Slow battery discharge problem

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Put a shift-i on and if I'm normally getting 2-3 of 7 lights on it at key turn (not running). If I'm reading the manual correctly that means I'm only getting 10-11 volts out of it? Once the bike starts I'll see 4 and if I rev the bike 5 lights (12-13 volts) so the charging seems fine.

I have to turn the key to get the meter on so that means I'm powering the headlight, servo's, etc. Is 10-11 normal with 'key on' load? Or should I consider picking up a new battery? If not for the meter... I wouldn't suspect anything is wrong. Turns over first try every time (with appropriate choke).
 
Put a shift-i on and if I'm normally getting 2-3 of 7 lights on it at key turn (not running). If I'm reading the manual correctly that means I'm only getting 10-11 volts out of it? Once the bike starts I'll see 4 and if I rev the bike 5 lights (12-13 volts) so the charging seems fine.

I have to turn the key to get the meter on so that means I'm powering the headlight, servo's, etc. Is 10-11 normal with 'key on' load? Or should I consider picking up a new battery? If not for the meter... I wouldn't suspect anything is wrong. Turns over first try every time (with appropriate choke).
Hi-Jack Threads Much ???
Go read this for the appropriate Voltages at 1000 RPM and 2500+ RPM:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19108
 
Sorry - seemed it was resolved and this was loosely related. Thanks for the pointer though I had done a few searches for voltage and battery and somehow missed that thread.
 
OK, so I just disconnected the + cable from the battery, and put my volt meter between the + cable, and the + post on the batt. Got a reading of 9.48v!!!! Suspecting the voltage regulator, I unplugged the connector on the red wire behind the side cover, and near the gas tank,. The meter dropped to 0! NOW, being I'm not too far from a motorcycle wrecker, I can get any regulator I want. Which one would be the best???
 
One last check you could do is to set the meter up for AC Voltage on 100 volts or so and check the 3 wire Stator Connector. White Wires in a somewhat triangular pattern connector coming from under the middle gear cover. Disconnect the connectors. Test the wires coming from the engine side to each other. 3 readings should all be close to each other between 19 volts at idle and 50 or so at higher rpm. Checking them at idle will tell you all you need to know. 19 or more volts means your Stator is good. Just a thought.
 
I already installed anold Honda CB900 regulator I had sitting around. Got 15.1v charge rate out of it (junk) but there is no draw on the battery anymore.
 
Slightly, but recharge the battery fully and check the output again with the cooling fan switch jumped out so the fan will also be energized. Make sure the regulator has a good ground because thats how it gets rid of voltage not needed. Thats what I read in a different electrical thread.
 
Thanks! Yesterday was not really a fair test. I just wired this r/r to my bike in a temporary fashion to test this Honda Shinundau r/r. My battery was dead, so I used another powersports battery to boost the bike, then unhooked it once the bike was running. I also only held the green ground wire to a frame bolt. Theres some pretty good voltage coming from that ground wire, as it dumps the excess to ground!!! I'm going to solder the +, and stator leads to the stock connectors, and run an even heavier guage wire from the r/r ground to the ground bolt located just above the battery - post. Good plan???
 
If that R/R is really sending 15.1 Volts to the battery I wouldn't use it.
That just seems too high to me and I'd think it could actually damage the battery in the long run.
My trickle charger maxes out at 14.4 Volts when charging and my R/R puts out 14.4-14.5 Volts @ 2500+ RPM.

Check it with it connected like the stock R/R was and see if it really is charging at 15.1 or if it's more like 14.4-14.5 like our bike wants/needs.

I personally did this (with the stock 2000 Vmax R/R):
3.2: Find your R/R. If you have an older bike, there will be 4 wires....3 from the stator and one + output (grounded through it's mount). If you have a newer model, there will be five (grounded through a wire).
Older model: Remove the R/R and clean around the base to ensure a good connection. Grab the red + output wire and cut it, leaving enough slack to re-splice it but as close to the R/R as you feel comfortable. Find the connector between the R/R and the harness, and remove the now useless end. Tape or otherwise cover the harness end connector. Strip the end, and get a wire gauge slightly larger than what's there (I used 14awg). Use another end connector, and run the wire directly to the + post of the battery. Put a ring connector on the end and bolt it directly to the post.
Newer model: Same as above, but do the same procedure for both the + output and - ground wires. Cut them out of the harness and wire them directly to the battery.

Doing this bypasses the notorious "crimp" in the harness entirely.


I didn't bother doing anything to the Ground wire since the R/R was putting out 1.4-14.5 Volts after I did that.
 
From what I have read 14.5 v is optimal. +or - .5v is acceptable. 15.1 is damned close. I already cut the connectors off the stock reg.,as I discovered it was draining my battery overnight. Must have been shorted inside. This all took place after I washed the bike..
 
From what I have read 14.5 v is optimal. +or - .5v is acceptable. 15.1 is damned close. I already cut the connectors off the stock reg.,as I discovered it was draining my battery overnight. Must have been shorted inside. This all took place after I washed the bike..

typical! I think hosing the max is about the worst you can do to it...found out the hard way...
 
LOL! Ya, considering I only cleaned off the wheels, brakes, and exhaust with a garden hose!
 
so now that i get this r/r all soldered in, and looking real good, it's charging 17-18v......F!!!!
 
nope. battery was showing12.63v, and has been for a couple days now. Bike fired right up too
 
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