Slide Diaphragm Ok?

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vbmike

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Just wondering if this slide diaphragm is shot? It has a small rip near the edge but the rip does not go all the way through. Otherwise the rubber still seems pliable.
 

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i remember someone "salvaging" one of his that was minorly disfigured like that. something like silcone? or epoxy? or something. i forget who did, maybe it was specops, or patmax, oh i don't know, but i'm sure he'll speak his mind shortly. :)
 
I've done it to my Seca's. I use black RTV and smooth it out as much as possible with a wet finger.
 
Same here. But, you can try the RTV thing which some have had luck with.

Sean
 
That's the spot where they usually begin to fail, being the point of maximum flex as the diaphram moves. It looks like there is a hairline crack extending away from the bad spot, if that's the case, RTV may get you a little more time but they will ultimately fail at some other point along the circumference.

I'd replace them.
 
hey i know someone else posted this in another thread, but i'll go ahead a repost:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_LpxYHi5Zg


it shows you how to remove the diaphragm from off of the slider. by doing this, one could save like beacoup bucks by not having to buy the assembly whole $100 assembly and just the diaphragm. but i don't know who sources just the diaphragm
 
Here is the link to the guy who sells them oh Ebay............

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DIAP...2449860QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Last set I bought the bid ran up to about 87 bucks shipped........this one/link has 4 days left to bid. If you decide to dissamble slides to do the install DO NOT USE GORILLA GLUE ON REASSEMBLE, the expansion rate is so great it will bust open your slides. However you can use it for diaphram repairs.
 
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hey i know someone else posted this in another thread, but i'll go ahead a repost:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_LpxYHi5Zg


it shows you how to remove the diaphragm from off of the slider. by doing this, one could save like beacoup bucks by not having to buy the assembly whole $100 assembly and just the diaphragm. but i don't know who sources just the diaphragm

Just be very careful doing this, spray some WD-40 around the top of the slide and let it sit for a few days. I use a small broom handle that will fit inside the slide, then tap the other end on the floor.....I'm running about a 75% success rate, the slide shatters on the other 25%....they're very brittle! :bang head:
 
Here is the link to the guy who sells them oh Ebay............

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DIAP...2449860QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Last set I bought the bid ran up to about 87 buck shipped........this one/link has 4 days left to bid. If you decide to dissamble slides to do the install DO NOT USE GORILLA GLUE ON REASSEMBLE, the expansion rate is so great it will bust open your slides. However you can use it for diaphram repairs.

Joe, these slides are 100% rubber, not rubber over material like the OEM ones....although I don't see why they wouldn't perform just as well.
 
Yes they are completely rubber and not as pliable as OEM, but I have installed several sets for friends and they seem to have no issues so far. I have a set on my bike and they seem to work well, but like you say there are not as pliable as OEM. I made a mark at the end on top of one of the slides with some thick grease to see if slides fully retracted a WOT slipped the air box on, went WOT, and they did fully retract. I don't have any problems with midrange or reports from any of the other installs I have done. But should I start having any king of carb issues, that will be the first place I look. Thanks for the info dannymax...........Joe
 
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I've had zero luck so far on getting them apart without destroying the slides. I'll try the WD40 thing and or penetrating oil and see if that helps.

Sean
 
The best way to disassemble, that I use is to find a deep well 12 PT socket and an 4 or 6 inch extension 3/8 drive, that fits into the slide easily. Then find a pice of pipe or PVC that the slide fits into kinda snug. The pipe or PVC has to be perfectly square on the top and bottom so the slide recieves no irregular stress on any point of slide structure while tapping with small light hammer. By useing a deep well socket that fits into slide rather snugly you don't have to remove retainer screw which holds the needle in place , because the deepwell socket (12 Point) does not come into contact with retainer screw. Use light taps with hammer and as soon as you see the gap start to open up you can usually stop hammering a pull the rest apart with you hands. Reassembly ,Clean retainer ring which held diaphram into place fine grit sandpaper until retainer fits into slide with very little resistance. You have to be carefull of the type of glue which you use on reasseble and not to use an abundce, If you notice on dissasembly they used a thin glue you don't want glue oozing out from under the retainer ring after assy, it must be resistant to petrolium products but still make a strong bond. Reassemble and making sure you have the diaphram facing inthe right direction and not upside down and the plastic washer with recess facing in the right direction. I take the deep well socket off the extension, turn socket with 3/8 drive facing up towards you insert the needle end into the small end of socket on a flat surface and give the retainer a few very, very small taps to ensure tightness. I always use a small soft piece of wood to tap with. I have had a 100% rate of istalling diaphrams with this method. If any one else has tampered with diaphrams , I usually send them away or let them tap the retainer out, then if it breaks their slides, the cost is on them not me.


Just be very careful doing this, spray some WD-40 around the top of the slide and let it sit for a few days. I use a small broom handle that will fit inside the slide, then tap the other end on the floor.....I'm running about a 75% success rate, the slide shatters on the other 25%....they're very brittle! :bang head:
 
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Sounds good Joe, the PVC on the outside gives added support plus a good way to make sure the stresses on the slide are applied evenly....the tighter the PVC sleeve is (within reason, of course) the better it will work, I would think.

Now to figure out what Yammhammer uses for adhesive on those collars....and a good way to break it down and we may have this solved!


The best way to disassemble, that I use is to find a deep well 12 PT socket and an 4 or 6 inch extension 3/8 drive, that fits into the slide easily. Then find a pice of pipe or PVC that the slide fits into kinda snug. The pipe or PVC has to be perfectly square on the top and bottom so the slide recieves no irregular stress on any point of slide structure while tapping with small light hammer. By useing a deep well socket that fits into slide rather snugly you don't have to remove retainer screw which holds the needle in place , because the deepwell socket (12 Point) does not come into contact with retainer screw. Use light taps with hammer and as soon as you see the gap start to open up you can usually stop hammering a pull the rest apart with you hands. Reassembly ,Clean retainer ring which held diaphram into place fine grit sandpaper until retainer fits into slide with very little resistance. You have to be carefull of the type of glue which you use on reasseble and not to use an abundce, If you notice on dissasembly they used a thin glue you don't want glue oozing out from under the retainer ring after assy, it must be resistant to petrolium products but still make a strong bond. Reassemble the making sure you have the diaphram facing inthe right direction and not upside down and the plastic washer with recess facing in the right direction. I take the deep well socket off the extension, turn socket with 3/8 drive facing up towards you insert the needle end into the small end of socket on a flat surface and give the retainer a few very, very small taps to ensure tightness. I always use a small soft piece of wood to tap with. I have had a 100% rate of istalling diaphrams with this method. If any one else has tampered with diaphrams , I usually send them away or let them tap the retainer out, then if it breaks their slides, the cost is on them not me.
 
The best way to disassemble, that I use is to find a deep well 12 PT socket and an 4 or 6 inch extension 3/8 drive, that fits into the slide easily. Then find a pice of pipe or PVC that the slide fits into kinda snug. The pipe or PVC has to be perfectly square on the top and bottom so the slide recieves no irregular stress on any point of slide structure while tapping with small light hammer. By useing a deep well socket that fits into slide rather snugly you don't have to remove retainer screw which holds the needle in place , because the deepwell socket (12 Point) does not come into contact with retainer screw. Use light taps with hammer and as soon as you see the gap start to open up you can usually stop hammering a pull the rest apart with you hands. Reassembly ,Clean retainer ring which held diaphram into place fine grit sandpaper until retainer fits into slide with very little resistance. You have to be carefull of the type of glue which you use on reasseble and not to use an abundce, If you notice on dissasembly they used a thin glue you don't want glue oozing out from under the retainer ring after assy, it must be resistant to petrolium products but still make a strong bond. Reassemble the making sure you have the diaphram facing inthe right direction and not upside down and the plastic washer with recess facing in the right direction. I take the deep well socket off the extension, turn socket with 3/8 drive facing up towards you insert the needle end into the small end of socket on a flat surface and give the retainer a few very, very small taps to ensure tightness. I always use a small soft piece of wood to tap with. I have had a 100% rate of istalling diaphrams with this method. If any one else has tampered with diaphrams , I usually send them away or let them tap the retainer out, then if it breaks their slides, the cost is on them not me.

:punk:gold! saving this one! but man :pics:would help.
 
Sounds good. So does anyone have a recommendation on a type of glue to use to hold the sliders together?
 
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