Oil leak in one airbox pod

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kozy

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So I'm trying to determine the cause of oil that leaks down the left side of my engine. I managed to locate the source (pic attached) but don't really know what could be causing this. The rubber pods, if that's what they are called, are brand new so I know that's not the culprit. I have tried cleaning and re-tightening this specific one down onto the carb and it still develops this leak. If course, there is oil in the airbox as well. I have a Morley Muscle kit installed as well.

Can anyone help me figure out why/how oil is getting into my airbox and making its way out that one boot???

EDIT: Part of me thinks the Morley kit is the cause. The hose going from the plastic "T" down to the crankcase (not the hose to the oil filler cap) looks kinked.
 

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I'm assuming that it is from around the inlet trumpet that sticks up into the air box?
It will be from oil that has come up through the breather and hasn't been recirculated into the carbs.

Two possible causes:
I) Motor has been over filled with oil
ii) Excessive blow-by which is pressurising the crankcase and forcing oil up through the breather.
 
Definitely not over-filled with oil, sight glass reads half. Blow-by could be possible.

That's the least of my worries now though. Cleaned it all up and tried taking it out for a ride. The only way the bike stays running is if I keep the revs at/above 4k if I'm sitting still. When moving, it sounds extremely starved for gas but when I go WOT it acts perfectly normal.
 
I did the Peashooter over the weekend and it seems to have helped ever so slightly but not enough. Wanted to do the shotgun but couldn't get the covers off of the slides. The screws all seem frozen and are only stripping when I try to break them loose. FML.
 
Use a pair of small vise grip pliers to lock tightly on the screws and they will break loose.........
 
Use a pair of small vise grip pliers to lock tightly on the screws and they will break loose.........

I agree w/Joe, I suggest the 10" straight-jaw Vise-Grips. You can get them all loose w/a pair of those.

I also use a Dremel cut-off blade/mandrel to cut a slot, and then use a properly-sized straight-blade screwdriver, preferably one w/a longer handle, for more grip. I stay-away from any impact drivers and hammers on a carb body because they can break the casting. I have had good luck if the screw heads haven't been wallowed-out, using an impact driver and a new Phillips tip, to be able to tightly-fit the screwhead, and then the fat body of the impact driver allows enough torque to loosen them.

You can also back-up the underside of the carb body where the screw exits, and use a ball-pein hammer on the head, to gently persuade a frozen screw to loosen its bond, before using the correctly-fitted Phillips-tip appliance to loosen it.

One of those methods will work.
 
Do you still have the oil seperator at the bottom of the airbox? This should collect oil mist and return it to the crankcase, vapour and blow-by continue on and are drawn into the intake trumpets

attachment.php
 
I did the Peashooter over the weekend and it seems to have helped ever so slightly but not enough. Wanted to do the shotgun but couldn't get the covers off of the slides. The screws all seem frozen and are only stripping when I try to break them loose. FML.[/QUOT

+2 to all above. Another method I've used, once the head is totally fubar, is to heat the thread boss's with a little pencil torch. Then take a very small chisel and drive it into the edge of the screw and knock the screw ccw till loose.
Steve-o
 
Do you still have the oil seperator at the bottom of the airbox? This should collect oil mist and return it to the crankcase, vapour and blow-by continue on and are drawn into the intake trumpets

Yea I still have the separator in my airbox. Thankfully though, my airbox looks a LOT better than the picture you posted. That looks nasty!
 

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