seat doesn't come up easily

[gamorg02]

when popping the mid section of my seat for gas or what have you it rarely comes up by itself anymore. both handles unlatch properly but it just doesn't pop. anyone see this before? i haven't had a chance to dig in but wondering if maybe the internal latch stuff is gummed up. i can see the latches move but maybe something is getting caught.

taking the seat off (don't use bolts to hold it in), there are no visible cracks and it moves and 'springs' itself open just fine.

i usually ahve to pop one latch and put some light pressure on that part to get it to be removed from the latch then do the other side and it will pop open.

maybe spray some brake cleaner in there? silicone lube? wd40?

thinking out loud more than anything.

 

[KJShover]

It happened to me once after seat reassembly. I loosened the bolts a little then hit it with some WD40 on the moving parts and on the prongs that lock into the latch on the frame.

 

[44boyd]

me too, thinking not having the bolts in messes with function. Sometimes it kicks my ass trying to get it to pop open.

 

[ZackDaniels]

I have this problem too - I got the bike used and the first 5-10 times it worked fine and then it just stopped popping like it is supposed to.

So now I have to reach in and get one while using my other hand to push the seat up and be sure it's clear of one latch, and then repeat for the other side.

This problem combined with the fatmax hard bags makes it look like I'm trying to birth a calf out the ass of my bike every time I need to put gas in it.

It's a real pain, and I can't wait to be able to afford an aftermarket seat.

 

[44boyd]

I have this problem too - I got the bike used and the first 5-10 times it worked fine and then it just stopped popping like it is supposed to.

So now I have to reach in and get one while using my other hand to push the seat up and be sure it's clear of one latch, and then repeat for the other side.

This problem combined with the fatmax hard bags makes it look like I'm trying to birth a calf out the ass of my bike every time I need to put gas in it.

It's a real pain, and I can't wait to be able to afford an aftermarket seat.

I wish there was a Maxgasser Lite, with a smaller looking rear piece. The fat ass look is the only thing keeping me from selecting that over a Muscle seat. Especially for that cost.

 

[gamorg02]

It happened to me once after seat reassembly. I loosened the bolts a little then hit it with some WD40 on the moving parts and on the prongs that lock into the latch on the frame.

which bolts, seat bolts? yea i don't have any in, that might be something...

me too, thinking not having the bolts in messes with function. Sometimes it kicks my ass trying to get it to pop open.

wondered that myself

I have this problem too - I got the bike used and the first 5-10 times it worked fine and then it just stopped popping like it is supposed to.

So now I have to reach in and get one while using my other hand to push the seat up and be sure it's clear of one latch, and then repeat for the other side.

This problem combined with the fatmax hard bags makes it look like I'm trying to birth a calf out the ass of my bike every time I need to put gas in it.

It's a real pain, and I can't wait to be able to afford an aftermarket seat.

sounds exactly what mine is doing. i usually keep a bungee net on the gas cap so was thinking that was doing it but i haven't had it there in a couple weeks and still same thing. guess its time for some lube

I wish there was a Maxgasser Lite, with a smaller looking rear piece. The fat ass look is the only thing keeping me from selecting that over a Muscle seat. Especially for that cost.

talk to rick about the maxgasser drag racer style. might be just what you want!

 

[PATMAX]

Jealous much?

When in doubt...Gas it !!!

 

[twistedmax]

I wish there was a Maxgasser Lite, with a smaller looking rear piece. The fat ass look is the only thing keeping me from selecting that over a Muscle seat. Especially for that cost.


Patrick thats was rotten , but thanks !

Right now patmax has the only dragmaxgasser in existance, but that could all change in a few months :ummm:

44boyd , what do you mean by Especially for that cost. I dont understand,do you think its expensive or reasonable for a completly new aftermarket seat, on new pans, new foams(not cut down) and all hardware included?not to mention your choice of material including one that you may want to provide on a seat built custom for each cutomer.

 

[ZackDaniels]

dragmaxgasser looks hot. Same cost on that?

I think he just meant for the cost he'd like to get exactly what he's looking for, and not that it's obscenely marked up or anything like that.

 

[twistedmax]

dragmaxgasser looks hot. Same cost on that?

I think he just meant for the cost he'd like to get exactly what he's looking for, and not that it's obscenely marked up or anything like that.

Thank you, as for cost IF I were to do it yes it would be the same cost,the only savings is in the foam and it really is not that much less for the little foam , however I DONT plan on making the dragmaxgasser, but that doesnt mean it wont be made( see the inquiry favor thread)

And I can certainly understand wanting exactly what you pay for, and or getting something that works for you,thats why I have the trial program.


Garret, sorry for the Hijack , check the width between the "hooks" on the seat against the width of the catch's on the frame,maybe they have spread a little over the years, you can also losen the catch(x 2) and maybe move them back just RCH. just A couple thoughts

 

[44boyd]

dragmaxgasser looks hot. Same cost on that?

I think he just meant for the cost he'd like to get exactly what he's looking for, and not that it's obscenely marked up or anything like that.

Yup, I have my "things to do first on a budget" list on here. So i just want to be smart with my purchases. Every time I fill up I talk myself towards a gasser, but the gen2 style muscle looks good. I'm military so paying $300 for a seat is my months allowance lol. I'd like to make an event and see the regular and drag in person.

 

[ZackDaniels]

My remaining list is:
1. Suspension and barring adjustment (for me)
2. Sissy Bar/Luggage Rack (for her)
3. Seat (for us)
4. Clutch (for it)
5. Fun stuff like tach, lights, body work, paint, etc.

At some point in there I'll probably go with radials and rims, but I'm not looking hard at that until the stock tires are due to be replaced. That's how I've prioritized it anyway.

 

[44boyd]

My remaining list is:
1. Suspension and barring adjustment (for me)
2. Sissy Bar/Luggage Rack (for her)
3. Seat (for us)
4. Clutch (for it)
5. Fun stuff like tach, lights, body work, paint, etc.

At some point in there I'll probably go with radials and rims, but I'm not looking hard at that until the stock tires are due to be replaced. That's how I've prioritized it anyway.

I just got front springs and all new Galfer lines with this months play money. Love to get those 17's for sale on here, just don't know the cons of 17's vs 18's.
Then it'll be seat, bodywork, jet kit and sissy bar luggage rack.

I took some plasti dip and coated my scoops and manifold covers just to see if I want to go powder coat or the chrome route. I'm torn on those 2.

 

[[email protected]]

don't know the cons of 17's vs 18's.

17 Pro: More tire choices
17 Con: Higher RPMs. Less ground clearance

18 Pro: More Ground clearance. Closer to stock RPM
18 Con: Less tire choices

Lots of guys like the looks of a 18" rim on the vmax vs. a 17" rim. But, looks are subject to opinion. Changing fenders, forks, and shocks make a big difference in how the wheels integrate with the look of the bike.

 

[gamorg02]

Garret, sorry for the Hijack , check the width between the "hooks" on the seat against the width of the catch's on the frame,maybe they have spread a little over the years, you can also losen the catch(x 2) and maybe move them back just RCH. just A couple thoughts

all good man! i got a few things to try along with what you just said so its all good. this thread is thoroughly hijacked at this point!

 

[dannymax]

I'll reel it back in Garrett! :biglaugh:

My seat acts the same way yours does....in fact the last time I gassed up the seat bolts weren't in, I tripped the levers, removed the gas cap, grabbed the fuel nozzle and reached down to pull the flip section a bit farther so the nozzle would fit.....the whole fuckin' seat came off!! :bang head:

So there I am with the gas hose in one hand and the VMax seat hanging off the other hand....."How do I look so far!!" :rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:

That's when I came home and called Rick....and just got back from the PO where my 2nd MAXGASSER was waiting for me! :clapping::clapping::clapping:

Thanks again Rick!unk:

 

[44boyd]

17 Pro: More tire choices
17 Con: Higher RPMs. Less ground clearance

18 Pro: More Ground clearance. Closer to stock RPM
18 Con: Less tire choices

Lots of guys like the looks of a 18" rim on the vmax vs. a 17" rim. But, looks are subject to opinion. Changing fenders, forks, and shocks make a big difference in how the wheels integrate with the look of the bike.

So does the 17 throw the speedo off like shows 55 actual 50ish? Or would that be a tire size thing?

 

[[email protected]]

First question you gotta ask is, does the wheel in question have the ability to operate the speedometer drive gear. There are a few wheels out there that can do this. Some wheels can be modifed to do this. Sometimes you are screwed and need to go to a digital speedo.

Either way, yes the reading will be off because the size of the tire will be smaller than OEM. The same is true with 18" radials because the aspect ratio of the radial will most likely be shorter than an OEM bias tire.

There are some speed drive units that can swapped around to try and compensate for the error. I don't remember which ones work best. I did not have the option of retaining the OEM speedo with the USD busa front end I am running.

I'm sure there are some other guys here on the forum that have adressed this issue that know a little more about this subject.

 

[gamorg02]

I'll reel it back in Garrett! :biglaugh:

My seat acts the same way yours does....in fact the last time I gassed up the seat bolts weren't in, I tripped the levers, removed the gas cap, grabbed the fuel nozzle and reached down to pull the flip section a bit farther so the nozzle would fit.....the whole fuckin' seat came off!! :bang head:

So there I am with the gas hose in one hand and the VMax seat hanging off the other hand....."How do I look so far!!" :rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:

That's when I came home and called Rick....and just got back from the PO where my 2nd MAXGASSER was waiting for me! :clapping::clapping::clapping:

Thanks again Rick!unk:

haha nice! so how did the seat itself come off. and does yours stick?

So does the 17 throw the speedo off like shows 55 actual 50ish? Or would that be a tire size thing?

front yes, rear no. just rear is more rpms per speed.

First question you gotta ask is, does the wheel in question have the ability to operate the speedometer drive gear. There are a few wheels out there that can do this. Some wheels can be modifed to do this. Sometimes you are screwed and need to go to a digital speedo.

Either way, yes the reading will be off because the size of the tire will be smaller than OEM. The same is true with 18" radials because the aspect ratio of the radial will most likely be shorter than an OEM bias tire.

There are some speed drive units that can swapped around to try and compensate for the error. I don't remember which ones work best. I did not have the option of retaining the OEM speedo with the USD busa front end I am running.

I'm sure there are some other guys here on the forum that have adressed this issue that know a little more about this subject.

danny did with a thundercat speedo but his wheel was a 17" front. not sure which is closer, an oem vmax for a bias 18" tire or a thundercat 17" tire.

you'd have to do the math out.

 

[dannymax]

haha nice! so how did the seat itself come off. and does yours stick?

danny did with a thundercat speedo but his wheel was a 17" front. not sure which is closer, an oem vmax for a bias 18" tire or a thundercat 17" tire.

you'd have to do the math out.

Without the bolts holding it it just came right up when I lifted on the flip section....and yeah, it sticks, actually only goes about halfway and locks up. It may be bent....:confused2:




The axle on the T'cat is slightly smaller than the VMax so the speedo internals must be swapped to a VMax housing....not a big deal and is pretty accurate on the gauge.

The split pin is in a blind hole so takes a bit of finesse to drill out but the gears are a direct swap.