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davesax36

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Are two of the clutch retainer ring bolts special shear bolts? I just snapped two of them off approaching 70 in./lb and I'm super frustrated. Then I looked at Lvlhead's page and his bolts look totally different. Mine look like factory bolts but were all 10mm. The two that snapped are obviously different from the others as they have normal threads for the first 60% and then stretched-looking threads for about three, then normal again. I'm pretty sure that I didn't stretch two bolts exactly the same way. The other four bolts took the torque without issue. I've backed everything out at this point anyway, so I don't break anything else.

I would love to know the actual bolt specs for the clutch retainer ring. I wanna ride :bang head:
 
I went ahead and bought some stainless M6x1x25 bolts. The only concern I have now is whether a full thread bolt will damage the clutch spring retainer. I don't think it will because there's not much/any movement between the spring and ring.

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They are not special shear bolts. Just regular bolts. All threads won't hurt it. Id stick with regular steel. Less chance of snapping. Don't torque them too tight. I go about 7nM.
 
The torque on those is small. I think its around 6 if i recall correctly as per Haynes...
 
I went with the pcw spec of 70 inch pounds. I think loctite messed with the torque values. All threads went on with no problems and felt good. Then I snapped off a clutch cover bolt the same way. I'm an idiot today. 17 foot pounds with loctite felt like 40. Won't make that mistake again.

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I never use loctite unless on the stator. The torque is fairly little on those parts you are talking about.
 
stupid question but you did them all at the same time right? I get paranoid with any clutch bolts and literally do criss cross pattern like one full rotation at a time all 4/6 bolts whatever. takes a litte longer but guarnatees even pressure.
 
I went with the pcw spec of 70 inch pounds. I think loctite messed with the torque values. All threads went on with no problems and felt good. Then I snapped off a clutch cover bolt the same way. I'm an idiot today. 17 foot pounds with loctite felt like 40. Won't make that mistake again.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Using loctie on these bolts is forbiden.
 
I replaced the stock bolts for allen heads which i crossdrilled with a 2mm drill to use lock wire. I have some more vibration though due the lockup. Thats an option you might consider if you are utterly concerned about that...
 
I replaced the stock bolts for allen heads which i crossdrilled with a 2mm drill to use lock wire. I have some more vibration though due the lockup. Thats an option you might consider if you are utterly concerned about that...
Never seen them self unscrewing Fred. Its propably becouse the dish spring
works like spring washer itself which preventing the nuts&bolts from losening
since...I dont know...300 hundred years.
Never heard about losened bolts from dish spring retainer ever to be honest.
 
stupid question but you did them all at the same time right? I get paranoid with any clutch bolts and literally do criss cross pattern like one full rotation at a time all 4/6 bolts whatever. takes a litte longer but guarnatees even pressure.

Yes I did. I replaced them all with stainless today. Don't think I'll have any issues.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Never seen them self unscrewing Fred. Its propably becouse the dish spring
works like spring washer itself which preventing the nuts&bolts from losening
since...I dont know...300 hundred years.
Never heard about losened bolts from dish spring retainer ever to be honest.

I do agree. Not really needed as long as torque specs are properly respected... I got stainless bolts as well due the clearcover and the steel ones get rusty when the plating rubs off from friction... Im using a barnett as well of course so no dish spring retainer...
 
yea i agree with fred and prez that spring works like a lock washer.
 
I was thinking the same thing about the spring, but I got unsure after reading threds about solid motor mounts loosening things. I guess those warnings are only for regular bolts holding parts in other spots oon the bike.
 
I was thinking the same thing about the spring, but I got unsure after reading threds about solid motor mounts loosening things. I guess those warnings are only for regular bolts holding parts in other spots oon the bike.

yea that already has a 'locking' mechanism on it.
 
I do agree. Not really needed as long as torque specs are properly respected... I got stainless bolts as well due the clearcover and the steel ones get rusty when the plating rubs off from friction... Im using a barnett as well of course so no dish spring retainer...

I did the same thing with changing the regular bolts to ss allen bolts.
With Barnett you are experiencing the same thing - still a spring washer
but this time played by single helical spring - same shit as with AF screws
carburators...they never loose.

yea that already has a 'locking' mechanism on it.
As many other things in automotive threaded connections that you do not even realize :)

I was thinking the same thing about the spring, but I got unsure after reading threds about solid motor mounts loosening things. I guess those warnings are only for regular bolts holding parts in other spots oon the bike.
You will experience some loosened bolts here and there but not these ones. Use loctite on external nuts&bolts like for body parts or footpegs.
The only place to use loctite in this engine are M6 coutersunk screws located under the clutch basket - for bearing plate.
There are also CS screws in two plates for holding the big middle drive gear bearing which are factory staked but I personaly use loctite on them.
 
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