Pods? New air box?

[jfeagins]

I have the stage 7 and pods to me its a **** load easier to work on..SHOTGUN ,P SHOOTER IF NEEDED . Well worth it to me ..

That's not what my question was regarding, but is a decent point.

I was referring to Marsmax85's comment regarding ease of removal etc....is all I meant.

 

[ImCannibal]

Okay, I'm bringing this thread back because I finally figured out the electrical nightmare part of my rebuild, so now I want to go with a basic pod setup. I don't care if I lose a few hp, but what pieces will I need for just filters and breather. Also what would I do with those breather lines that normally screw onto the top of the air box? And what to do with the hose that normally sits at the rear of the air box?

 

[thor_eyerdhal]

You need air restrictors too with pods.
No vacuum lines on top of the air box, they are breather lines coming from fuel bowls.
You have to install a catch can on the rear lower hose and recycling tubes towards the pods...
It will be easier to re install a stock airbox

 

[Fire-medic]

This may help: http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/4716.pdf

 

[ImCannibal]

Not to be a dick, but neither of you posted anything useful...

 

[Traumahawk]

Not to be a dick, but neither of you posted anything useful...

Ouch....

Sent from my SCH-R890 using Tapatalk

 

[one2dmax]

I think it said exactly what you need. Might need to clarify what those parts are if you don't understand what they told you?

 

[Dragmaxster]

(Also what would I do with those breather lines that normally screw onto the top of the air box?)( And what to do with the hose that normally sits at the rear of the air box?)
You dont have to have them-you can run longer hoses to the bottom of the frame from the outlets and tie them aiming away from the back tire.They are for when you drop the bike the gas will go into the airbox instead of on the motor and ground to prevent a fire.-just dont drop the bike.
The back hose is crankcase breather tube hose- you can do the same with it but if you do not want to pollute the air as much clamp a filter on it.

 

[Fire-medic]

Time for you to figure this out on your own, since you posted a question about how to make the Stage 7 system work (that's what pods are for, and are a part of), that's what pods are run with, and he and I answered questions you had and posted a link to the manufacturer's Stage 7 installation instructions, only to be as-close to being flamed as I've seen in awhile on here.

Yeah, we 'get' you want pods. Pods come with their own requirements. Thor explained about the need for air correctors or you're never going to get the carbs set-up right. I sent you directions which, if you looked at them, tell you about how things change from the stock setup when you mess w/the carbs. Going to 4 pods and keeping the carbs the same is going to result in an unrideable motorcycle.

Dynojet and Sean Morley have their own ideas about induction mods, Sean has a modded airbox top and a set of carb pieces to work w/it, on the stock airbox bottom. Dynojet recommends going to pods, but you can buy their Stage 7 kit w/o them.

"Just Kidding" doesn't work, either.

Sometimes going back to a stock setup will eliminate endless, frustrating useless mods which an owner tries but which just screws-up the thousands of hours of work that went into designing this bike in the first place.

 

[ImCannibal]

(Also what would I do with those breather lines that normally screw onto the top of the air box?)( And what to do with the hose that normally sits at the rear of the air box?)
You dont have to have them-you can run longer hoses to the bottom of the frame from the outlets and tie them aiming away from the back tire.They are for when you drop the bike the gas will go into the airbox instead of on the motor and ground to prevent a fire.-just dont drop the bike.
The back hose is crankcase breather tube hose- you can do the same with it but if you do not want to pollute the air as much clamp a filter on it.

Thank you.

 

[ImCannibal]

Time for you to figure this out on your own, since you posted a question about how to make the Stage 7 system work (that's what pods are for, and are a part of), that's what pods are run with, and he and I answered questions you had and posted a link to the manufacturer's Stage 7 installation instructions, only to be as-close to being flamed as I've seen in awhile on here.

Yeah, we 'get' you want pods. Pods come with their own requirements. Thor explained about the need for air correctors or you're never going to get the carbs set-up right. I sent you directions which, if you looked at them, tell you about how things change from the stock setup when you mess w/the carbs. Going to 4 pods and keeping the carbs the same is going to result in an unrideable motorcycle.

Dynojet and Sean Morley have their own ideas about induction mods, Sean has a modded airbox top and a set of carb pieces to work w/it, on the stock airbox bottom. Dynojet recommends going to pods, but you can buy their Stage 7 kit w/o them.

"Just Kidding" doesn't work, either.

Sometimes going back to a stock setup will eliminate endless, frustrating useless mods which an owner tries but which just screws-up the thousands of hours of work that went into designing this bike in the first place.

I know and understand that most (probably all) of the regulars on this forum know way more than I do about these bikes, there's a high chance I'll never know as much as you guys know right now by the time I die. However, I'm going to pods because I actually hate the factory air box. Saying it was designed in hell just to torture me, would be a low blow to the devil himself. I get that I'll need air correctors, I'll order a set from Sean before I do the install. That link to the stage 7 kit install was written for mechanics (I'm not a mechanic, I'm handy as hell with a soldering iron and a box full of resistors and diodes though). Basically what I'm looking for is barney style instruction with pictures and possibly bright neon arrows labeled in step by step plain English.
I.e.
1. This is a thing, idiot (I'm the idiot), you need to put it in this exact spot, or your bike will explode.
2. This is a different thing, it does stuff, you got it from someone smarter than you, it goes in this exact spot for reasons.
3. This other thing looks like you should mess with it, don't.
Etc etc.

 

[Fire-medic]

There's an easy way to get your airbox mounted and this is how:

Assuming your rubbers are in decent shape, no rips, tears, or cracks which would cause leaks, simply place the assembled airbox above your carbs. Start them onto the carb bellmouths. Now you need to have the bike on the centerstand. Step onto the footpegs and move your position forward until your butt is resting on the airbox lid.

Gently lower your weight onto the airbox lid, and you should feel your airbox pop-into the carb bellmouth rubbers. Climb off and confirm that your airbox is now in-place. You can use some water-soluble gel like KY (yes, that KY) and place a thin film onto the inside of the rubbers and the mating airbox surfaces to help 'mate' the pieces (no pun intended). Remember to replace the KY where you got it from.

This works for me with older rubbers when you cannot seem to get them to fit. Some people say, "boil them in water to soften them up, and quickly place them into position, and press the airbox down." I bet that if you try the persuasion of your butt on top of the lid, you won't need to boil the rubber rings.

I call it the Happy Days Method: "sit on it Potsie!"

 

[ImCannibal]

I appreciate the tip, but the p.o. removed the center stand long before I bought the bike and the rubber boots are hard like steel, I have a feeling I could heat it up and hammer them over an anvil to make the most durable axe ever made.

I genuinely think that using some pods meant for drag-scooter turbo builds (I can get some good ones for pretty cheap from one of the local ruckus guys), and using pvc I already have to build puke tanks, getting some correctors from Sean, and going to a faux stage 7 will save me a lot of headaches later. I can always make some velocity stacks to increase the height if necessary. but in the long run, if I mess up a pod or the rubber gets hard or gives out, just chuck it and get a new one. I won't ever have to boil it to soften it up and pry it apart to replace the rubber. a

 

[Dragmaxster]

The link from boats.net that traumahawk sent has the boots for $13.85 a piece.
You could buy this on Ebay and sell the airbox and clamps. Just a thought to get you some rubbers-cheap- or maybe make a buck while your at it. The clamps are not cheap either.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/J-97-YAMAHA...ING-/401010254275?hash=item5d5e12e1c3&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-YAMAHA-V-MAX-1200-AIR-BOX-/121510006833?hash=item1c4a8f9031&vxp=mtr