Seafoam or clean?

[DigitalArts]

Yesterday I changed the oil, tuned brake lines, got my rear tire shipped in, and decided to tackle a bit of carb diagnosis.

As it turns out, the right two vgas carbs were about 3k rpm worth of slack separate from the left side... so I adjusted the left side to match the right and now they both move with the throttle at identical times.

When I noticed that difference in cable tension I thought for sure that was what was causing my total loss of any power from just over idle to almost 2k, and I was like yesssss!

As it turns out, that dramatically increased how the motor acts at those rpms. Unfortunately, unless I'm going downhill I still have more power at idle than the 1.1k to 1.7k range.

I spoke with a rep from UFO the other day and he was exceptionally helpful, part of what I understood was that the air mimixture screw from the bottom left of each velocity stack should be at a similar turned point (3/4 turn out?)

So with that, I looked around and the two on the left appear to have been adjusted 1/2 turn or so.

On top of that, only the front right acceleration pump is working

It appears as though I'd either need to take them off and remove the bowl/jets and blow everything out or run seafoam for 100 years to fix it for me

I'm actually fairly comfortable with the idea of adjusting them myself and taking the jets out/cleaning them, but I'm not sure how to get them off properly.

Any ideas what the problem is causing the weak low rpm power? Pilot jet(s)? Should I take off and clean or run sea foam?

 

[Damon]

I will try to describe a method I have been using to sync my V-gas system at two different RPM levels that seems to work very well. First understand that carburetors #1 & #2 are a mechanically linked pair, also carburetors #3 & #4 are a mechanically link pair. What I will call the master from each pair is the one that the throttle cable attaches to. Carburetor # 1 on the left side & carburetor #4 on the right side. Step #1 install two vacuum port nipple into carb #1 & #4 manifold. Step #2 Verify each pair are mechanically sync be method of using a small diameter pin the measure the gap at the bottom of each slide are the same for carb #1 & #2 then carb #3 & #4, while the cables are relaxed & carb #1 & #4 are resting on their respected idle stop screws (#1 is a actual stop screw #4 is the adjustment type cable that hangs with the knob). Step #3 attach a vacuum meter to # 1 & #4, start the engine, set the idle stops to your desired RPM (1100~1200) now adjust the stops screws to level-off the vacuum readings while maintaining your idle RPM. Step#4 make sure both throttle cable adjusters located at the #1 & #4 carbs are now set with no lift & very little to no slack. Use the single cable adjuster located at the throttle box for the pull cable and over-adjust it until the engine is at 2000 RPM. Step #5 use the vacuum readings to adjust each bank LH & RH by means of making minor adjustments at each throttle cable adjusters located at #1 & #4 while maintaining the 2000 RPM. Step $6 relax the single cable adjuster to very little slack & your engine should return to the idle RPM. Last step remove the vacuum meter, cap the two new vacuum ports, & ride the crap out of your bike. I do this about once a riding season until the cable stretch settles.
Hope this was some help!

 

[marsmax85]

Also it won't hurt to keep some seafoam 1/3 of a can added to tankit could take 2 3 or 4 tanks to help clean up lines and carbs and don't to change fuel filter( if it's not see thru filter cut it open to look inside .

 

[PATMAX]

Seafoam ain't the only additive that helps. I run it myself because I can usually get a can for under. $7 bucks. I had better success clearing out carbs with product called Mechsnic in a bottle.
Completely hokey name. Comes in a narrow cylindrical plastic bottle. About same price as much larger bottle of Seafoam. But Mars is right , it can take a few tanks to do its job. Bummer you can't get out on the highway for some extended high speed runs to get the fuel blasting through the jets.

 

[adambweird]

Another option is Berrymans B12 chemtool. Cheaper than Seafoam and seems to work just as well.

 

[DigitalArts]

Awesome! We'll I think I'll go ahead and let the fuel additives take their course.

Meanwhile, where can I get a cheap siphon to get the old gas out?

I want to get fresh gas in and a new fuel filter.

For the fuel filter, do I just find one that looks the same?

 

[davesax36]

Autozone or O'Reilly

 

[Chopcor]

Awesome! We'll I think I'll go ahead and let the fuel additives take their course.

Meanwhile, where can I get a cheap siphon to get the old gas out?

There is a drain plug on the bottom of the tank, should do what you want I think.

 

[DigitalArts]

Awesome! We'll I think I'll go ahead and let the fuel additives take their course.

Meanwhile, where can I get a cheap siphon to get the old gas out?

There is a drain plug on the bottom of the tank, should do what you want I think.

I took a look for it and couldn't find it, is it between the exhaust pipes on the very bottom?

Thanks

 

[marsmax85]

I use a kerosene siphon from home depot that way you can suck crud the out .

 

[eggohead]

I use seafoam about once a month, and at the start and end of the riding season. I usually use a syringe and put in the carb at the start of the season, the rest of the time just add to fuel tank. My lawnmower runs way better with it as well as some of my buddies with HDs...