Reduced reach levers

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Check out the VMOA site, I think I saw something in the Nuts and Bolts Forum on this. Worth a look anyway.

Dave
 
There are some custom adjustable levers available (and I even sell some really cool master cylinders). But, be warned that the piston size if you change the master will dictate what you can or can't do.

You can either have more lever travel (farther reach starting point) which will make it easier lever effort. Or you can have less lever travel but increased leverage required (harder pull).

Sean
 
I have stock masters/ SS lines/ busa calipers/ HH pads and it is just a 2 finger pull to have all th braking power my front metzler can handle. I'm stopping on par with my brothers FZ1 now(or really close). I would consider it a hard pull as my lever only travels a 1" to provide braking.
What master would give it longer travel and possibly more progressive feel? FJR? What size?
Maybe I should leave well enough alone!
 
Brian, the lever should not need a ton of travel to get more then enough braking. But, there should be some travel. Typically when most put braided lines on and lets say R1 claipers (on the newer bikes) there is almost NO travel at all. Super rock hard lever at 1/2" of movement. BUT, there still isn't as much stopping power with them as there is with your setup.

Sean
 
Well then that's good news! I can lock the front wheel with two fingers if I try hard enough. I was just worried I'd grab it with four fingers in panic mode and cause more excitement than needed. I guess that was a habit from my old stock brakes but I have tried to train myself to use just 2 fingers b/c that provides all the braking I should ever need.
I adjusted the stock nut/bolt so that it engages later so I'll see how that works. It seems that I have to reach 3/8"- 1/2" to get to the position to comfortably pull the lever. The clutch is the same way, having to slightly reposition/ loosen my grip when going to use the clutch/ brake. Maybe I need the adjustable FJR levers, maybe not.:confused2:
 
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