Plugging air hole on 85 fork tube.

[rebar]

I dont have a tig welder and not sure if I have the skill to fill the hole without the metal sticking out then needing grinding.

Would a dab of JB weld be enough to seal off the air hole?

Thanks

 

[Buster Hymen]

Yes I know others have used that and it works but it is permanent. Another solution is to use a bolt.

 

[85vmax]

Use the jb weld, I welded mine and grinder, and it still leaks some if the hole isn't facing forward......i am eventually going to put a dab of jb on it, when i have the forks off, but it has stopped leaking.

 

[hubeerjw]

Bring it on down... I have a small tig! It is yours to use if you want...

I just moved to Wellman and now have a nice new shed/shop!

We are having Huber boy #2 tomorrow, so you better give me until the weekend

Another option may be to swap forks with me. I have a nice set w/ brand new seals with the air holes already welded.

Jeff

 

[gamorg02]

We are having Huber boy #2 tomorrow, so you better give me until the weekend

haha on a side note congrats!

 

[85vmax]

We are having Huber boy #2 tomorrow, so you better give me until the weekend

Jeff

Congrat from here also...I had my #2 son 6 weeks ago.......riding time has been cut down dramatically:bang head:

 

[sdt354]

Is the idea of blocking the air hole to ditch the air set-up and get the forks up the tree's a ways? Has that been done on early forks? Are newer forks vented? I always seem to have some pressure in mine after a while and use the shrader valve to let it out.
Steve

 

[Diablotin]

I was just wondering if silicon won't do the trick?
I don't put air anymore and I thought about dropping the tree an inch since I'm using progressive springs and ricor valves.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

[naughtyG]

I was just wondering if silicon won't do the trick?
I don't put air anymore and I thought about dropping the tree an inch since I'm using progressive springs and ricor valves.

I don't think so, because there's still a buildup of pressure when the forks compress, so it would most probably pop the silicon out and piss oil..:confused2:

 

[one2dmax]

I don't think so, because there's still a buildup of pressure when the forks compress, so it would most probably pop the silicon out and piss oil..:confused2:

Exactly. Been there before.

 

[rebar]

Bring it on down... I have a small tig! It is yours to use if you want...

I just moved to Wellman and now have a nice new shed/shop!

We are having Huber boy #2 tomorrow, so you better give me until the weekend

Another option may be to swap forks with me. I have a nice set w/ brand new seals with the air holes already welded.

Jeff

Congrats! Wellman's a bit closer..

Reason I'm not wanting tig is I dont want to grind any chrome off. But Id like to check out those forks and your new pad.. I have new seals for my forks but need to get these holes sealed before anything.

 

[hubeerjw]

Congrats! Wellman's a bit closer..

Reason I'm not wanting tig is I dont want to grind any chrome off. But Id like to check out those forks and your new pad.. I have new seals for my forks but need to get these holes sealed before anything.

I am NO way a good tig welder and don't know a ton about welding in general. I do have some stainless filler rod and you can check out my forks anytime... very little grinding needed and rust hasn't been a problem.

Baby boy is here and everything went great so we should be home in a day or so. Give me a call this weekend if you want.

Jeff

 

[naughtyG]

Baby boy is here and everything went great so we should be home in a day or so. Give me a call this weekend if you want.

Jeff

Congrats! Another Vmaxxer in the making :clapping::clapping::clapping:

 

[PATMAX]

Rebar, I'm unsure if I posted my fix in another thread but I too wanted a remedy. I found that an appropriately sized set screw with a speck of sealant for good measure was quick, simple, neat and reversable. I had the set screws on hand from my model plane supplies. I did not pre-tap the hole and if I do it again, I will use a drop of CA glue to lock it in place and seal it.

 

[rebar]

Rebar, I'm unsure if I posted my fix in another thread but I too wanted a remedy. I found that an appropriately sized set screw with a speck of sealant for good measure was quick, simple, neat and reversable. I had the set screws on hand from my model plane supplies. I did not pre-tap the hole and if I do it again, I will use a drop of CA glue to lock it in place and seal it.

I dug through my RC stuff and found a few 4-40 set screws. The factory hole was the correct size for the tap!:eusa_dance:

Iv got some JB weld, but I was thinking red locktite so its reversible.

 

[PATMAX]

Yep, someone should make that a sticky! It is sper easy and quick and date I say , foolproof? Glad to be of help

 

[ridinnoshiftin]

What was the length of the 4-40 sets screws that you used? I would think Vibra-Tite or plumbers pipe dope for sealing natural gas lines would work equally well for sealing it up. A set screw with a ny-loc if you are worried about it backing out is also an option. The Vibra-Tite will take care of both issues though in one step! The product is Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate. This is a thicker product than the loctites we all use. Here is a link to the product.

http://www.vibra-tite.com/files/Vibra-Tite-Line-Card.pdf

Todd

 

[Redbone]

Do they sit flush with the surface so us early forkers would be able to slide the forks up in the triple trees?
Great mod and sticky worthy!

 

[rebar]

Do they sit flush with the surface so us early forkers would be able to slide the forks up in the triple trees?
Great mod and sticky worthy!

The set screws I have are just a touch long but fit flush. I figured they wont interfere with the preload tubing. Not sure yet , but wouldn't need to remove much of the set screw if any. They fit a bit loose. Not like a npt fitting.