Shopping List Needed for Starter Clutch Replacement

[gamorg02]

It's ALIVE!!!
Job is complete. I added heat (thank you for the advice) and some grade-8 bolts. I cranked down on it again, and BANG! Everything came out with a large explosion. It's funny because the Haynes manual shows a picture of a strap wrench on the start clutch assembly, and a box-end wrench on the center bolt on the puller. HA HA, yeah right...

I got the starter clutch replaced, but the old one was in good shape. No cracks or missing pieces. Strange. Everything is back together and I'll be riding it tomorrow.

2 of my 5 vacation days were now spent on this thing. :damn angry:

the haynes manual should show you an example of the crow foot puller and a jaw type puller.

my starter clutch was in 'good shape' but one bolt was loose. hopefully you red loc-tited and peened them over?

 

[Lotsokids]

hopefully you red loc-tited and peened them over?

Yup, sure did. Those bolts are TIGHT to screw in! I had a box-end wrench looped onto the end of an extended allen wrench to tighten them down.

 

[gamorg02]

i think its 18 ft lbs ish, was it about that?

 

[Lotsokids]

i think its 18 ft lbs ish, was it about that?

I'm not sure what the torque was, but it took more than that to smoke them down and seat them. I could feel when they seated.

 

[Lotsokids]

Here's a picture taken tonight. WHAT A BLAST TO RIDE. With all this torque, I was looking around for stumps I could pull out.

 

[KJShover]

Great looking ride! :thumbs up:

Here's a picture taken tonight. WHAT A BLAST TO RIDE. With all this torque, I was looking around for stumps I could pull out.

 

[one2dmax]

Yep, when you get the Cobra's off there you'll find out what kind of power they are really capable of!

Sean

 

[Lotsokids]

Yep, when you get the Cobra's off there you'll find out what kind of power they are really capable of!

Is there a way to modify or alter the Cobra's to free up the flow? I LOVE the sound. No sound like it, except a Chevy 350.

 

[one2dmax]

There is no sound like a full header and once you get next to one you'll think your cobra's came off a pinto. And no, there is nothing you'll be able to do to get your cobra's to work well. They don't have any exhaust scavenging ability since they are a 4-4 system.

Sean

 

[tugla]

garrett so you think if i order itmes 6-11 should be what is needed on a chg for a starter clutch?

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/metricpartsoutlet/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=222&B=14

 

[ninjaneer]

garrett so you think if i order itmes 6-11 should be what is needed on a chg for a starter clutch?

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/metricpartsoutlet/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=222&B=14

imo, based on the typical fix for the "bag of stones", you'll probably only need 3 each of #11. Based on the various "starter clutch" threads, there is a chance (but a small one) that you would need to change out the plate in package #7, but you might want to consider going ahead and change out 10,9,8 of the package (3 each of these as well). In the very rare of circumstances would you need to change out #6. but this is an statistical observation based on the small amount of available reports.

if your pinching the pennies, and don't mind Max's innerds exposed to the elements while the parts are en route, you should just pop off the flywheel and inspect the various components (#6 through #10) and then place the order.

look at me, i've changed out one starter clutch and all of a sudden I think I know what I'm talking about.

geez

{EDIT} whoops, just reread your post specifying for garrett's input. sorry for the interruption.

 

[tugla]

yup good plan, parts take forever to get to me so maybe over winter, i have a feeling i will end up having to fix the starter clutch next year so just getting the jump on it. 8-11 easy enough to get and have and ya if i have to order the rest, just wait for them.

thanks

 

[gamorg02]

garrett so you think if i order itmes 6-11 should be what is needed on a chg for a starter clutch?

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/metricpartsoutlet/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=222&B=14

imo, based on the typical fix for the "bag of stones", you'll probably only need 3 each of #11. Based on the various "starter clutch" threads, there is a very slim chance that you would need to change out the plate in package #7, but you might want to consider changing out 10,9,8 (3 each of these as well). In the very rare of circumstances would you need to change out #6. but this is an statistical observation based on the small amount of available reports.

if your pinching the pennies, and don't mind Max's innerds exposed to the elements while the parts are en route, you should just pop off the flywheel and inspect the various components (#6 through #10) and then place the order.

look at me, i've changed out one starter clutch and all of a sudden I think I know what I'm talking about.

geez

{EDIT} whoops, just reread your post specifying for garrett's input. sorry for the interruption.

yup good plan, parts take forever to get to me so maybe over winter, i have a feeling i will end up having to fix the starter clutch next year so just getting the jump on it. 8-11 easy enough to get and have and ya if i have to order the rest, just wait for them.

thanks

all good info! my 2 cents would be as follows.

if you're doing it in the winter? just take it off and see where you are. if i had thought a head a bit more and had the cash i woulda replaced #6. it was starting to feel wavy and i bet didn't help the "dowels" grab on. there are used ones out there too, which may or may not be in better shape, i probably would buy new for that.

otherwise i dont' think the 'other parts (aside from #11 def get new OEM ones) really go 'bad' and could be salvaged from a used one if yours are shot. morley has good prices on them, and in all actuality you probably won't need the plate #7 as a whole...

i'd do it, see what you need and order from there, save yourself some shipping costs. i'm always willing to help ship something to you if it helps as well, you know that!

2 cents, deposited!

don't forget your cover gaskets (middle gear/stator) and that stupid crush washer if you're the type of guy who likes to replace them.

 

[tugla]

thanks for the deposit, so if new screws(11) and salvage the other little parts, what the hell wears out or causes the marble sound. mines not that bad yet but i do get a kick back on start sometimes and it does make a little noise, both bikes. so just prepping for when it goes. even if its in winter i usually dont have time to wait to order parts so rather have them sitting around waiting.
so nothing broken yet but what needs attention, just the screws and making sure they are not loose?

wish i did them when i had the cover off two years ago from that leaking cover seal. guess you have to pull the flywheel to get to those bolts eh?

 

[ninjaneer]

thanks for the deposit, so if new screws(11) and salvage the other little parts, what the hell wears out or causes the marble sound. ...

that loose marble sound is the result of loose #11s. the factory's tig welds break and the bolts flop around. so when you go to replace these, be sure to Red Locktite them and as well as peen their ends.

if you let the marble sound go for too long, then the #7 plate may start to develop a crack, necessitating its replacement. that is why i said earlier that there is a small chance one would have to replace it--that is if you catch/fix it ASAP.

NOTE: some will say that changing out the #8 springs is a worthwhile investment, but it's a discretionary call IMO.

guess you have to pull the flywheel to get to those bolts eh?

YEP

 

[tugla]

ok thanks ninja, i dont have the marble sound often, only when it doesnt start and gets the kick back off the compression, kinda when letting off the start switch too soon, most of the time my bike fires right up so hence the fast starter button release and once and a blue moon it needs that one last crank. But figured its gonna go one day so might aswell fix it.

might get lucky and just lock tight my old #11 and issue might be solved, what you think of that. if nothing is worn or cracked and its just lose screws, wouldnt that fix it?

 

[ninjaneer]

ok thanks ninja, i dont have the marble sound often, only when it doesnt start and gets the kick back off the compression, kinda when letting off the start switch too soon, most of the time my bike fires right up so hence the fast starter button release and once and a blue moon it needs that one last crank. But figured its gonna go one day so might aswell fix it.

might get lucky and just lock tight my old #11 and issue might be solved, what you think of that. if nothing is worn or cracked and its just lose screws, wouldnt that fix it?

you know i'd like to think that i'm as frugal as the next scrooge, but i would think if the 11s are flopping around, that their structural integrity becomes questionable...then again i'm a paranoid SOB. i relinquish the floor to the professionals :rofl_200:

 

[tugla]

good point, for the cost, might aswell change them. well with the bike i got here, riding season is almost over, between being out of town and when i am here the weather heading south not much more time so prob work on it in the fall/winter when im bored.
still need a dam motorcycle lift as working on the floor sucks.

 

[gamorg02]

rovic, replace them eiher way. for them to back out usually the threads are garbaged up. they're $2-$3 a piece, its worth the money. with what your describing i bet you just need to get new ones, and tighten them up! i'd go oem vs the hardware store ones just because the OEM are shorter than what is readily available in that thread size.

 

[tugla]

oh ya for sure get the stock screws, a couple of gaskets and should be set. another good excuse to get a bike table, just dont have the room for it.