Retirement time.

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Bill Seward

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I think it's time to retire Godzilla. Age is catching up with me and the bike is just too uncomfortable to ride. I've used nothing but E Zero gas since Danny did the carbs a couple years ago, but this season the bike ran badly from the start and now won't even start. It's backfiring through the carbs as soon as I turn on the ignition (before cranking..), and won't keep running more than a second after cranking. At this point the Roadstar is sufficient for me to ride, and still runs well. My son will be getting the bike when he has a house with space to store it. His plans are for a total going over of the machine. He's a doctor - he'll be able to afford it. 38 years and 136,000 miles. It was a great run.
 
Might have, but I couldn't afford a new one. The bike sounds like it's trying to fire when I crank the engine, but won't keep running when I release the button.
 
Yeah, Sean. Even with the choke ..Today I hit it with some starting fluid. It fired and kept running for a few seconds. A loud backfire through one of the carbs actually moved the carb assembly on the rubber boots. I'll check carb seating next. A huge air leak could well be the culprit.
 
Dan. Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it. I'm recovering from a badly sprained right knee... 10 weeks of frickin hell!, and it's difficult to get down to the level of the bike to do much with it. Things are healing up slowly. I went to an orthopedic doctor and he determined nothing is torn, maybe a bit of meniscus damage, and arthritis in both knees.

Last attempt at starting caused a massive backfire through the carbs, enough to actually move the assembly. The right rear carb is definitely not properly seated on the boot. Gonna try reseating the carbs (the boots are new, but Chinese copies of OEM) and see if that helps. Gonna check everything else, drain the bowls, check for fuel pump operation, etc.

I will contact you if you're still willing to have a look at them after I get mobile enough to work on the bike.

Actually, the talk of retirement of the bike was more out of frustration than a willingness to give up on it and pass the problem on to my son. It runs, it is gonna be ridden.
 
Ok, looks like Godzilla isn't as dead as I thought. My knee feels a lot better today, so I got out to the garage to have a look at Godzilla. The right bank of carbs are loose on the boots, enough to be able to lift them right out of the boots. I know the left side isn't a whole lot better, but they didn't lift off, like the right side.

Anyhoo, I fitted the right side carbs back into the boots, tightened up the clamps, and pushed the starter button.

Bike started instantly. Took throttle without too much complaining, and settled to a somewhat even idle. Next step is to pull the carbs, and determine if the problem is with the Chinese knock off carb boots, or the fact that the clamps may have been loose all along....

The question is now, are these counterfeit carb boots just plain garbage? This is where opinions from you guys come in.. OEM are about a hundred bucks. These were about fifteen dollars for all 4 if memory serves me.
Anyone (Sean, Danny, or Kyle) got a set of OEM boots they'd be willing to part with?

As far as retirement time, this bike is officially UNretired!
 
Same here, and I can vouch for the aftermarket CV diaphragms too, the ones you have to replace onto your plastic slides. Be careful, as the plastic is fragile, and easily broken! There are several threads about how to replace rubber CV diaphragms. I suggest you read all you pull-up doing a search on the forum, and choose the method which is likely to have the least risk of cracking the slides.

Here's a thread you may find useful for seating the carbs and airbox. My contribution is #8.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/how-to-press-the-carbs-block-down.45793/#post-465457
I would be very careful about prying on the carburetors in any way! The 'german silver'/potmetal they're made of isn't known for its strength. Some of the carburetors are no-longer available if you crack a body.
 
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Well, now you know what was the reason for it to not run properly, I believe. I think there may not be a need to remove the carburetors. Take a close look to ensure that the carburetors are fully seated to the VBoost manifold, and the airbox to the carbs' bellmouths (carburetors' tops). If you have the OEM clamps there is a small piece of metal which is supposed to allow the clamps to tighten only so-much. One is outlined in yellow, below.

VMax carb-VBoost manifold clamp.jpg

This picture, below, shows the horizontal casting mark on the VBoost manifold against which the rubber donut should be resting.
VMax carb boots.01.jpg
 
My parts are definitely not seating properly. Thanks for the pics. I'll be sorting it out after I get back from a short trip to Vermont to visit my son for his 30th birthday. I started the bike this morning. Fired up instantly, but I can hear the leaks...
 
My parts are definitely not seating properly. Thanks for the pics. I'll be sorting it out after I get back from a short trip to Vermont to visit my son for his 30th birthday. I started the bike this morning. Fired up instantly, but I can hear the leaks...
Spray a little wd40 on boots while bike is running. If no rpm change boots are sealed.
 
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