Newbie

[SimonH]

Hi

New owner from Worcester/Gloucester UK

Having never even heard of the V max 2 weeks ago, I now own an '89 as my first bike.

-Simon

 

[marsmax85]

NIce bike and welcome to the vmax community !!

 

[CaptainKyle]

Welcome

 

[Fire-medic]

Looks very-clean!

Info for you:
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/new-vmax-owner-faqs-new-members-please-read.21240/
http://vmoa.net/VMX12-Service-Manual01.pdf I suggest printing out a copy for a binder at your workstation, and saving it on the computer. The first 64 pp. are year-by-year supplements to the factory service manual, which starts at p. 65. Be sure to read the appendix, much info there. Screw sizes, torque values, cable and hose routing, systems i.d., and much-more.

Use the upper right-hand search function to get info on something you want to know more about, as-in 'how do I fix ____________________?' Probably anything you encounter has been written up on here before.

Your bike has the 'early' ignition system (1985-'89). It has two pick-up coils and 5 wires from them.



You also have the 1985-'92 front end, w/40mm downtubes/sliders/triple trees, and the single pair opposed piston front brakes with 282mm rotors.

The 1993-2007 has 43mm downtubes/sliders/triple trees, and the two opposed pair, 4 piston front brakes with 298mm rotors.

I suggest you look at the front brake pads and see what compound they are, it's probably inked on the back. HH pads are 'the good ones.'

Here is the USA & Canada wire diagram, yours if you have a U.K. model may be slightly different, but this should be a good starting point. Note there is overlap between them.




These fellows are going to cause you much wallet-pain!
http://www.exactrep.com/acatalog/1985_-_2007_Yamaha_V-Max_1200_Parts.html
They're probably an hour travel-time from you, so well-worth the trip.

 

[D Larson]

Hi

New owner from Worcester/Gloucester

Having never even heard of the V max 2 weeks ago, I now own an '89 as my first bike.

-Simon

View attachment 85270

Does the cat ride?

 

[SimonH]

You sir are a Hero, thank you very much!

This is what I love about older vehicles, the homework has already been done and the common faults found out and there's always a good hearted community behind the scenes.

The usual hot start niggle is the only issue so far, to which I've saved some topics discussions regarding a fix/upgrade going forward.

Thanks again !

 

[SimonH]

Does the cat ride?

He does not sadly,

I put him in the hot seat but he quickly left, it was near dinner time though ill admit

 

[Fire-medic]

Assuming you have a decent battery (have it load-tested if you are in-doubt) then I'd clean all grounds in the starting system, and to the engine case by the oil filler, shiny-bright, and with a dollop of dielectric grease to forestall any future corrosion.

The 'crimp fix' is a no-cost way to improve your electrical system, a bit of solder on a brass crimped sleeve buried in the wire harness under the seat. Be sure to re-wrap the exposed wires sufficiently.




You also have an 'early' regulator/rectifier, if you need to replace it, a MOSFET type is a better replacement. Don't buy some no-name off ebay, buy a good name brand one. Replacement will probably entail a bit of rewiring, but they are going to provide you with better electrical function, and the job is not very-involved. Another good one to search-for threads on the subject.

If you have a 'can-of rocks' sound upon initial start-up, that is a good one to tackle ASAP. The usual fix is a new starter clutch, and pulling the flywheel can be a daunting debacle without the proper tool. Early bikes have a 2-pole starter motor, later bikes have a 4-pole starter motor, the 4-pole is a good upgrade, and fits directly where the 2-pole did.

 

[SimonH]

Assuming you have a decent battery (have it load-tested if you are in-doubt) then I'd clean all grounds in the starting system, and to the engine case by the oil filler, shiny-bright, and with a dollop of dielectric grease to forestall any future corrosion.

The 'crimp fix' is a no-cost way to improve your electrical system, a bit of solder on a brass crimped sleeve buried in the wire harness under the seat. Be sure to re-wrap the exposed wires sufficiently.

View attachment 85278View attachment 85277


You also have an 'early' regulator/rectifier, if you need to replace it, a MOSFET type is a better replacement. Don't buy some no-name off ebay, buy a good name brand one. Replacement will probably entail a bit of rewiring, but they are going to provide you with better electrical function, and the job is not very-involved. Another good one to search-for threads on the subject.

If you have a 'can-of rocks' sound upon initial start-up, that is a good one to tackle ASAP. The usual fix is a new starter clutch, and pulling the flywheel can be a daunting debacle without the proper tool. Early bikes have a 2-pole starter motor, later bikes have a 4-pole starter motor, the 4-pole is a good upgrade, and fits directly where the 2-pole did.

That's perfect thank you!

Will definitely get these upgrades done over the next few weeks

 

[VMAXer]

Welcome, Simon. Nice looking bike, congrats and have fun!

 

[SimonH]

Assuming you have a decent battery (have it load-tested if you are in-doubt) then I'd clean all grounds in the starting system, and to the engine case by the oil filler, shiny-bright, and with a dollop of dielectric grease to forestall any future corrosion.

The 'crimp fix' is a no-cost way to improve your electrical system, a bit of solder on a brass crimped sleeve buried in the wire harness under the seat. Be sure to re-wrap the exposed wires sufficiently.

View attachment 85278View attachment 85277


You also have an 'early' regulator/rectifier, if you need to replace it, a MOSFET type is a better replacement. Don't buy some no-name off ebay, buy a good name brand one. Replacement will probably entail a bit of rewiring, but they are going to provide you with better electrical function, and the job is not very-involved. Another good one to search-for threads on the subject.

If you have a 'can-of rocks' sound upon initial start-up, that is a good one to tackle ASAP. The usual fix is a new starter clutch, and pulling the flywheel can be a daunting debacle without the proper tool. Early bikes have a 2-pole starter motor, later bikes have a 4-pole starter motor, the 4-pole is a good upgrade, and fits directly where the 2-pole did.

Cleaned main earth, battery terminals and ran the RR positive straight to battery (with a 30A inline) and 14-14.5 constant now showing, with hot start no longer an issue

Thanks for the info

 

[Fire-medic]

Cleaned main earth, battery terminals and ran the RR positive straight to battery (with a 30A inline) and 14-14.5 constant now showing, with hot start no longer an issue

Thanks for the info

Yes, any time you run a line with that much amperage it is a good idea to fuse it.

Check your crimp connection, if it hasn't been soldered, measure before soldering and after soldering, and I bet you increase things 1-1.5 volts to the battery.

 

[SimonH]

Yes, any time you run a line with that much amperage it is a good idea to fuse it.

Check your crimp connection, if it hasn't been soldered, measure before soldering and after soldering, and I bet you increase things 1-1.5 volts to the battery.

Yes, any time you run a line with that much amperage it is a good idea to fuse it.

Check your crimp connection, if it hasn't been soldered, measure before soldering and after soldering, and I bet you increase things 1-1.5 volts to the battery.

For an 89' i was blown away how clean and well persevered the crimp actually was.

Soldered and recovered anyway