Rear Wheels!!

[Mungry]

Hello and good morning people!! I'm looking at new rear wheels for better rubber purposes, as many have done, to rid me of the mid-corner wobble that I'm sure is going to land me in a ditch at some point!!

I'm aware of the XJ900 diversion wheel and that it will bolt on with a spindle kit, but you're limited on tyre size (160 is the biggest I think. I've heard the 170 'wraps around' the rim too much, so you actually lose contact area. could this be cured with a lower profile tyre? 170/60 - or 170/50, if there is such a thing??).

What about other big-capacity Yams with a Shaftie? FJR1300 springs to mind, which wears a 180 section rear tyre, the widest the swingarm will take without modifying, as I understand it? Would this wheel fit on the Vmax? do Yamaha use standard Shaft-drive fittings?

Would seem like a really easy way of getting to a modern tyre of a decent size, but then things that sound too good to be true always are, right?

Thanks in Advance for your advice.

 

[PDWeyand]

Are you wanting to change the rubber or the wheel that the rubber is mounted on?
A lot of members run with a 170/80 R15 instead of the stock 150/90 R15
Or you change your rim to 17 inch and run 180/55 R17 which should fit with out any mod to your swing arm, but you are also changing into a Radial tire and then you would need to change the front also to a Radial tire.

 

[VMax-Mike]

The only way you can get rid of the wobble in the rear of the bike when cornering hard is to get rid of the shaft. Shaft drive bike's are known for this.

 

[Bill Kratzenberg]

The only way you can get rid of the wobble in the rear of the bike when cornering hard is to get rid of the shaft. Shaft drive bike's are known for this.

Braced swingarms make a big difference too

 

[Barry barker]

How old are your shocks? Have you checked the swing arm bearings?

 

[one2dmax]

You just need to buy a set of the Carrozzerias from me and be happy!

Sean

 

[BikeShack]

see below
Cheers,
Amaury

Hello and good morning people!! I'm looking at new rear wheels for better rubber purposes, as many have done, to rid me of the mid-corner wobble that I'm sure is going to land me in a ditch at some point!!

I'm aware of the XJ900 diversion wheel and that it will bolt on with a spindle kit, but you're limited on tyre size (160 is the biggest I think. I've heard the 170 'wraps around' the rim too much, so you actually lose contact area. could this be cured with a lower profile tyre? 170/60 - or 170/50, if there is such a thing??).

What about other big-capacity Yams with a Shaftie? FJR1300 springs to mind, which wears a 180 section rear tyre, the widest the swingarm will take without modifying, as I understand it? Would this wheel fit on the Vmax? do Yamaha use standard Shaft-drive fittings?

Would seem like a really easy way of getting to a modern tyre of a decent size, but then things that sound too good to be true always are, right?

Thanks in Advance for your advice.

 

[BikeShack]

Hi mungry:

The wobble is not caused by a single factor... but instead, many things working together.

Here are a few things that you can do to improve (not eliminate) this issue...

I will list them in ascending cost ;-):

1) Drop front end
2) Instal the Furbur fix (while this solution was intended to resolve the head shake I noticed that once I placed the washer on its intended location the bike handled better).
3) Install good tires
4) Brace the frame (none of that clamp-on BS. Make sure to weld tabs on the frame and place a solid brace)
5) Improve rear suspension
6) Brace swing arm
7) Install lighter wheels

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Amaury

Hello and good morning people!! I'm looking at new rear wheels for better rubber purposes, as many have done, to rid me of the mid-corner wobble that I'm sure is going to land me in a ditch at some point!!

I'm aware of the XJ900 diversion wheel and that it will bolt on with a spindle kit, but you're limited on tyre size (160 is the biggest I think. I've heard the 170 'wraps around' the rim too much, so you actually lose contact area. could this be cured with a lower profile tyre? 170/60 - or 170/50, if there is such a thing??).

What about other big-capacity Yams with a Shaftie? FJR1300 springs to mind, which wears a 180 section rear tyre, the widest the swingarm will take without modifying, as I understand it? Would this wheel fit on the Vmax? do Yamaha use standard Shaft-drive fittings?

Would seem like a really easy way of getting to a modern tyre of a decent size, but then things that sound too good to be true always are, right?

Thanks in Advance for your advice.

 

[Mungry]

Hi guys,

Really appreciate the feedback, and the tips. Someone asked what the aim is, so here we go.

I'd like to have a trick looking Vmax that goes like stink (check) and handles OK too. In my mind that means R1 front end, including brakes, Drag bars (fitted today, love em, if it wasn't snowing I'd be out on it now), braced & extended rear swing arm, decent 17" wheel with 190-200 section tyre, chain drive conversion, mono-shock conversion and an aesthetic mix of chromed metal, black powder coated wheels and the bodywork in black with subtle but cool real flame effect paintjob. All this being achieved there may be a 1500cc big bore or a supercharger on the menu.

Now, I'm sure the money will run out before we get anywhere near there, but since the bike goes like stink anyway i figured we'd start with the handling.

I hear that with minimal giggery-pokery FZR1000 forks will fit on the front end, and will take an R1 calliper and wheel no problem, so the front end is sorted quickly and cheaply and I am left looking for a way to get the rear wheel 17" and wearing a decent width rubber.

I'm told a chain drive conversion is very difficult/expensive, and new swingarms the same, so I've just been looking for something that will give bolt on and allow me to get to 17" wheel and a decent width. Really, a solution to that problem is what I was looking for here. I guess an XJ900 wheel is a cheap option but I'd like to gain width on the tyre out of the investment.

So, any ideas on the immediate issue would be great, and I'm now really keen to know what Carrozzerias are, and what is the Furber Fix?!? I feel my checkbook swelling in my pocket....

Cheers guys,
Brad

 

[BikeShack]

Hi Mungry:

read on furbur fix here:

http://www.micro-delta.com/vmax/furbur.htm

Amaury

Hi guys,

Really appreciate the feedback, and the tips. Someone asked what the aim is, so here we go.

I'd like to have a trick looking Vmax that goes like stink (check) and handles OK too. In my mind that means R1 front end, including brakes, Drag bars (fitted today, love em, if it wasn't snowing I'd be out on it now), braced & extended rear swing arm, decent 17" wheel with 190-200 section tyre, chain drive conversion, mono-shock conversion and an aesthetic mix of chromed metal, black powder coated wheels and the bodywork in black with subtle but cool real flame effect paintjob. All this being achieved there may be a 1500cc big bore or a supercharger on the menu.

Now, I'm sure the money will run out before we get anywhere near there, but since the bike goes like stink anyway i figured we'd start with the handling.

I hear that with minimal giggery-pokery FZR1000 forks will fit on the front end, and will take an R1 calliper and wheel no problem, so the front end is sorted quickly and cheaply and I am left looking for a way to get the rear wheel 17" and wearing a decent width rubber.

I'm told a chain drive conversion is very difficult/expensive, and new swingarms the same, so I've just been looking for something that will give bolt on and allow me to get to 17" wheel and a decent width. Really, a solution to that problem is what I was looking for here. I guess an XJ900 wheel is a cheap option but I'd like to gain width on the tyre out of the investment.

So, any ideas on the immediate issue would be great, and I'm now really keen to know what Carrozzerias are, and what is the Furber Fix?!? I feel my checkbook swelling in my pocket....

Cheers guys,
Brad

 

[Redbone]

Hi guys,

Really appreciate the feedback, and the tips. Someone asked what the aim is, so here we go.

I'd like to have a trick looking Vmax that goes like stink (check) and handles OK too. In my mind that means R1 front end, including brakes, Drag bars (fitted today, love em, if it wasn't snowing I'd be out on it now), braced & extended rear swing arm, decent 17" wheel with 190-200 section tyre, chain drive conversion, mono-shock conversion and an aesthetic mix of chromed metal, black powder coated wheels and the bodywork in black with subtle but cool real flame effect paintjob. All this being achieved there may be a 1500cc big bore or a supercharger on the menu.

Now, I'm sure the money will run out before we get anywhere near there, but since the bike goes like stink anyway i figured we'd start with the handling.

I hear that with minimal giggery-pokery FZR1000 forks will fit on the front end, and will take an R1 calliper and wheel no problem, so the front end is sorted quickly and cheaply and I am left looking for a way to get the rear wheel 17" and wearing a decent width rubber.

I'm told a chain drive conversion is very difficult/expensive, and new swingarms the same, so I've just been looking for something that will give bolt on and allow me to get to 17" wheel and a decent width. Really, a solution to that problem is what I was looking for here. I guess an XJ900 wheel is a cheap option but I'd like to gain width on the tyre out of the investment.

So, any ideas on the immediate issue would be great, and I'm now really keen to know what Carrozzerias are, and what is the Furber Fix?!? I feel my checkbook swelling in my pocket....

Cheers guys,
Brad

I followed BikeShack's progression of improvements pretty closely but with a couple differences:
Fork drop 2" using Progressive spring lowering kit.
Made sure head bearings were in good shape and correctly adjusted the bearings tension.
Installed good bias ply tires.
Installed solid motor mounts - Delrin.
Added Progressive HD 440 shocks.
Going to brace swingarm soon.
Going to add new wheels and radials soon.

Check out this thread about special pricing that Sean Morley (one2dmax) has secured on Carrozzeria wheels. http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=7760
Carrozzeria wheel pictures:

 

[Mungry]

Cheers Amaury, really good page, will be on this as soon as the white stuff clears up....

 

[Horrendous]

Id talk to Sean ( one2dmax ). I'm pretty much doing all of that to my bike at the moment. Frame braced, inverted front end, braced and extended swingarm, 17" wheels , progressive rear shocks and nitrous. He's.very easy to work with , priced fairly, over the top knowledgeable and seems like he can get his hands on just about anything.

 

[Mungry]

Thanks Amaury, as soon as the white stuff clears up I'm taking a spanner to the headstock....

 

[Mungry]

He does seem the oracle on all things Vmax. Where is he based?

Id talk to Sean ( one2dmax ). I'm pretty much doing all of that to my bike at the moment. Frame braced, inverted front end, braced and extended swingarm, 17" wheels , progressive rear shocks and nitrous. He's.very easy to work with , priced fairly, over the top knowledgeable and seems like he can get his hands on just about anything.

 

[Redbone]

He does seem the oracle on all things Vmax. Where is he based?

Derby, Kansas, USA

 

[wildweasel_pt]

If you don't go Seans way or if you want something different send me an email and i can hook you up. Wheels made by order and i also have available a set of magnesium dymags and a billet rear swingarm (lighter i've seen so far) for those wheels mirror polished. Cheers

wildweasel_pt(AT)hotmail.com

 

[BikeShack]

RedBone's suggestions are spot ON! I forgot to mention the progressive springs with gold valves for the front and the solid motor mounts. His suggestions for checking the head bearings are also correct.

One word of caution about the solid motor mounts... the original soft rubber engine mounts sit INSIDE the frame holes... The solid mounts will protrude about 1/4 inches outside the holes. That will pose a problem if you later plan to install certain types of aftermarket frame slide. Some of these slides will mount on the same spot as the motor mounts. The design for these slides assume that you will have the recessed mounts installed. Result: slide will not fit unless you re-machine the base plate to fit.

Amaury

I followed BikeShack's progression of improvements pretty closely but with a couple differences:
Fork drop 2" using Progressive spring lowering kit.
Made sure head bearings were in good shape and correctly adjusted the bearings tension.
Installed good bias ply tires.
Installed solid motor mounts - Delrin.
Added Progressive HD 440 shocks.
Going to brace swingarm soon.
Going to add new wheels and radials soon.

Check out this thread about special pricing that Sean Morley (one2dmax) has secured on Carrozzeria wheels. http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=7760
Carrozzeria wheel pictures:

 

[Redbone]

RedBone's suggestions are spot ON! I forgot to mention the progressive springs with gold valves for the front and the solid motor mounts. His suggestions for checking the head bearings are also correct.

One word of caution about the solid motor mounts... the original soft rubber engine mounts sit INSIDE the frame holes... The solid mounts will protrude about 1/4 inches outside the holes. That will pose a problem if you later plan to install certain types of aftermarket frame slide. Some of these slides will mount on the same spot as the motor mounts. The design for these slides assume that you will have the recessed mounts installed. Result: slide will not fit unless you re-machine the base plate to fit.

Amaury

I should have added that I did add Ricor Intiminators, a competitor to the Race Tech Gold Valves. There was not the dramatic difference as when I did the springs but it is helpful in controlling the front end. Ricor recommends 5wt oil with their valves but I found it better running 10wt oil, more controlled fork action under braking (I run Tokico 6 pots).

 

[Barry barker]

I'd like to have a trick looking Vmax that goes like stink (check) and handles OK too.

Not Bragging, but in my humble opinion, my bike meets your requirements and handles extremely well!!!unk:The good news, I did not spend near the $$ you are considering. I have installed the frame brace, 418 shocks, delrin engine mounts, race tech emulators /springs, carrozzeria wheels, Avon Cobra rear/Storm front radial tires, wave rotors, corbin seat, wider bars, stainless lines and i am sure there is more.

I really like my wheels:eusa_dance:. Sounds like your about to have some real fun. :clapping:
I do have a question, why would you choose to wait for the snow to melt before working on your bike? If you modify it now in the off season you will be ready for riding season when the snow melts. I bought a heater for the garage that works great at melting ice off the tools!