Powder coating rotor carriers?

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Im considering having a set of rotors bead blasted and the carriers powder coated. Im concerned that no matter how careful the prep work is done, some powder is going to end up on the rotor buttons. Would this affect the semi-floating capabilities of my rotors?

BTW, these are gen2 busa rotors, not vmax.

Maybe I will just have them blasted and polish the carriers.

 

[KJShover]

Powder coating is alot like going to the beach. No matter how careful you are, sand is going to end up in your shorts.

Powder will find it's way into the buttons on your rotor. A friend and I spent the better part of the day coating, and fiberglass taping his rotors. He did on and I the other. No way in hell did we think we would get the powder in where the buttons are. Needless to say, we were wrong.

we ended up spending the next several days, with chemical stripper dental instuments, cleaning things up.

If you can take them apart, and rivet them back together yourself, that would simple things up ten fold. But that isn't a cheap venture to have done for you. (thats why we tried to mask the rotors) I'm not saying that it couldn't be done, but it would be wicked hard. It wouldn't be so bad if the powder would stay still like a good paint would, but when heated it turns liquidy and expands a little.

 

[dannymax]

I powdered the rotors on '99, it was expensive and not a perfect job....think I'd just paint them the next time. FWIW

 

[KJShover]

I powdered the rotors on '99, it was expensive and not a perfect job....think I'd just paint them the next time. FWIW

Were they the stockers?

 

[bazwell]

Yeah, you will probably get some powder on the buttons. You might get enough on them to make them stick, and maybe the rotors won't be correctly aligned. Yes, that will impact braking.

Just do exactly the same job but use VHT caliper paint. It takes a bit longer (because you have to wait for it to dry), but then give it a cycle through the oven at about 340' for 20mins. It comes out awesome!

 

[wlodek1980]

use soda instead of glass

 

[dannymax]

Were they the stockers?

Yes they were.

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the input guys. The braking surface needs cleaned up so maybe I will just have them blasted and polish the carriers. Its looking like it will only be a few dollars to have them cleaned up since I've got some other stuff happening at the same time.

 

[gamorg02]

i used regular old krylon on mine and it worked really well. held up good. if i could do it again i'd probalby use the vht caliper.

for other parts i might try using truck bed liner. i've used it on a few things now and its turned out amazing and durable.

 

[sdt354]

I got powder coat on my shift pedal shaft, just a tiny spec. Went to shift the bike, it was locked up like the tranny froze. I recommend soda blast, polish smooth and a good paint job. Help you out if the shippings worth it.
Steve

 

[[email protected]]

i used regular old krylon on mine and it worked really well. held up good. if i could do it again i'd probalby use the vht caliper.

for other parts i might try using truck bed liner. i've used it on a few things now and its turned out amazing and durable.

What brand bed liner have you used?

I need to paint my fuel tank after all the welding. Just never got to it yet. I don't think that I will be able to re-install the plastic shield that goes on the back of the tank so I was contemplating using a brush on bed liner. We have some here at work that has kevlar fiber or something like that in it. But, I believe the paint itself is a latex based polyurethane. I was not too hot on the idea of using a latex base on it.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Mike...

This is how it goes... The Pcoat is a electrostatic powder that is sprayed on the part and then goes to the oven to cure, so far so good, everyone knows that, what much people doesn't know is that for the powder to adhere a small electric charge is applied on the part to create an attraction for the powder (different charge) to adhere. What the pcoater has to do is after spraying the part with the powder remove the charge and clean the parts that one doesn't want to be pcoated. As simple as rubbing your finger or using a Qtip to remove the powder, really easy and saves you from having to scrape the part afterwards risking breaking/peeling the coat on undesired areas... Thats how i do it to clean the bearing housings on rims. No matter how much you tape mask it after going to oven the tape is sticky as hell and its a bastard to be removed without chemicals...

 

[KJShover]

No matter how much you tape mask it after going to oven the tape is sticky as hell and its a bastard to be removed without chemicals...

This is the stuff I used when I was still powdercoating. It sticks great, holds up to the temps brilliantly and it comes off clean.
http://www.eastwood.com/high-temper...le&utm_medium=Merchant-Centre&SRCCODE=1SE0756

 

[bazwell]

Mike...

This is how it goes... The Pcoat is a electrostatic powder that is sprayed on the part and then goes to the oven to cure, so far so good, everyone knows that, what much people doesn't know is that for the powder to adhere a small electric charge is applied on the part to create an attraction for the powder (different charge) to adhere. What the pcoater has to do is after spraying the part with the powder remove the charge and clean the parts that one doesn't want to be pcoated. As simple as rubbing your finger or using a Qtip to remove the powder, really easy and saves you from having to scrape the part afterwards risking breaking/peeling the coat on undesired areas... Thats how i do it to clean the bearing housings on rims. No matter how much you tape mask it after going to oven the tape is sticky as hell and its a bastard to be removed without chemicals...

I don't think they'd be able to get a Qtip in there unless he removes the buttons.
Probably won't be able to get charged particles in that gap either, but if they spray some powder without charge, he might have problems.

 

[wlodek1980]

some time ago I've done this wheel and discs, coated the rivets completely, have had no problems with braking whatsoever

 

[wildweasel_pt]

I don't think they'd be able to get a Qtip in there unless he removes the buttons.
Probably won't be able to get charged particles in that gap either, but if they spray some powder without charge, he might have problems.

All the powder has to be applied with a charge, thats a fact what i said is for the powder to be removed from the unwanted areas the charge has to be removed otherwise the powder won't fall off...

 

[bazwell]

All the powder has to be applied with a charge, thats a fact what i said is for the powder to be removed from the unwanted areas the charge has to be removed otherwise the powder won't fall off...

I'm not disagreeing with you dude. :biglaugh:
You are correct in what you say Fred.

Different people use different methods.

One way to avoid Faraday effect is to shoot the recesses first without charge. The particles just stay wherever they land, so it gets right in cracks and hard to get places. It works even better if you pre-heat the part, because then they won't blow out again. It's wasteful, but it works! It's a technique that fixes lack of experience. I do it all the time! :rofl_200: