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BGPKR

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During a ride last week I went to pass a large, slow truck. In doing so, I revved a bit longer than I normally do. It seems like I hit a complete flat spot, almost like a rev limiter. I'm under the assumption that the Vmax doesn't have a one. So my question is, what happened and do I need to be worried about any internal engine damage?
Thanks
 
a occasional blast passed red line be ok but for sure won't like it after doing that lots..one time ok.
think some ignition boxes might have rev limiter ...or u think you went way past 10, 000......where it totally stops pulling?
 
It wasn't a gradual decline in power. It was instantaneous. And I don't think I went that high in the rpm range.
 
Ride it , if its not happy you'll know it. I "over reved " My gen I a few times, you probably just floated the valves. the last time I over reved my gen I and did any damaged I was doing a VERY LONG burn out and I knew it right away. But I knew I'd be getting a Gen II soon , So mable sits in my garage waiting to someday get an upgraded Motor.
 
The Ignitech and the DYNA 3000 both have rev limiters. The Ignitech may be more-versatile if you plan on modding your engine extensively, which means, "bring cash, lots of cash."

Having a rev limiter is a good thing, buy a replacement ignition box just for that-alone, and you will still have a spare or sell it to get some $ towards going with radials, which I consider the #1 best improvement you can make. There are lots of threads about it, and all you need to do is buy two tires and one (rear) wheel, <$1K if you shop for a used wheel in 17" or 18" or research Kosman's modded stock wheel.
 
The Ignitech and the DYNA 3000 both have rev limiters. The Ignitech may be more-versatile if you plan on modding your engine extensively, which means, "bring cash, lots of cash."

Having a rev limiter is a good thing, buy a replacement ignition box just for that-alone, and you will still have a spare or sell it to get some $ towards going with radials, which I consider the #1 best improvement you can make. There are lots of threads about it, and all you need to do is buy two tires and one (rear) wheel, <$1K if you shop for a used wheel in 17" or 18" or research Kosman's modded stock wheel.


An aftermarket ignition is on my short list. I just have to figure out which one is best for me.
 
Like FireMedic said, radials are night and day diff. I just got back from a trip and had my v65 radicalized. The turns are effortless. And everything is wicked smooth.

Re: red line. I've red lined it many times. But now that the carbs are perfect, no flat spots.

Jack
 
I NEVER understood my Yamaha did not put a rev limiter on the Gen I... Just not smart IMO
 
The Ignitech and the DYNA 3000 both have rev limiters. The Ignitech may be more-versatile if you plan on modding your engine extensively, which means, "bring cash, lots of cash."

Having a rev limiter is a good thing, buy a replacement ignition box just for that-alone, and you will still have a spare or sell it to get some $ towards going with radials, which I consider the #1 best improvement you can make. There are lots of threads about it, and all you need to do is buy two tires and one (rear) wheel, <$1K if you shop for a used wheel in 17" or 18" or research Kosman's modded stock wheel.


Pardon my ignorance but "Radial tires" won't mount to the standard rims ?
My Max wears a mismatched set of Dunlops; "Elite 2 on the back and a Dunlop "Qualifier" on the front. The front end profile reminds me of a racing tire and sure wants to tip in easily in turns whereas the rear is very stable and grips the road. The net result is a nervous feeling in long fast sweeping curves but over fast inputs on tight curves it's even worse. It's like the front controls the rear. I know this bike was never built to handle like my bikes of the past but surely there has to a better compromise ? As an aside; My rear tire is less than 1000 miles abused but the front is getting low.
All inputs welcome as always.

Cheers guys !


Chris.
 
You can get RADIALS for the front size, 110, 80, 18. But to the best of my knowledge there is no radio available for the stock 15 incher in the back. I would love to find out differently though.

I think that the tires you have on our okay. Certainly not cheap, but In the bias ply or bias belted you can get much much better ones. Shinko is great. Hooks up better than Maxine on payday. MetZler 880s Are what I have on right now.
If you upgrade your suspension then it will lock and rock all day.
But If you find the tires that are best suited for you then it will make a big difference.
Hope this helps. I hope you never concede to the myth that the Vmax is a power rocket on the straight line but a slouch in sport manners. Just wrong.

Jack
 
Pardon my ignorance but "Radial tires" won't mount to the standard rims ?
My Max wears a mismatched set of Dunlops; "Elite 2 on the back and a Dunlop "Qualifier" on the front. The front end profile reminds me of a racing tire and sure wants to tip in easily in turns whereas the rear is very stable and grips the road. The net result is a nervous feeling in long fast sweeping curves but over fast inputs on tight curves it's even worse. It's like the front controls the rear. I know this bike was never built to handle like my bikes of the past but surely there has to a better compromise ? As an aside; My rear tire is less than 1000 miles abused but the front is getting low.
All inputs welcome as always.

Cheers guys !
Chris.

The Dunlop Qualifier is about as grippy as a piece of soap - get rid of it if you can. Also when worn they get a lot worse.

The grippiest OEM size front (also cheapest) is the Shinko T230 Tourmaster - many here use it.
A better quality (and pricier) tire is the Metzeler ME880, but it's harder so less grip but also less wear, and it's not V-rated.
 
Pardon my ignorance but "Radial tires" won't mount to the standard rims ?
My Max wears a mismatched set of Dunlops; "Elite 2 on the back and a Dunlop "Qualifier" on the front. The front end profile reminds me of a racing tire and sure wants to tip in easily in turns whereas the rear is very stable and grips the road. The net result is a nervous feeling in long fast sweeping curves but over fast inputs on tight curves it's even worse. It's like the front controls the rear. I know this bike was never built to handle like my bikes of the past but surely there has to a better compromise ? As an aside; My rear tire is less than 1000 miles abused but the front is getting low.
All inputs welcome as always.

Cheers guys !


Chris.

I run the Shinko 230 tourmasters. Stock size in the front, and 170/80-15. Really sticky, cheap, and the 170 tire has no fitment issues. (Atleast on my bike, and several others on here)
 
The Ignitech and the DYNA 3000 both have rev limiters. The Ignitech may be more-versatile if you plan on modding your engine extensively, which means, "bring cash, lots of cash."

Having a rev limiter is a good thing, buy a replacement ignition box just for that-alone, and you will still have a spare or sell it to get some $ towards going with radials, which I consider the #1 best improvement you can make. There are lots of threads about it, and all you need to do is buy two tires and one (rear) wheel, <$1K if you shop for a used wheel in 17" or 18" or research Kosman's modded stock wheel.

I've planned on calling Kosman to get a price to get it done. What size would be recommended 17" or 18"?
 
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