powder coating rims

[njspier]

I am thinking about taking off my stock rims on my 85 vmax and powder coating the rims, What i am wondering though is what will I be getting myself into, for example the bearings coming out and other problems any insight into this would be appreciated

 

[one2dmax]

Bearings have to come out but the rear cush drive rubbers can stay in place. They can be a chore on the rear cage bearing but if they are original it may not be a bad idea anyway.

Sean

 

[[email protected]]

If you don't own a blind bearing remover find an auto parts store that loans tools out for free. It makes removing the needle bearing in the rear wheel dead easy.

 

[m-cman]

Autozone loans tools if you have one near you. Just provide a refundable deposit.

 

[AMechEng]

Bearings have to come out but the rear cush drive rubbers can stay in place. They can be a chore on the rear cage bearing but if they are original it may not be a bad idea anyway.

Sean

Those rubber isolators can handle the powder coat oven? If so that will make it much easier.

 

[one2dmax]

Yes, they will survive fine.

 

[Diablotin]

Just cover them to avoid the powder to get inside the holes.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[AMechEng]

How are the bearings removed? I read on one post that they are glued in. I'm not familiar with a blind bearing remover but will that get the bearings out? I'm also trying to get them out of the swing arm. Thanks

 

[[email protected]]

No, they aren't glued in.

I use a long drift punch to remove bearings from the wheels. There is a distance collar in the wheel that pushes against the inner race of the roller bearings. You just push the distance collar off to the side and then use a long drift and punch out the roller bearings. Align the drift onto the inner race of the bearing and smack with a hammer. This works on the front wheel and the right side of the rear wheel.

The needle bearing on the left side of the rear wheel is difficult to get out unless you have the blind bearing remover.

Swingarm bearings will fall right out. The races are what takes effort to remove. I made a tool to remove mine. Basically just a block of steel with a hole in it, a long bolt, then another block of steel that fits inside the arm. Tighten the bolt and they pop right out. You could use the blind bearing remover to get these races out if there is an attachment in the kit with a large enough OD to grab the race.

 

[PATMAX]

Having some powdercoat experience, I learned a few do and don't and some how to's along the way. I took my bearings out of my fronts and rears with this homemade contraption. It's parts I had on hand and it worked so good and easy that I would pull bearings for free for anyone. The pictures show the parts. The jaw things are just two small arms off of a three jaw puller with all the bolts removed. The leverage bar is a piece of metal called "Uni-strut". I feed the two arms inside the bearing's center and placed the leverage bar over the tops of the arms. I slid bolts through the bolt holes of the arms and didn't even secure them with nuts, just slipped in. I used the handle of a wood hammer as the fulcrum point between the delicate aluminum wheel and the leverage bar. It pulls straight up and out by using even pressure. No hammering or jolting, just smooth constant pressure. I did have to readjust the wood fulcrum point once just get more levering action. NOT a scratch! The bearings felt smooth and reuse able but I was replacing mine with a set from CaptainKyle.

When in doubt...Gas it !!!

 

[PATMAX]

Oh, and make sure to tell your coater to tape off the area where the rotors sit. You'll never get the rotors to fit if this area is coated and there is no easy way to clean these areas of coatings unless you are re-stripping the whole wheel. I warned you! Sincerely, School Of Hard Knocks and wasted coating. LOL


When in doubt...Gas it !!!

 

[[email protected]]

Oh, and make sure to tell your coater to tape off the area where the rotors sit. You'll never get the rotors to fit if this area is coated and there is no easy way to clean these areas of coatings unless you are re-stripping the whole wheel. I warned you! Sincerely, School Of Hard Knocks and wasted coating. LOL


When in doubt...Gas it !!!

+1
My coater taped off the rear rotor mount but not the fronts. It was a PIA to get the coating off.

 

[gamorg02]

where in NY are you? i also second doing all the things mentioned above, i've done a few sets of wheels now.

 

[sdt354]

Nothing like a removable hub on a Kosman bolt together. It makes powder coating a lot easier. Some coaters wipe stuff off after they spray it. I haven't mastered that, and like coating hot pieces anyway. +1 to being a bitch to remove.

 

[gamorg02]

use a vaccum and the right amount of adapters to run a needle (like to fill up a basketball) and suck the powder off the part you need. if its a small area.

 

[AMechEng]

I used the Autozone blind bearing puller to get out the bearings in the wheels. Made it REALLY easy and the bearings are no worse for wear. It's free to rent with a $160 deposit. The wheels are at the powder coaters now and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the rubber isolators in the rear wheel will make it through baking.

 

[sdt354]

use a vaccum and the right amount of adapters to run a needle (like to fill up a basketball) and suck the powder off the part you need. if its a small area.

Great idea Garrett,thanks

 

[AMechEng]

I just got the rims back from powder coaters. The isolators made it through baking.

 

[one2dmax]

They survive just fine in coating as well as chroming.

 

[jagco1]

I had my wheels powder painted 3 weeks ago, To remove all my bearings front and rear I used a old 3/8" cement drill bit with a hammer and remove them. I was able to remove them in about 45min. My rubber pushing are in tack no problem with them. Also when I order the rear bearing for the lift side man they kelp sending the wrong 1's had 3 total sent. Through the help of Sean found out for the 1992 vmax the microfiche had the wrong part number listed.