eBay link contain plugs for 1 or 4 carbs? Just asking because the photo shows two different plugs, but four each of them.

 

[Fire-medic]

the photo shows two different plugs, but four each of them.

Each jet block uses 2 rubber plugs, different sizes. You need 4 of small size, and 4 of large size. That will cover your carb rubber stopper needs, for 1 bike.

 

[user 80813]

Thank you!

 

[maxxlove]

Did you buy this bike in fwstus..I looked at it I think

 

[maxxlove]

Festus..my bad

 

[user 80813]

Yes, Festus, MO. I am going there tomorrow to buy it. What did you think about it?

What I couldn't figure from the photos was if the plugs are removed. I also assume that the carbs have sawdust in them. It's definitely a project.

 

[maxxlove]

Did.ypu pick it up?? I just noticed this ..I think I only looked St the add then called theguy..his words were I Don think the motor is bad...

 

[maxxlove]

Mine is down right now

 

[Fire-medic]

1985-'89 wiring diagram



1990+ for comparison. Main difference is the ignition box and pick-up coils for the ignition.

 

[maxxlove]

I also have a carb sync ..digi sync.. if you need help when you get carbs rebuilt

 

[user 80813]

Picked the bike up today and she is sitting in my garage. I wanted a project and that is what I got.

Initial assessment: carbs are sticking and have some saw dust in them since the air box was not in place, with the plugs removed and in high gear the engine turns over when turning the rear wheel, front and rear brakes are applying and releasing, clutch appears to be working (at least the hydraulic portion). Looks like the bike is all OEM except for the Corbin seat and the flyscreen.
I gave it a superficial cleaning and put some of the parts back on to see what I got, see photos.

Question......is the ignition key for the gas cap as well? I wanted to check the inside of the tank but can't remove the cap.

 

[Fire-medic]

You have aftermarket side scoops. Are they fiberglass?

Try pushing down on the gas cap as you try to turn the key. If that doesn't work try some PB Blaster in the key slot. The mechanism could be gummed-up if it's been sitting for years. If all than fails, you can take it to a locksmith and then have them make a key for you if the ignition key isn't doing the job. An alternative to that is to remove the gas tank, and use a l-o-n-g #2 phillips to remove the two phillips screws on the underside of the gas cap. Remove the fuel level sender to see the screws. When you remove the screws, the gas cap should fall-off. Don't lose the pieces, you should be able to replace them easily, if you collected them all. I believe there's a gas cap cleaning/overhaul in the threads, use the search function.

 

[maxxlove]

Sounds
Cool..I just took mine apart and it doesnt lock anymore..lol if you need a carb sync tool let me kno.

 

[user 80813]

Yes, scoops are fiberglass. Also has a 170 mm rear tire.
Two things that have to be changed for better ergonomics are to install a higher/wider handlebar and lower foot pegs. I am 6’2”.