speedcostsmoney
Well-Known Member
oops forgot mixture screws set at 2 1/2 turns out, if your mixture screws are at 3 turns and higher your mainjet is too small hint hint
187 ft above sea level
main jet 185 dynojet - 172.5 mikuni
stage 7 needle 4th from square end
stage 7 springs
slides drilled
PAJ 1 & 2 stock
no air correctors
k & n indepedent air filters
2 inch copper velocity stack with X- WING inside copper pipe
v-boost stock
185 km or 114 miles then the little RED LIGHT goes on
stage 7 needle on clip 5 do 130 km only before red light but damn the bike pulls arms off
185 main jet a little rich top end dropped to 180 gonna see how it goes
UFO 4 INTO 2 EXHAUST 12" CANISTERS 2 1/2" HOLE
Interesting set up.....I'd say 185 rich,awesome you get that kind of mileage with that jet and needle position......cool unk:
So you gonna run 180 with needle on clip 5 from blunt/ square end.....can't wait to hear your fuel mileage then. Are you taking it real easy to get that kinda numbers...
Remind me if we go for a cruise not to wait til you fuel up haha I will be for sure on side of the road. Red light on about 170 km but that's cruising at 122-125 kph
oops forgot mixture screws set at 2 1/2 turns out, if your mixture screws are at 3 turns and higher your mainjet is too small hint hint
Remember to synchronize the carbs each time you plop the rack back on. First pick out the proper main jets, then focus on the needles, and finalize the effort with AFR adjustments. note that tuning is based on throttle position not motor rpms.
VMax Outlaw's CV Carb Tuning Steps
Ian Williams' Mikuni Motorcycle Carburetor Theory 101
Tuning Your Carburetor For Optimal Performance And Fuel Efficiency
MAC Tuning Guide
The everything on carbs bible!
Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
That is an awesome article Rusty I'll be honest though I'd have never got my bike tuned if I wouldn't have installed my wideband... Tried throttle chopping it and couldn't get a handle on it and I've had quite a bit of experience reading plugs but I thought they looked good but the bike wasn't running what I thought it should... As soon as the wideband was on there I realized that I was pig rich, went back to stock jetting and even that was rich but closer and the bike responded by going almost 2 tenths faster at the track... Not saying everyone should run out and buy a wideband (I knew I was gonna be spraying so I needed it anyways) but it sure made my bike easier to tune...
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
Right on Scott, and I agree with the wideband, as much as I "thought" I learned from past experience and all the literature and articles I've read I don't think I'd be there yet without the aid of the wideband.
So much of tuning guidelines rely on "Subjective" judgements of what it "Feels" like that even with all the info in the world it's tough for anyone but a real pro that's done a lot of it to make corrections based on subjective observations...
Some of the other articles that go into what effects and WHERE in the throttle opening the float level has it's effects are especially handy....From what I've gleaned float level is not so much about whether the bowl runs dry or not, it's about how the level effects head pressure and the amount of effort required to draw fuel from the carb, thereby affecting a/f mixture, mostly at off idle, cruise, and when "whacking the throttle" from a cruise position"
I have yet to find a white paper on our particular carbs that clearly explain the relationship of what ours do with PAJ 1 & 2, most seem to refer to just one PAJ jet.
Between Mark, Sean and a few others on here, plus a lot of experimentation I think I almost understand those now.....maybe......
One thing to watch out for is that a lot of articles don't make it super clear that they are talking about Non CV carbs, (flat slides) like are found on many dirt bikes...gotta read, read, read, and then try to apply itunk:
180 main jet dynojet too rich, OOPS forgot to mention got somesecondary jets installed on the side of the air filters, DIAL A JET from THUNDERPRODUCTS.COM. when started the stage 7 tuning the main was too small because of the exhausts would pull too much so went up to 185 dynojet, but now with the secondary jets too rich mid and top end but the bike runs ok . gonna buy me some 160 MIKUNI jets, drop them in and go for a road test. on cold morning runs the secondary jet really helps, choke 30 seconds then punch the throttle on take off no problems, but just a stage 7 i really have to warm up the engine or else the vmax does not like WOT on launch
150-250 asl
kerker 4-1
stg 7
needles 3rd from blunt
2 1/4 turns out
160dj
cop's, air correctors, k&n individual filters, slightly raised up with rubber stacks
slides drilled
39-43mpg highway at 75 mph
unk:unk:
dropped in the 160 mikuni main jets, dial a jet at medium setting, running a little lean at 8000 rpm , still got a little tweaking but getting close. gonna make the the dial a jet richer got two more settings richer, without touching the carbs
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