haha thanks guys! since the level is measured with just the damper rod in (not the spring, spacer or washer) the only change is the lowering spring on the damper rod. since the fork tube sits in the same place whether its lowered or not, you just have to take into account for the extra damper spring if you want to measure it, if you are putting the same amount of liquid in. the extra damper spring displaces about 1/8 - 3/16 of an oz. i'm not going to worry about it for that specific of an amount. just going to measure my 123mm and be done with it!
Progressive Lowered Fork Oil Level
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tugla
Well-Known Member
ya it will work fine for ya man,do it 
unk:
unk:forgot to respond to this rovic. yea i'd love it if I need it. should find out later today.
its worth what those bearings were, i'll have to refund ur paypal!
tugla
Well-Known Member
no worries man, i got one in the mail coming, if its good you can have the short one.
awesome. thanks man.
finally got this project done. just gotta mount 'em up and torque the top cap to spec.
what a pain in the ass. took two guys to hold the spring down to get the cap to thread on that litte plastic damper rod seat was a royal pain too. and how about keeping that spring in place while dropping the rod in. took forever.
i had to take the oil seals off once when i already had them on. they weren't fully on but i'm hoping that didn't ruin them.
finally got this project done. just gotta mount 'em up and torque the top cap to spec.
what a pain in the ass. took two guys to hold the spring down to get the cap to thread on that litte plastic damper rod seat was a royal pain too. and how about keeping that spring in place while dropping the rod in. took forever.
i had to take the oil seals off once when i already had them on. they weren't fully on but i'm hoping that didn't ruin them.
Progressive Spring Install (Part #11-1144)
Before getting started on my first time spring replacement I wanted to run down what I understand needs to happen; however, also wanted some feedback from the members as to the best practices, short cuts, and other issues that may need to be addressed as well.
In the box: (2) springs, (2) seat washers; (2) 1" SCH 40 PVC spacer's 10" lengths each. Warranty policy and installation instructions; PVC spacer length conversion chart.
Okay folks I just got in my Progressive folk springs (Standard height) for my 07 model Vmax with (10,150) miles on it. I am not experiencing any problems with the OEM at this time; however, wanted to go ahead and upgrade before I do. I understand you can replace the springs without removing the tire and folks by lifting the front wheel off the ground a little > removing the top fork cap> release the air > remove thread top bolt (Being very careful) under pressure, and spring seat washer > reach in with a hanger and pull out OEM spring > install new progressive spring (Close wound coil at the top) > install seat washer > cut the spacer to required height which should be 9.37" for the Vmax (Listed on the conversion chart)
Adding some 10W fork oil to the existing is one quick way to wrap up this install; however, with my current mileage I probably should go ahead and drain all the old fork oil out at the bottom of the forks and buy a couple drain bolt sealing washers and replace with new fork oil which should be 21oz in each tube. However, I heard draining this way does not remove all the oil, so my question is it really necessary to remove wheel and disassembly forks completely, and purchase all the additional seals? If this is the case it sounds more like a time consuming hysterectomy.
Before getting started on my first time spring replacement I wanted to run down what I understand needs to happen; however, also wanted some feedback from the members as to the best practices, short cuts, and other issues that may need to be addressed as well.
In the box: (2) springs, (2) seat washers; (2) 1" SCH 40 PVC spacer's 10" lengths each. Warranty policy and installation instructions; PVC spacer length conversion chart.
Okay folks I just got in my Progressive folk springs (Standard height) for my 07 model Vmax with (10,150) miles on it. I am not experiencing any problems with the OEM at this time; however, wanted to go ahead and upgrade before I do. I understand you can replace the springs without removing the tire and folks by lifting the front wheel off the ground a little > removing the top fork cap> release the air > remove thread top bolt (Being very careful) under pressure, and spring seat washer > reach in with a hanger and pull out OEM spring > install new progressive spring (Close wound coil at the top) > install seat washer > cut the spacer to required height which should be 9.37" for the Vmax (Listed on the conversion chart)
Adding some 10W fork oil to the existing is one quick way to wrap up this install; however, with my current mileage I probably should go ahead and drain all the old fork oil out at the bottom of the forks and buy a couple drain bolt sealing washers and replace with new fork oil which should be 21oz in each tube. However, I heard draining this way does not remove all the oil, so my question is it really necessary to remove wheel and disassembly forks completely, and purchase all the additional seals? If this is the case it sounds more like a time consuming hysterectomy.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
You most definitely do NOT need to disassemble the actual forks or renew the seals unless they are leaking.
However, correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the drain bolt was removed from the later model forks? Anyway, I would recommend to remove the front wheel, tape/attach the brake calipers aside (no need to disconnect hydraulics), remove the fork brace and front fender, then loosen the triple tree bolts to remove one fork tube.
It's *much* easier with it removed. Let the air pressure out (if there's any), and actually loosen the big sunken nut on top before loosening the triple trees - it helps.
Then remove fork tube, unscrew top plug carefully (it will jump out a bit 'cos of the spring and watch out for oil), then you can remove the spacer, and invert the fork tube over a bucket to catch the spring, oil and whatever washer bit pops out (make a note of the order and do one tube at a time).
Then, pop in the progressive spring, put oil in measuring correct amount, add spacer etc and top plug, refit to triple tree and repeat on the other side.
Quick and easy, can't go wrong
However, correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the drain bolt was removed from the later model forks? Anyway, I would recommend to remove the front wheel, tape/attach the brake calipers aside (no need to disconnect hydraulics), remove the fork brace and front fender, then loosen the triple tree bolts to remove one fork tube.
It's *much* easier with it removed. Let the air pressure out (if there's any), and actually loosen the big sunken nut on top before loosening the triple trees - it helps.
Then remove fork tube, unscrew top plug carefully (it will jump out a bit 'cos of the spring and watch out for oil), then you can remove the spacer, and invert the fork tube over a bucket to catch the spring, oil and whatever washer bit pops out (make a note of the order and do one tube at a time).
Then, pop in the progressive spring, put oil in measuring correct amount, add spacer etc and top plug, refit to triple tree and repeat on the other side.
Quick and easy, can't go wrong
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
naughtyG is right.
My 2000 and your 2007 don't actually have a Drain Screw.
I just did this same process (upgrade to Stock Height Progressive Springs) except I had one leaking Fork seal which I did have to replace).
Sadly I stripped the Bolt that screws into the Dampener from the bottom of that Fork and I'm waiting for the replacement Bolt and Copper Washer, so I can reassemble it.
But on the Fork with the Good Fork Seal I did just like he said above.
The only things I would add are:
1. Pump the Fork Slowly in and out when Draining the Oil out the Top.
2. When you add the new Fork Oil, do it without the Spring installed and with the top fork cylinder compressed (not extended) and fill it to 4-3/4" down from the top, be sure to carefully pump it up and down 9 or 10 times to ensure that the Oil gets into the dampener properly, then recheck the level.
3. I cut the PVC Spacer to 9-3/8" with a Pipe Cutter but a Miter Saw or Chop saw would work just as well.
It just needs to be cut Square.
One Finished Fork (with New Progressive Spring and 10 wt Oil Installed) on the Bike Below only took me about 15-20 Minutes including Tire Removal.
EDIT:
Got the Bolt and Copper Washer, I needed to finish, today.
Added Picture of Bike after I finished Installing the Progressive Springs (and New EBC HH Front Brakes Pads since I had the Calipers off already).
My 2000 and your 2007 don't actually have a Drain Screw.
I just did this same process (upgrade to Stock Height Progressive Springs) except I had one leaking Fork seal which I did have to replace).
Sadly I stripped the Bolt that screws into the Dampener from the bottom of that Fork and I'm waiting for the replacement Bolt and Copper Washer, so I can reassemble it.
But on the Fork with the Good Fork Seal I did just like he said above.
The only things I would add are:
1. Pump the Fork Slowly in and out when Draining the Oil out the Top.
2. When you add the new Fork Oil, do it without the Spring installed and with the top fork cylinder compressed (not extended) and fill it to 4-3/4" down from the top, be sure to carefully pump it up and down 9 or 10 times to ensure that the Oil gets into the dampener properly, then recheck the level.
3. I cut the PVC Spacer to 9-3/8" with a Pipe Cutter but a Miter Saw or Chop saw would work just as well.
It just needs to be cut Square.
One Finished Fork (with New Progressive Spring and 10 wt Oil Installed) on the Bike Below only took me about 15-20 Minutes including Tire Removal.
EDIT:
Got the Bolt and Copper Washer, I needed to finish, today.
Added Picture of Bike after I finished Installing the Progressive Springs (and New EBC HH Front Brakes Pads since I had the Calipers off already).
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