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hahaha. the monkey really has a good grip on your gnads, doesn't he.

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
 
hahaha. the monkey really has a good grip on your gnads, doesn't he.

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android

I never leave well enough alone. I am 22 and have gone through 7 cars, 1 truck, 4 motorcycles. all of which i bought. Its a disease.
 
If your looking for suggestions, I'd do SS line along with the break flush. If you plan to ride it like a sport bike, IMHO it would benefit greatly with a braced swing arm.

Of course I would suggest you have your seat redone by Sean (one2dmax). He is also a great source for any parts you might want. If your think she is running rich, I would recommend you find someone that can dyno it with an O2 sensor. Is the air filter stock or has something been added like pods?

Your going to love the bike, just don't plan on pushing it hard into corners like you can a crouch rocket.

OH YEAH, get a shift light!
 
If you didn't buy them someone wants their stuff back lol!

:shhh:

If your looking for suggestions, I'd do SS line along with the break flush. If you plan to ride it like a sport bike, IMHO it would benefit greatly with a braced swing arm.

Of course I would suggest you have your seat redone by Sean (one2dmax). He is also a great source for any parts you might want. If your think she is running rich, I would recommend you find someone that can dyno it with an O2 sensor. Is the air filter stock or has something been added like pods?

Your going to love the bike, just don't plan on pushing it hard into corners like you can a crouch rocket.

OH YEAH, get a shift light!

The seat is stock and very comfy for my behind so I am not sure what else needs to be done to it. It has a Stage 7 kit as well as pod filters. I read on here there were like 4 basic test for adjusting carbs, I need to buy a sync tool and get to that, but I will take it one step at a time. I am going to do the light mods first as they are the most critical to me - I ride at night or in the dark a lot - and then take care of the front forks. What is a braced swing arm? I will do some searching when I get home, but if anyone wants to save me the trouble go right ahead.

if you havent already, read the first two posts of this thread: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21240


it's full of modding ideas and precious tidbits of valuable information.

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android

Actually I read through that thread, and it was one of the things that convinced me to get the VMAX.

All in all thanks guys for being so damn helpful! Definitely one of the nicer forums. Ill get pics and a build thread up soon!
 
After you get some time in the saddle, try to hook-up w/someone who has radials on their bike. I would call it the #1 mod to do, assuming everything else is safe and not in-need of repair.

17" or 18" rear wheel, ~5.5" wide rim, buy a used Kosman to save $$, or ask Sean to send you $2K worth of aluminum/Italian bike porn (Carrozzeria wheels) re-use your front wheel w/a 110 width tire, the front wheel width isn't optimal (by a long shot!) for a radial, but if you try it, you'll never go back to bias-ply tires.

Radials do change the bike's dynamics significantly, and eliminate miscellaneous handling complaints you may have. Nobody on here who has done it would consider going-back (the Mod Monkey would eat 'em alive!):rofl_200:
 
After you get some time in the saddle, try to hook-up w/someone who has radials on their bike. I would call it the #1 mod to do, assuming everything else is safe and not in-need of repair.

17" or 18" rear wheel, ~5.5" wide rim, buy a used Kosman to save $$, or ask Sean to send you $2K worth of aluminum/Italian bike porn (Carrozzeria wheels) re-use your front wheel w/a 110 width tire, the front wheel width isn't optimal (by a long shot!) for a radial, but if you try it, you'll never go back to bias-ply tires.

Radials do change the bike's dynamics significantly, and eliminate miscellaneous handling complaints you may have. Nobody on here who has done it would consider going-back (the Mod Monkey would eat 'em alive!):rofl_200:

*rolls out poor college kid line*

Ya. That shit is awesome. But thats a little beyond the scope of what I got going on right now. I have two perfectly good bias plys, and I will stick to them.

Maksim
 
OK- if its got pods, that may be your biggest problem tuning the bike. I know a lot of people will says pods are wonderful, but it is much easier to get the bike to run right all the way thru the range with the stock air box. If you plan to stick with the pods, best make friends with some riders that have been there and done that. Don't get me wrong, you can make a bike run good with pods- it just takes more work.
 
In my experience, the V-Max is great for "normal" driving. But when you start pushing it hard, the swingarm will start flexing. Add that to forks that will flex a lot, and you can have a real beast to handle. Good news is you have a later model with the bigger forks so the front end is now so much of a problem.

There are a lot of places that offer braced swingarms. Again talk to Sean. He will work with you and I believe he can normally send you a braced swingarm and have you send back your stock arm after you make the switch He can also instal new bearing if you want to make the swap an afternoon project. While you are at it, might as well have it "notched" incase you decide to put a big tire on the back when you wear out the one you have.

Belive me, if you want to hot dog the max- you really want to put SS lines on it.

This site is a bit dated, but I think you will get some great info from it as he build his bike in stages and gives remarks about each step along the way.

http://cruton.bmg.uab.edu/
 
...While you are at it, might as well have it "notched" incase you decide to put a big tire on the back when you wear out the one you have.

+1. I don't know how this escaped me. I guess when I read "braced" I immediately assumed "notched" as well--prolly cause I can't recall reading anyone bracing their swingarm only.

Dude, after reading your plans, I think a wide rear is also in your to-do list. With a stock arm and wheel, the widest you can go is a 170, which does provided a wider profile, but it really needs to be a bit wider to really look bad ass.

For me my plan is to get a notched swing arm and while I was at to get it braced--in contrast to the getting it braced and notching it while I was at it. This statement should reveal my driving style.
 
OK- if its got pods, that may be your biggest problem tuning the bike. I know a lot of people will says pods are wonderful, but it is much easier to get the bike to run right all the way thru the range with the stock air box. If you plan to stick with the pods, best make friends with some riders that have been there and done that. Don't get me wrong, you can make a bike run good with pods- it just takes more work.

Well its like double pods inside the stock air box with no cover on it.

In my experience, the V-Max is great for "normal" driving. But when you start pushing it hard, the swingarm will start flexing. Add that to forks that will flex a lot, and you can have a real beast to handle. Good news is you have a later model with the bigger forks so the front end is now so much of a problem.

There are a lot of places that offer braced swingarms. Again talk to Sean. He will work with you and I believe he can normally send you a braced swingarm and have you send back your stock arm after you make the switch He can also instal new bearing if you want to make the swap an afternoon project. While you are at it, might as well have it "notched" incase you decide to put a big tire on the back when you wear out the one you have.

Belive me, if you want to hot dog the max- you really want to put SS lines on it.

This site is a bit dated, but I think you will get some great info from it as he build his bike in stages and gives remarks about each step along the way.

http://cruton.bmg.uab.edu/

I plan on riding the Vmax as a touring bike for the most part. Maybe some small twisties. When I have the cash I would rather get a dedicated sport bike. The SV tried to do both and fails miserably. I take the Vmax for what its worth. Great site, thanks for the link.

+1. I don't know how this escaped me. I guess when I read "braced" I immediately assumed "notched" as well--prolly cause I can't recall reading anyone bracing their swingarm only.

Dude, after reading your plans, I think a wide rear is also in your to-do list. With a stock arm and wheel, the widest you can go is a 170, which does provided a wider profile, but it really needs to be a bit wider to really look bad ass.

For me my plan is to get a notched swing arm and while I was at to get it braced--in contrast to the getting it braced and notching it while I was at it. This statement should reveal my driving style.

You guys are getting way too far ahead of me and my budget. I am only going to make small changes. Speaking of small changes my grips are coke can diameter. Pisses me off to no end, but I cant see a way to take them off, they should slide off but I wonder if there is another way they are attached. Going to have to buy some regular grips soon.
 
Spring question. I went and pulled one of my springs to see whats in the bike. Its exactly 15" tall, has some progressive and is fairly thick. However it did not look like anyone cut down the preload. What springs do I have?

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That looks like a Stock Spring.
See the attached Pic for Stock (old) vs Progressive (new) comparison.
Notice how much thicker and tighter the coils are on the Progressive.
Also the Progressive Springs relace the Stock Meatl spacer with a PVC Spacer.
 

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That looks like a Stock Spring.
See the attached Pic for Stock (old) vs Progressive (new) comparison.
Notice how much thicker and tighter the coils are on the Progressive.
Also the Progressive Springs relace the Stock Meatl spacer with a PVC Spacer.

Yes it does look like the stock spring. However I noticed that Sean simply cuts the stock spacer in his Fork video.
 
To remove your grips, try some compressed air & a steel brake line w/one fitting cut-off screwed into your air nozzle w/the brake line having to go between the grip & the sleeve on the throttle, & the grip & the handlebar on the left. A bit of WD40 or CRC will help break the bond, and those stubborn puppies should slide right-off.
 
To remove your grips, try some compressed air & a steel brake line w/one fitting cut-off screwed into your air nozzle w/the brake line having to go between the grip & the sleeve on the throttle, & the grip & the handlebar on the left. A bit of WD40 or CRC will help break the bond, and those stubborn puppies should slide right-off.

That works great for gel style grips- these are solid plastic. they dont flex.....
 
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