Rattle Can Paint

[motomick76]

Since the arrival of 'Black Betty' from Bob Moore, I have been making some improvements, and one has been paint and pinstripe the side covers which has gone unsuccessfully. I cleaned, taped, primed, painted, then cleared the covers. The problem is the paint falls off. I can scrape it off with my fingernail.

One side is done, but other side is flake city. Where did i go wrong? :ummm: Any suggestions on how to properly prep so when I do this again it will not fail?

Is there some nano-unilateral wangel shaft coating on these?

 

[NHVmaxpower]

Did you use a self etching primer?

 

[tothemax93]

Not a painter, but did you scuff/lightly sand the covers before you painted them. definately something on the surface not letting it stick. I painted my without issue. Congrats on getting the bike. It seems like a beast.

 

[donnelly317]

Yes you need to use self etching primer, or etch the surface, or I think there is stuff call adhesion promoter never used it tho...

 

[motomick76]

Self -etching: No, did not know or use.

I did not scuff, either. I thought maybe I should have.....:bang head:

Thank you, yes it is and addicting beast. It is VERY hard to obey the laws. :biglaugh:

Since in my possession improvements include:
Renthal 'Charmichael' bend bars
CBR Taillight conversion
Progressive springs
Chrome front indicators
Painted: Valve covers, Headlight bucket, and spedo bucket
COPS
Dyna 3000
Switched from Hindle to Kerker
Full Stage 7: Breather and pods

In the works:
Morley G-2 seat - on order
Koso Gage setup - and rebuild dash w/ drift gages

Yes, the mod monkey is WOT!

 

[SpecOps13]

Surface prep for painting is EVERYTHING. All of SkullDuggery was done with very good rattle can paint and clearcoat. Left Bike in my signature or check my album for that bike.

That Vmax is Awesome........

 

[motomick76]

Went out to garage, i got 600 grit paper and those red 3M pads. Are either adequate?

 

[NHVmaxpower]

The red pads wont touch the bare metal surface they only work on a painted surface. The covers arent totally smoooth if you look at them closely. You need at least a 220 grit paper on them & MOST definatley use a self etching primer 3m & sems makes a good one in a can. Also as donnelly said a adheesion promoter isnt a bad idea but if I'm correct you can't get that in a rattle can. The self etching is the key on the bare metal surface .

 

[motomick76]

I think I have something around the 200 range in the garage. I thought it would be too much. I will sand and then I have checked online already for the self-etching primer, and I will start over!

I will put this in 'Lessons Learned, Volume 2,365'!

Thank you.

 

[NHVmaxpower]

I think I have something around the 200 range in the garage. I thought it would be too much. I will sand and then I have checked online already for the self-etching primer, and I will start over!

I will put this in 'Lessons Learned, Volume 2,365'!

Thank you.

lol my age I learn something new just about every day. I usually dont give advise( mechanicly Im learning as I go being new to the repairs mods on a max) but painting is something I do know a little about lol. Good luck

 

[cd wallace]

Ok some of those covers are powder coated the sand paper has a hard getting it done.
That may be why from some of the covers i have seen one guy bead blasted it off frist.
Then polished the top and then painted bottem.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Degrease the surface properly with thinner. Some owners use silicon based sprays for detailing and shine and that kills any wish for repainting. No paint will ever adhere to a silicon treated surface...

 

[motomick76]

I think I have a plan, well first get paint off. Then make sure the surface is clean using thinner. Then I will sand, use the etching primer, then paint.

These are just the standard covers, nothing special such as powder coat or anything.

 

[gamorg02]

clear it with spraymax 2k. that'll help too.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Yes i found that the best coat is with HS type 2:1 coat, like you said its a 2 component mix (poly urethane).

 

[tmc_61]

You can buy actual automotive paint in aerosol cans online or at a good auto paint store. They mix up colors, put in spray can.

And of course prep is everything

 

[leroycp]

ColorRite sells/offers an adhesion promoter called Bulldog. After Cleaned...spray with purple power, course steel wool it, water rinse and dry. Try a cheap toaster oven heating at 150 then 2k prime, bake 10 to 15 min, repeat, top coat then clear till done. (Begin strip with fresh can of paint remover) Epoxy coats or Powder take time. Repeat til satisfied then bead blast. (I sent mine to Sean for chrome upper and PC lower)

 

[Miles Long]

You can buy actual automotive paint in aerosol cans online or at a good auto paint store. They mix up colors, put in spray can.

And of course prep is everything

+1
I just finished painting my larger fairing, using auto paint spray bombs. By my standards, turned out very nice ( I am a proponent of the 100-100 Rule, when it comes to painting quality).
The downside of using the spray bombs, instead of spray equipment, is that you have to wait a few weeks, if you intend to rub out the paint. No hardener is added to the bombs when they are loaded up.
Cheers!

 

[lawman504]

I did NOT sand my side covers. The self etching primer worked like a champ, painted, then used Spraymax 2k to clear coat it. I was shocked how the self etching primer worked so good.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

 

[motomick76]

So this is result with self etching primer. No better results. I stripped all paint from parts, thoroughly cleaned, temp control environment, and paint chips like before. Ugh! I spent hours prepping, clean enviro, etc. those are just from handling it with my hands.

I give up. Can anyone estimate how much is it gonna be to PC all these parts?

Thanks everyone foe helping out.