thanks mark! good to know.. in a couple weeks that should be all set and then i can just go and stare at her until mid-march or so!
Help Support VMAX Forum:
thanks mark! good to know.. in a couple weeks that should be all set and then i can just go and stare at her until mid-march or so!
Garrett, you can also turn you key on/off and watch your shiftlight flash on!
oh right.. i forgot about that! haha.. haven't even hooked it up yet.. i'm going to use your information about the wiring (right in the back of the existing tach) from another thread to do it up soon. it sucks i think the wiring it comes with is about 4" short of what I need it to be, so i'll have to solder some new stuff in..:bang head:
Bill Kratzenberg
Well-Known Member
Mario makes a pretty sweet chrome shift cover for the raptor.
It attaches right to the handle bar. If i didn't already pay extra for my chrome shift light, i would get one...
It attaches right to the handle bar. If i didn't already pay extra for my chrome shift light, i would get one...
hey mark/anyone who wants to answer an electrical question...
does it make sense that there is continuity between the black/brown wires on the tach? even when i remove them from connecting to the tach, when i put my multi-meter between them it shows continuity, or if i put one node on the harness end of the black or brown eye hook that connects to the tach (still with all wires off of the tach connection)
hopefully that question makes sense? i see how i could have messed it up but i figured its worth doublechecking now rather that finding out i royally fucked something up later...
does it make sense that there is continuity between the black/brown wires on the tach? even when i remove them from connecting to the tach, when i put my multi-meter between them it shows continuity, or if i put one node on the harness end of the black or brown eye hook that connects to the tach (still with all wires off of the tach connection)
hopefully that question makes sense? i see how i could have messed it up but i figured its worth doublechecking now rather that finding out i royally fucked something up later...
Yep, that's normal. The brown and black wires are for the speedo bulbs. You're measuring the continuity of the light bulbs. Brown is the hot wires and black goes to ground.
No problem!
For the speedo lights?
well i have the instrument cluster off completely, and if the black/brown coming off of the tach goto the backlight for the speedo, and thats where the connect, not sure how they are still getting continuity if the two wiring harnesses coming off of the instrument panel are disconnected..
not sure if i'm explaining correctly...
not sure if i'm explaining correctly...
Ah, gotcha. The speedo lights aren't powered by the instrument cluster. The cluster is powered by the signal fuse and the speedo light's and two cluster lights are powered by the headlight fuse. You should always read continuity between black and blue wires going to Speedometer. Hope this helps.
that def explains some of it, but i'm not sure if i'm not getting the correlation, not explanining right or my limited electrical knowledge is catching up with me...
let me try again.. thanks in advance mark!
So i took the instrument panel completely off the bike.. its sitting in my living room..
i take my multi-meter, and for lack of a better word put it on the continuity setting. A normal straight thru wire will read like "002" or "001". It will read those types readings if I put one node on the eye hook screw and one on where that wire (respectively) goes into the wiring socket/harness. The grey wire (signal from what I understand) will not read anything else no matter what i connect the other end to.
however, the black/brown ones read the "002" or "001" if i match them up black eye hook to black harness wire or on the brown. however, if I cross them it shows around "~165". This happens whether the eye hooks are attached to the tachometer or if the small screws are out and they're just dangling. This leads me to believe there is some sort of resistor or something that the black and brown both connec tto somewhere else in the instrument panel wiring.....
make sense? are you actually still saying the same answer and its my knowledge thats not allowing me to really follow perhaps?
Okay, I think I understand what you're saying now. The three wires that connect to the center of the cluster are not related to the speedo at all. The gage lights and speedo lights are separate circuits. There should be a black, brown and gray wires going into the center section which is for your tach. The black is ground, gray is the signal wire from ignition and the brown is the switched hot wire that powers the tach itself.
Now, for your measurements. You are measuring from brown to brown and black to black? Or are you doing brown to black and brown to black for the harness side and instrument cluster side?
Now, for your measurements. You are measuring from brown to brown and black to black? Or are you doing brown to black and brown to black for the harness side and instrument cluster side?
i should have probably gotten some sort of unit aside from whatever the continuity measurement it spits out.. but anyways..
brown to brown = 001/002
black to black = 001/002
brown to black = ~165
black to brown = ~164
all the measurements are from the instrument cluster 'eye hook' to the harness wire sticking out. doesn't seem to matter either if the eye hooks are unscrewed (so more or less just testing the wires, removing the tach from the equation)...
Okay, re-read your post. You are measuring from black to black and same for brown. You should read continuity from gage black to gage brown. So, when you measure black to black you are measuring from the harness ground, to the gage, to gage brown, and then either the neutral light or temp gage or somewhere after the signal fuse. The brown harness wire is shared between the tach, temp gage, neutral light, horn and fuse box. I'm betting your black to black continuity would disappear if you disconnect the brown going to the temp gage, pull the signal fuse and put the bike in gear.
When you are measuring from brown to brown you are measuring from harness ground, to black going to tach, to brown from tach, to either neutral light, temp gage or somewhere past the signal fuse. I'm thinking continuity between brown and brown would disappear by putting it in gear, pulling ignition fuse and disconnecting brown temperature gage wire.
When you are measuring from brown to brown you are measuring from harness ground, to black going to tach, to brown from tach, to either neutral light, temp gage or somewhere past the signal fuse. I'm thinking continuity between brown and brown would disappear by putting it in gear, pulling ignition fuse and disconnecting brown temperature gage wire.
i think i followed like 60% of that. it sounds like what i'm seeing is kind of to be expected and since i can't see hwo i fucked anything up i'll make sure when i hook it all back up this weekend...
mark, thanks again for your patience and help!
Yeah, if your tach is working I wouldn't worry about it.
You understood 60%? Cool, maybe you can explain it to me then. lol
You understood 60%? Cool, maybe you can explain it to me then. lol
so the light is working well.. i really like it..
quick question for those with the harlan tho, (or others) do you notice a delay? mine is definitely set to 9k rpms and if i rev it up slowly it turns on right there, but if its going up fast it doesn't come on until the tach actually says up near 10k. i think its delayed the same amount of time each time, but obviously if its going up faster then the delay has more RPMs to go before it turns on...
obviously the simple fix is that i could set ti for like 88 or something, but then its still not right on?
or is it not delayed and the tach itself jumps the gun from the signal?
thoughts?
not a big deal either way jus tcuriuos...
quick question for those with the harlan tho, (or others) do you notice a delay? mine is definitely set to 9k rpms and if i rev it up slowly it turns on right there, but if its going up fast it doesn't come on until the tach actually says up near 10k. i think its delayed the same amount of time each time, but obviously if its going up faster then the delay has more RPMs to go before it turns on...
obviously the simple fix is that i could set ti for like 88 or something, but then its still not right on?
or is it not delayed and the tach itself jumps the gun from the signal?
thoughts?
not a big deal either way jus tcuriuos...
so i was watching a video i made of when i first hooked it up and it seems it was going on early (if anything) from this video..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEqKSCHA9fw
anyone else seeing that kind of play in the shift light? or is it the tach possibly not being 100% on?
i don't think its the wires (copper) I used to connect the tach wires to the shift light wires...
hmmm.. thoughts anyone?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEqKSCHA9fw
anyone else seeing that kind of play in the shift light? or is it the tach possibly not being 100% on?
i don't think its the wires (copper) I used to connect the tach wires to the shift light wires...
hmmm.. thoughts anyone?
