rear wheel washer 86 vmax

[oz1961]

I just got my bike back after having a new rear tire fitted.

When I got home I tried to turn the rear wheel on the center stand and it was tight although i could rotate it.

The outside brake pad seems to be hard against the disc

The dealer said that it just needs to settle in and that the rear washer is in the correct position

my questions

The rear washer is on the outside of the brake bracket

should it be between the brake bracket and the wheel bearing?

Or is it ok to shift it to the inside position to release the pressure?

Thanks

 

[davesax36]

That's right according to the fiche.

 

[robmac]

That's exactly how I've got mine and the wheel spins freely. Did they put new pads in when they replaced the tyre? Even then it shouldn't be grabbing and interfering with the rotation.....

 

[davesax36]

Pull the caliper. Open the reservoir. Push the pads back as far as they can go. Replace caliper. See if it's better.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

that washer doesn't interfere with the relation between caliper and rotor. It will if you put it in between the caliper bracket and the collar that seats against the bearing.

 

[sdt354]

I'd check the axle nut torque setting before riding the bike again. There is some bad info on the spec in the early manuals. 30 ft lbs is plenty. The wheel should spin free, pull the caliper off and see if it's free to determin if brakes are involved.
Steve-o

 

[[email protected]]

As noted, it is assembled correctly.

I would remove the caliper to see if that makes the wheel spin easier.
If so, I would disassemble the caliper and clean it up. The pistons may be sticking. Not a hard job to do. I would not remove the seals from the caliper unless you have new ones to replace them with. Re-installing the old ones is usually a pain in the ***.

 

[gamorg02]

As noted, it is assembled correctly.

I would remove the caliper to see if that makes the wheel spin easier.
If so, I would disassemble the caliper and clean it up. The pistons may be sticking. Not a hard job to do. I would not remove the seals from the caliper unless you have new ones to replace them with. Re-installing the old ones is usually a pain in the ***.

+1.

i'm not sure i agree with steve on 30 ft lbs, but definitely can be lower than the factory spec.

that being said there shuldnt' be a huge noticable difference in spin-ability between 30 and 80 ft lbs. as its just more pressure on the 'inner races'. if it gets worse as you go from 30 -> 80, check the caliper first, if thats not it something isn't lining up.

did you put the washer/spacer that sits between the caliper bracket and bearing with the nub side in?

these rear wheels don't spin extremely freely to begin with, but as i said 30 -> 80 shouldnt' feel too much different IMO.

 

[jfeagins]

As noted, it is assembled correctly.

I would remove the caliper to see if that makes the wheel spin easier.
If so, I would disassemble the caliper and clean it up. The pistons may be sticking. Not a hard job to do. I would not remove the seals from the caliper unless you have new ones to replace them with. Re-installing the old ones is usually a pain in the ***.

Agree....but I WOULD remove the seals. Just be careful and don't tear one getting beneath it to remove it. If you do, they are fairly cheap and Sean Morley probably has them in stock and ready to ship.

Brake fluid, combined with time, can and will turn to gunk and accumulate in the grooves where those seals sit. The grooves also need cleaned thoroughly and any gunk/corrosion accumulated there should be completely removed so that the seals can sit properly and NOT BIND the piston cup.

 

[oz1961]

Thanks for everyones advice, it's been great!
I wish I could help others as much as you have supported me, It's a great community.

Last night when I got home I pulled the callaper.
The wheel spins but not freely.
I don't have a tension wrench so I am not sure what preasure it is, so I will need to buy one today and check it.

I tried to push the calliper pistons back into the calliper and found the problem.
The inner piston moved freely but the outer piston is jammed.

I will ask Sean how much his sets are today.

But now I am interested in the rear nut preasure as it seems to be too tight.

Probably what happened was the tire shop just put an impact wrench on the nut.

On a good note.
I changed the rear tire from a Goodrich to a Bridgstone and love the difference.

The Goodrich was hard and a little slippery esspecially when the road was even a little wet.

The new Bridgestone is a huge improvement in comfort and grip which suits my riding style much better

 

[oz1961]

+1.

i'm not sure i agree with steve on 30 ft lbs, but definitely can be lower than the factory spec.

that being said there shuldnt' be a huge noticable difference in spin-ability between 30 and 80 ft lbs. as its just more pressure on the 'inner races'. if it gets worse as you go from 30 -> 80, check the caliper first, if thats not it something isn't lining up.

did you put the washer/spacer that sits between the caliper bracket and bearing with the nub side in?

these rear wheels don't spin extremely freely to begin with, but as i said 30 -> 80 shouldnt' feel too much different IMO.

did you put the washer/spacer that sits between the caliper bracket and bearing with the nub side in?

Garret. I had the rear tire fitted and I didn't remove the wheel either
but I also checked and could not see a washer/spacer between the bracket and bearing. I also couldn't find a picture with one between.

Is there meant to be one?

 

[[email protected]]

Yes.
There is a metal spacer that sits between the bearing and caliper bracket. The spacer fits into the oil seal on the wheel. If that spacer is missing, your caliper bracket would be smashed tight against the wheel. Also, your axle would barely stick (if at all) out the right side of the swingarm.

Hard to see the spacer in your photo but judging by the axle and seeing how close the washer is to the inside of the swingarm, I would say it is there.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[oz1961]

Thanks for your mail.
I will have a look to check but it looks okay to what I remember.

I will try and get a brake calliper set today sent to me.

When I first got the bike it had been sitting in a garage for years unused.

The brakes were not working but I bled them all and they seemed okay

I think what has happened is that the outer piston was seazed but I didn't notice.

It was a good thing that I changed the tire and found the problem.

 

[jfeagins]

If your calipers are jammed, they can be repaired/cleaned up easily. Simply place a rag between those outer cups and shoot some air pressure in where you've disconnected the brake line. The air pressure should "pop" the cups out easy enough. From there, you simply clean the cups til they shine like new again with some brake cleaner. And you gently remove both the thin & fatter seals from the inside of the cup bore (both sides.) Clean all the inner surfaces and put a light film of brake fluid on the cups and gently slide them back together (after re-installing either new or cleaned thick & thin seals). If you have lots of goo stuck to the inside of the calipers, and have trouble getting inside them to clean, you can split the caliper into separate halves by placing a rag over it, and gently squeezing it into a vice while applying a wrench to the two bolts holding them together. There will be small O-rings connecting the halves together where the brake fluid passes from the front half to the rear half.

 

[gamorg02]

did you put the washer/spacer that sits between the caliper bracket and bearing with the nub side in?

Garret. I had the rear tire fitted and I didn't remove the wheel either
but I also checked and could not see a washer/spacer between the bracket and bearing. I also couldn't find a picture with one between.

Is there meant to be one?

take a look at this thread:

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=33533

similar to possibly what you are seeing. those washers get lost all the time because they are flush with the seal and kind of stay in there until a jarring motion then fall on the ground. I can't find a pic to save my life of it, but it appears you have it in but i'd double check.

you don't have to remove the wheel to be sure. unscrew big axle nut, and remove the axle. then displace the caliper arm up a couple inches (wheel stays in due to final drive teeth engagement), and take a look there. there should be a metal collar/washer/spacer with a stepped face on one side between the bearing and brake caliper arm.

 

[oz1961]

Hi Garret

Thanks for your dilligence.
I had a look at the thread you posted and , YES that washer is in place.

I remember cleaning it but I left it on the wheel when I did it. I didnt know it was removable till now.

So this weekend I will do the rear calliper and fingers crossed it will be fixed

Thanks again for your help and advice.

 

[oz1961]

If your calipers are jammed, they can be repaired/cleaned up easily. Simply place a rag between those outer cups and shoot some air pressure in where you've disconnected the brake line. The air pressure should "pop" the cups out easy enough. From there, you simply clean the cups til they shine like new again with some brake cleaner. And you gently remove both the thin & fatter seals from the inside of the cup bore (both sides.) Clean all the inner surfaces and put a light film of brake fluid on the cups and gently slide them back together (after re-installing either new or cleaned thick & thin seals). If you have lots of goo stuck to the inside of the calipers, and have trouble getting inside them to clean, you can split the caliper into separate halves by placing a rag over it, and gently squeezing it into a vice while applying a wrench to the two bolts holding them together. There will be small O-rings connecting the halves together where the brake fluid passes from the front half to the rear half.

Thanks for your help.
I havn't been able to buy a rear seal kit at the moment so I am hoping I can pull it apart and put it back together again without one for now.

It must have been pushing against the disc for the last 6 months
I am glad that I changed the tire and found the problem.

Thanks again

 

[wildweasel_pt]

You can buy a good used rear caliper for like 30 bucks or less. I wouldn't worry much about rebuilding it.

 

[oz1961]

I wanted to update what happened with the rear wheel and brake.

I removed the rear calliper and both pistons where seized. the inner piston moved a little but then jammed where the outside didn't move at all.

I got the inside piston out easily using air as suggested but the outer wouldnt move.
I split the unit and used air and grips and slowly it popped out.

I couldn't get a new kit so I cleaned everything and removed the old seals and cleaned them all aswell.

I put it back togeather and both pistons worked fine.

I could now spin the rear wheel but it wasn't easy.
I bought a tension wrench and checked the nut tension which was over 100 lbs

I reset the axle nut to the correct tension and suddenly everything was perfect.

I could spin the wheel easily.
The brakes bled up and the pistons were releasing perfect.

I have decided now to get a two new kits for the fount callipers to make sure everything is working properly there as well.

Thanks for everyones help and advice.
It was an enjoyable few hours and I learnt a lot.

Oh and riding the bike now is completly different.

Thanks again to everyone for your help

 

[one2dmax]

Good news for sure.