non CBR Brake/Turn Signal Combo

[billy1ear]

I did the CBR conversion on my last VMAX and I needed the turn signals and brake light combined on my second gen 1.
The CBR is a nice solution but I had to find someone to weld up the inner fender for the setup I did.
I wanted something this time that I didn't have to weld and this is what I ended up with..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TTDTNI/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.motodynamic.com/misc/load-resistor-inline-cement-type-price-for-each.html

Was fairly cheap. Bought another one with clear lenses as I think it will be brighter. The license plate lights are too bright and I will tone them down with some black paint on the lenses for that.

 

[sdt354]

I did the CBR conversion on my last VMAX and I needed the turn signals and brake light combined on my second gen 1.
The CBR is a nice solution but I had to find someone to weld up the inner fender for the setup I did.
I wanted something this time that I didn't have to weld and this is what I ended up with..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TTDTNI/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.motodynamic.com/misc/load-resistor-inline-cement-type-price-for-each.html

Was fairly cheap. Bought another one with clear lenses as I think it will be brighter. The license plate lights are too bright and I will tone them down with some black paint on the lenses for that.

When I did the CBR, I cut the inner fender back and siliconed the light to my fender.
It's been a few years and been over some rough roads too. Still tight as it was on install.

 

[billy1ear]

Yeah, thanks for the info. I saw that one and the one where the original poster cut and bent the inner to give him a place to mount the CBR taillight studs. For some reason that I can't explain I didn't want to do those. Am already done with this for the most part and it seems to be ok. Pictures are a little dark, may take a couple more in the light so the details show up a little better.

 

[one2dmax]

Here's another version we offer

 

[billy1ear]

Final setup

 

[2WHEELFREAK]

Do either of these shown require modification or are they a direct replacement/bolt-in not requiring any mods? What about the wiring? Plug n play or need connector ends more work out of the box? Let me know, I am interested in both setups shown here. Thanks.

 

[Bill Seward]

I bought that cheesy LED cat eye light a few years ago. The LED board was garbage, so I modded it with a 1157 socket and a dual filament bulb. Works fine, and looks good. I just ordered a LED 1157 bulb. 50 LEDs on it. I'm gonna install it into the bulb socket to see how it works. These bulbs were $5.00 for two of them. I'll update with how they work when I get them in a few days. I'll also add a shot of a LED voltage indicator I ordered to replace the digital voltmeter I had on the bike. It cost a bit more than $12.00. Got one on the Roadstar, it works great. I wire it to the hot side of the front brake light switch, and ground. With all the charging issues the older Maxes have, I feel a voltmeter of some sort is an absolute necessity. It saved me a push home last year when the 25 year old stator pooped out. Voltage dropped to 11, turn around get home before the bike died..

 

[Bill Seward]

The 1157 LED bulbs..

 

[sdt354]

I bought that cheesy LED cat eye light a few years ago. The LED board was garbage, so I modded it with a 1157 socket and a dual filament bulb. Works fine, and looks good. I just ordered a LED 1157 bulb. 50 LEDs on it. I'm gonna install it into the bulb socket to see how it works. These bulbs were $5.00 for two of them. I'll update with how they work when I get them in a few days. I'll also add a shot of a LED voltage indicator I ordered to replace the digital voltmeter I had on the bike. It cost a bit more than $12.00. Got one on the Roadstar, it works great. I wire it to the hot side of the front brake light switch, and ground. With all the charging issues the older Maxes have, I feel a voltmeter of some sort is an absolute necessity. It saved me a push home last year when the 25 year old stator pooped out. Voltage dropped to 11, turn around get home before the bike died..

+1 on a voltage indicator. I had a few hours to think about what I'd get while waiting for a tow off the interstate last summer. My own stator also fried. I'm going with a single light. It changes color if charging stops or over charging begins. With the battery I have now, I can go a few miles to get to safety,hopefully.

 

[93max]

I did the non cbr brake/signal tail light.
Not under the fender tho.
Cleans the back fender up to me.
Super bright even during the day! It's even made in Nj! :biglaugh:

 

[Bill Seward]

I've seen the single LED indicators. I like them and almost went that way with an indicator. I've got one of the pictured ones on the Roadstar. It works good, seems accurate,and was inexpensive. I'm gonna fasten the meter to the handlebar clamp casting. I'll run the power wire to the front brake light switch. There, it turns off with ignition and won't drain battery down. I understand that powering it by a heavily loaded wire, like a headlight, will result in a low reading. I've got my digital meter powered by the light now, and it reads about 1 volt lower that when its hooked up direct to battery.

 

[billy1ear]

Do either of these shown require modification or are they a direct replacement/bolt-in not requiring any mods? What about the wiring? Plug n play or need connector ends more work out of the box? Let me know, I am interested in both setups shown here. Thanks.

Had to hack the wiring and add a resistor ballast. Also had to cut off the back of the 2 housings where the bulbs would go (you can get an led or bulb version). Had to bend the bracket, so no it is not plug and play.

The guy that said it was cheap stuff is right. Also it is not watertight. Had to glue and silicone the places where water would get in.

But it looks pretty good and works well.

 

[Bill Seward]

The voltmeter and bulb is installed. I mounted the meter to the handlebar clamp with the included 3M sticky tape, and ran wires to a switched fuse, and battery ground. It works fine, and is accurate when compared to a voltmeter attached right to the battery.

The 1157 LED bulb took a bit of modifying of the socket. I managed to mount the socket so the bulb went straight in, centered behind the cateye lens. This bulbs emitters on the end of the thing emit very bright brake lighting, so facing the top of the bulb out, and centered behind the lens gives a very bright brake, and tail light, with great definition between intensity of brake and tail light functions.

I got 2 bulbs, the other one is doing a good job in the Roadstar.