Rotor Dilemmas

[Miles Long]

Did you ever determine if your front brakes are dragging, by riding for a spell, using only the rear brake to stop, then checking the temperature of the front rotors? They may be dragging just enough to eventually warp the rotors and cause the problems outlined, after a few thousand kilometers or so.
If no dragging at all is taking place, the rotors should be no more than ambient temperature, perhaps lower because of the cooling effect of the wind.
I've had issues with both front and rear, caused by dragging, this was the easiest way to determine the problem.
A diagnostic technique no applicable for automobiles - score one for the two-wheelers!
Cheers
p.s. - my wife is originally from Sudbury, so I know enough to realize that test rides are a couple months away.

 

[maxcruiser]

Did you ever determine if your front brakes are dragging, by riding for a spell, using only the rear brake to stop, then checking the temperature of the front rotors? They may be dragging just enough to eventually warp the rotors and cause the problems outlined, after a few thousand kilometers or so.
If no dragging at all is taking place, the rotors should be no more than ambient temperature, perhaps lower because of the cooling effect of the wind.
I've had issues with both front and rear, caused by dragging, this was the easiest way to determine the problem.
A diagnostic technique no applicable for automobiles - score one for the two-wheelers!
Cheers
p.s. - my wife is originally from Sudbury, so I know enough to realize that test rides are a couple months away.

I did check that a few times while riding and they were not abnormally hot. Went as far as riding highway for awhile and downshifting/coasting to stop and all three rotors were cool. Even lifted the bike on a stand and spun wheel by hand and no drag either.

Even now with bike in garage, left front rotor is draging at one spot and back one, but no bluing or bad wear on rotors, that's why I was wondering if center buttons could be seized causing this warping effect.

Not sure, but I do have one of the rotors that I took off last time, so I am gonna try to clean the buttons and lube them with graphite to see if they will free up at all.

Mike

 

[bazwell]

The rotor mounting points really should have been taped off.

Some people think that having repeated mechanical issues is a reflection on your life.
So having all those brake failures would be because you don't know how to slow down... time for a holiday! :biglaugh:

Any excuse for a holiday is a good idea! :eusa_dance:

 

[maxcruiser]

The rotor mounting points really should have been taped off.

Some people think that having repeated mechanical issues is a reflection on your life.
So having all those brake failures would be because you don't know how to slow down... time for a holiday! :biglaugh:

Any excuse for a holiday is a good idea! :eusa_dance:

There's some damn good advise right there!

Years with very little brake probelms, than all of a sudden bammm :ummm:

 

[Rusty McNeil]

When checking the rotors for warpage it's a good idea I think to do them mounted on the wheel itself, that way your checking rotor and the wheel surface mounting points, if found to be warped then can break it down from there to find which is the culprit.

All this has gotten me curious....

On a car typically have a non floating rotor and a caliper that only has pistons on one side, the caliper HAS to be floating in order for the caliper to apply equal pressure on both side of the rotor......99% of cars I've done brake jobs on are this way and if the "floating" means for the caliper sieazes up then pad wear will all be on one side and the brakers don't work so good either.....

On a bike, typically having a fixed or semi-floating caliper with pistons on both sides of the rotor and hopefully squeezing equally on both sides, and moving how ever much is needed to accomodate pad wear.....
What is the point in having a floating or semi-floating rotor????
The hydraulic principles of having a piston on both sides of a fixed caliper squeezing a fixed rotor seem like it's all going to be "self centering" via the pistons moving however much is needed to achieve equal hydraulic force........

I'm sure I'm missing something here? Is the floating rotor to accomodate "anomalies" in regards to temporarily heat warped rotors or in sticking pistons and whatnot?

 

[bazwell]

Rusty, I think the floating rotors expand differently to a one piece, and because they float a little, the pads can pull them straight as they get hot.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Just passing by... :biglaugh:

 

[Redbone]

I thought part of the reason for floating rotors was in a racing application it did'nt allow for a direct path for the heat coming off the outside of the rotors to heat up the wheel bearing, causing a failure. :confused2:

 

[naughtyG]

And I though the idea was to be able to have softer/lighter material on the inner rotor, as the stuff in contact with the pads has to be very strong/heavy?

 

[KJShover]

And I though the idea was to be able to have softer/lighter material on the inner rotor, as the stuff in contact with the pads has to be very strong/heavy?

+1

Is the floating rotor to accomodate "anomalies" in regards to temporarily heat warped rotors or in sticking pistons and whatnot?

+1

Other advantages are:

• Scrubbing heat
• They tend to be a little bit lighter
• They have a longer life.

:biglaugh:




.