rear brake problems

gamorg02 · Sep 22, 2009

i'm not sure if they were cut like that, but more cut on a mill. i think they braced it on the hub of the opposite side.

anyways if that was the case, wouldn't you expect it to be 180? apart? it was more 90 - 110 degrees apart from the High to the low spot on the galfer rotor.

dannymax · Sep 22, 2009

I was thinking either a lathe or a vertical boring mill, but that is prolly my ancient technology talking...I'm sure there are better machines out there now.

Yes, I would expect the high & low to be 180 deg apart, but only if the wheel was improperly machined, which it doesn't appear that it was. It almost sounds like the rotor is a little thinner in one spot, but you're only out 3 mills....don't think I'd worry much about that!

gamorg02 · Sep 22, 2009

let me clarify:

old galfer rotor: high and low spots 7 mils apart and around 100 degrees apart

new/old stock rotor: no more than 2-3 mils variance.

gamorg02 · Sep 23, 2009

checked again last night. 2.5 mils is about all the runout. it seems to be near one ledge, the rest is actually about within a mil. from what i can tell tho its not near where its squeaking, and the squeaking while on the CS is moving to where the valve stem is now. haha. jeeze.

zippo6 · Sep 23, 2009

gamorg02 said:
checked again last night. 2.5 mils is about all the runout. it seems to be near one ledge, the rest is actually about within a mil. from what i can tell tho its not near where its squeaking, and the squeaking while on the CS is moving to where the valve stem is now. haha. jeeze.

Screw it, get your self 3 BMX wheels (baseball cards and clothes pins optional, but highly recommended!:biglaugh

, 2 rolls of duct tape, and some big league Chew.

Hold the BMX wheels together with the Duct tape, fill any voids with the Big League Chew (before or after chewing, that's up to you) and mount that sucker to your Max! She'll be solid as a rock! :clapping: