New style R/R!

[Bill Seward]

I just checked Amazon.com... There is one of the new style OEM units with the separate ground wire left there. About 64.00 with shipping... Just a heads up in case anyone wants one..

 

[sdt354]

Dave, are you seeing this? That's a good deal and an upgrade for early Gen 1's. Amazon sells just about everything now.
Steve-o

 

[bumper]

I just checked Amazon.com... There is one of the new style OEM units with the separate ground wire left there. About 64.00 with shipping... Just a heads up in case anyone wants one..

Not anymore ....LOL

 

[Dgill82]

I just got one there about a week ago

 

[Bill Seward]

Still a couple on there, different sellers, and prices..

 

[one2dmax]

I have sold a number of these this last week and have the last one on hand (I have others on backorder). I get $75 plus shipping and can include the needed longer bolts.

 

[davesax36]

So what happens with the extra wire when putting a newer R/R on an older harness?

 

[CaptainKyle]

So what happens with the extra wire when putting a newer R/R on an older harness?

I run the new RR wires direct to the battery . I use a 30 amp fuse on the + side .

 

[Bill Seward]

The direct to battery wiring will get almost one volt more to the battery, because the current doesn't have to go through the wiring harness. Solder all connections, and you'll be good to go.

 

[davesax36]

The red one looks just like the one on my '01. I picked up some 12ga wire today to attach the black directly to the battery.

Does the orientation of the three white wires matter? They'd all been clipped and space connected into the factory male side of the harness.

 

[one2dmax]

The three white wires do not matter the orientation. They are the 3 phase AC current wires from the stator to the regulator (typically white). The regulator converts to DC current and regulates the "flow and voltage"

 

[davesax36]

Cool. Thanks

 

[sdt354]

If you mean from the stator? They can go in any order.

 

[HyperPete]

I was advised to purchase a R/R from an R1. I did, and now I am faced with this. (see below.) Do I return it and get an OEM R/R, or do I cut off the wires from the old one and use spade connectors (female) to connect to the R1 unit?

If the latter, how do I know which wire goes where?

Lastly, can I use the new stator with the old R/R (see if it's any good) or could I damage my new stator with a defective / old R/R? I was hoping to ride to work tomorrow, but I'll wait if I could damage the new stator.

Thanks!

 

[Redbone]

Get in touch with Gannon (88vmx12) for a connector like the "generic 5 pin connector" in the link.
The 3 top wires on the connector go to the Stator (white wires) and the bottom two are for "+" and "-" connections.
I just some checking and found this on the R1 forums. Please keep scrolling right past the guy that posted about putting a computer fan on top of the r/r.
With the r/r oriented so that the fins are facing up, the 3 white wires will be on the bottom, the ground (black) will be on the right and the positive (red) will be on the left on a 5 pin connector.

 

[HyperPete]

Ah, thank you! You've saved the day!

I won't get it done tonight, but I can surely get it done now!

 

[Redbone]

Ah, thank you! You've saved the day!

I won't get it done tonight, but I can surely get it done now!

Great, I guess you really don't need the connector as you can just put the terminals on the wire and plug into the r/r. Be sure to seal the connections with dielectric grease and shrink wrap/ self amalgamating tape. Apparently these connections are prone to corrosion and shorts.
I'm curious what happened to your stock r/r?

 

[HyperPete]

Well, I was getting zero charging. It was checked out at Thunder and I was advised to replace the stator and the R/R. I'm not certain which is bad, but I ordered both to ensure the problem was resolved.

So, back to my original question about the R/R - is it safe to run the old R/R with the new stator or could I damage the stator if the R/R is bad?

 

[Redbone]

Ah yes, I walked in on the tail end of that tech session. I'd see if replacing the r/r would fix the issue of it not charging before digging into the stator, which is going to be a little more involved. I would also wire the r/r direct to the battery with a 30 amp fuse inline on the "+" wire. Be sure to test the what the charging state is as soon as you get it started. If it is indeed charging at this point keep checking it until the motor gets up to operating temps to test that it's charging while/ when the stator is hot.

 

[HyperPete]

Well, I have already replaced the stator. I guess I'll hold on to the old one for now.

So it's safe to run the new stator with the old regulator / rectifier? If so I can determine if the old R/R was bad.

EDIT: Also, I presume that the only wires I need to connect to the original wiring will be the (3) Stator wires; the Hot and the ground are better connected directly to the battery?