Putting down your bike... like a boss.

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I cold bent a mildly tweeked shifter back into a usable shape but it was ugly looking. It was off the bike when I bent it back using a wrench as my bending tool and vise, I only had to bend it about a 1/2".
I'm much more careful going in and out through my brothers basement door now!:bang head:
 
Somtimes I pull the clutch in while making sharp turns, keeping a few engine RPMs up and when I fell comfortable that I am going to be ok in the turn I release the clutch a little to control how much power is need to safely finish the turn. Control the beast with a little clutch slippage.......
 
Somtimes I pull the clutch in while making sharp turns, keeping a few engine RPMs up and when I fell comfortable that I am going to be ok in the turn I release the clutch a little to control how much power is need to safely finish the turn. Control the beast with a little clutch slippage.......

+ 1 and a little rear brake .
 
For a handlebar, wider is better. Try to find one with the stock bend, just wider. Handlebars can be bent back if you want to save money. A long pipe that can slip over the end will give you the leverage needed. Take off the grip and clutch master cylinder first and move the forks up against the stop. (Assuming it is the clutch side since you bent the shifter. If not, just remove the throttle sleeve and brake master cylinder). On the shifter, if you remove it, remove the rubber toe protector, put it in a vise and heat it with a torch or other suitable device and bend it slowly, you should be OK. Without heating, it will probably snap. These fixes I have done countless times in my 53 years of riding. :biglaugh:
lol thanks. I emaield Morley about it and he told gave me some advice on which I might like best so I am trusting his judgment lol
 
Buying a VMax for your first bike, you need all the friends you can get...:rofl_200:We're here for Ya...
 
I would recommend the Superbike bars that Sean carries. They are a compromise between the drag bars and stock ones. You can look at my album to see what they look like. Btw, which state are you in?
 
I would recommend the Superbike bars that Sean carries. They are a compromise between the drag bars and stock ones. You can look at my album to see what they look like. Btw, which state are you in?


Yeah that's what he recommended too.
 
Buying a VMax for your first bike, you need all the friends you can get...:rofl_200:We're here for Ya...


Hey hey... both my buddys ride honda's. One has a 600, the other a 1000.

It is my goal to beat my friend on his 600 lol. (Yes I realize this is an idiotic statement to make in a thread where I announce my ******* grounding my bike lol)
 
Just wanted to post some photos of the outcome. Nothing horribly bad to be completely honest.

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Heat will work but a lot of it. We can straighten that one out no problem. I have stock or aftermarket signals and of course the bars. It's all easier to replace then you are so consider it a life lesson.

Sean
 
The oxy-acetylene torch used to produce a plastic moment in the malleability of the metal, when the steel is orange-incadescent, is the time to re-shape the shifter. A quick quench to re- establish the temper, and it's time to install the toe rubber before the splines touch each other. A bit of torque to the pinch-bolt, & 'Bob's yer uncle!'

A word to the wise: the technique of use of a 'cheater' length of pipe has a couple of drawbacks in my experience. One, no matter how careful you are to eyeball/measure the bent handlebar side-to-side as you exert the increased leverage to force it into shape (called "cold-set"), the bar just never seems 'right' after that. It's always in the back of your head, and you find yourself critically examining the bar's configuration as you sit at a traffic light, or when you touch the opposite steering lock when stationary and then flip the bars to opposite lock, just to compare...
Second, use of too-much force on a casting as the handlebar clamp is asked to perform duty beyond its designed strength, may result in a sudden, sickening giving-way as the casting surrenders to a stress beyond that for which it was never designed, as it fails catastrophically. It is cheaper and safer to buy a bar, they are cheap compared to the alternative. Sean gave you good advice, you should heed it.
 
Glad your ok. The Vmax is easier to ride the faster you go within its limits.
Vmax for the first bike. :ummm: Then again, mine was a H2750 cafe which only came alive after 6K:biglaugh:

I think we all have something in common around here. OCD.. :rofl_200:But dont end up with hardware holding you together like I did.
 
Glad your ok. The Vmax is easier to ride the faster you go within its limits. ( and your own limits )
Vmax for the first bike. :ummm: Then again, mine was a XS 650
I think we all have something in common around here. OCD.. :rofl_200:

We all fall , it's just a matter of when . :punk:
 
Glad to hear your OK! I have ridden bikes since I was 14, and I gotta tell ya that you have some large kahuna's for getting a vmax as a first bike! First time I got on the vmax, it scared the crap outta me, even after all of the years riding experience that I have. Its heavy, powerful, and doesn't like to turn at slower speeds like lighter bikes do. Hang in there and be careful, you will get used to the way the beast drives/handles. Kudos for not giving up!
 
Glad your ok. The Vmax is easier to ride the faster you go within its limits. ( and your own limits )


We all fall , it's just a matter of when . :punk:

I seem to forget.. or ignore that part. One or the other..

I ride to clear my head. because the only thing I can think about is survival.
 
I'm glad you made it with only minor injuries. I've been down a couple of times, and it's no fun. I was lucky and was using decent gear. I came up the ranks from older CB750s then a CB1000, and finally my Vmax. I love it cause it still scares me sometimes. Best bike I've owned yet.
 
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