Replacing Carb Diaphragms

[sdt354]

Thanks for making me aware Jeff. I pulled mine today for tuning purposes and noticed one's starting to tear, another questionable. Be awsome to get a set. The OEM's are really pricey.
Steve-o

 

[vbmike]

When installing the new diaphragms does the orientation matter? I noticed on the slide there is a small hole on the end where the needle is. When installed into the carb the hole will face the bottom. The diaphragm has a tab on the outer edge so it's possible to change the orientation of the slide when installing the diaphragm. The question is does it matter?

 

[alorio1]

Orientation of hole does not matter, but the tab on the diaphram has to go into the carb body right.

When installing the new diaphragms does the orientation matter? I noticed on the slide there is a small hole on the end where the needle is. When installed into the carb the hole will face the bottom. The diaphragm has a tab on the outer edge so it's possible to change the orientation of the slide when installing the diaphragm. The question is does it matter?

 

[sdt354]

The seller refused to direct sell to me,or do a group discount. but it only cost me $2 more $109.Glad to get them.
Going to give install a shot soon.
Steve-o

 

[vbmike]

I just bought a set directly from him for $100 two weeks ago. I'd follow the instruction on his ebay auction for changing the diaphragms. I broke one of my slides when trying to take it apart so I just pulled the diaphragm off the side and installed the new ones without separating the slide. They worked great!

 

[dannymax]

I just bought a set directly from him for $100 two weeks ago. I'd follow the instruction on his ebay auction for changing the diaphragms. I broke one of my slides when trying to take it apart so I just pulled the diaphragm off the side and installed the new ones without separating the slide. They worked great!

This seemed to be the best way for me too....WD them up good, work them a bit so they're loose and slowly pull them out.

 

[vbmike]

Yea and when I installed the new ones I used WD40 and two screw drivers. One I wedged in between the two plastic washers to create some space and then the other one to push the diaphragm between the washers. Make sure that the diaphragm is in all the way and seated in the grove of the washer or else it will pucker up.

 

[sdt354]

Yea and when I installed the new ones I used WD40 and two screw drivers. One I wedged in between the two plastic washers to create some space and then the other one to push the diaphragm between the washers. Make sure that the diaphragm is in all the way and seated in the grove of the washer or else it will pucker up.

Thanks Mike and Dan-o, I was thinking of trying that. Thought it might be better than splitting the slides and regluing. Glad to hear it can be done.
Steve-o

 

[Ricardo]

Silicone does not work well with gasoline, fair for ethanol. Would not recommend for using with gas.

I think it is good to consider that in the chamber housing the diaphragm just only enter air... gasoline income is not possible...just see the carburetor diagrams. I repair three old diaphragms plugging their holes with silicon red, recommended by the manufacturer for engine gaskets. Now I am ready to change this old diaphragms, but I would like to commented that repair job work well for six month

 

[TurcoLoco]

Has anyone tried this one which seemed like a good idea?

 

[naughtyG]

Sure sounds good! Never done it myself, and also wondered how to separate the rubber diaphragm from the slide, so this is a great video. Thanks!

 

[dannymax]

I saw this video a while ago....it seems like a great way to perform the diaphragm replacement operation. I've been curious how the 'replacement' diaphragms function over time tho....I believe they are all rubber as opposed to the oem ones which are rubberized canvas.

Has anyone run these replacements for any length of time, how do they perform/hold up?

 

[sdt354]

I saw this video a while ago....it seems like a great way to perform the diaphragm replacement operation. I've been curious how the 'replacement' diaphragms function over time tho....I believe they are all rubber as opposed to the oem ones which are rubberized canvas.

Has anyone run these replacements for any length of time, how do they perform/hold up?

I ran them all last season Dan-o. Like you said they are more rigid and thicker than the OEM's. I prefer OEM parts for the carbs when I can get them.
I have to say they have been fine so far. I really couldn't afford 4 new from Yamaha then, or now. So, I gave it a shot. I'm hoping they beecame more flexible as time goes by. The slide reaction seems to be ok. I'll be doing my spring tune/clean starting today and see how they look.
Steve-o

 

[TurcoLoco]

Just got mine that I ordered on eBay, paid $80 + shipping for all 4 diaphragms and they look awesome! I have not had the chance to install them yet but I am sure they will work just fine.

Tip: do not order them from eBay, instead go to that Canadian vendor's site and order from there so you save yourself a few more bucks (lower price) and also have more shipping options just in case.

The following is the direct link to the part ($17.99 each):
http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=3988




http://www.siriusconinc.com/product-motorcycle_atv_sled_marine_parts-39.htm

 

[donnelly317]

Just got mine that I ordered on eBay, paid $80 + shipping for all 4 diaphragms and they look awesome! I have not had the chance to install them yet but I am sure they will work just fine.

Tip: do not order them from eBay, instead go to that Canadian vendor's site and order from there so you save yourself a few more bucks (lower price) and also have more shipping options just in case.

The following is the direct link to the part ($17.99 each):
http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=3988

got mine from that site came in yesterday. they seem pritty dam flexable to me i dont know if its the same style as everyone else is using.. but looks like better of a oring seal on the carb cover from the stock ones too. Im just not looking forward to replacing them now..

 

[TurcoLoco]

got mine from that site came in yesterday. they seem pritty dam flexable to me i dont know if its the same style as everyone else is using.. but looks like better of a oring seal on the carb cover from the stock ones too. Im just not looking forward to replacing them now..

They are actually more flexible than the OEMs but since they are all rubber, they have no memory on shape they take making it seemingly impossible to position then properly before closing the carb cover. They might be better at the o-ring part but my initial attempt of assembling them yield to zero vacuum (slides didn't move at all upon rolling on the throttle). They were in position and looked like sealed well when I was closing the cover but somehow it didn't work. OEM ones, though a bit less flexible would stay in position somewhat after stretching them and fitting them in the o-ring groove. The glue part seemed to have worked well and is indeed firmly holding the washers and diaphragm so I am guessing the leak is in the cover part?
Are the slides supposed to bounce back promptly when moving them with my finger or are they suppose to move back slowly to indicate a vacuum build up? :ummm:

 

[ckemp71]

i did a quick look on ebay, couldnt find them.

 

[bazwell]

I saw them there yesterday, but you are right, they aren't there today!

 

[bazwell]

i did a quick look on ebay, couldnt find them.

Look further up this page! :rofl_200:

http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=3988

:biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:

 

[cant_drive55]

IF the slides do NOT move when you blip the throttle with the airbox lid removed, would that mean that either A) the diaphrams are bad, or B) I may have them not installed correctly creating a leak ? Only 1 slide moves the other 3 do not, Also Does anyone have any idea why my v-boost does not start until 7000-7500 instead of at 6000 ?