Solid Motor Mount Install

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
All evening, but I got er done on my own. A long pry bar was really helpful - I got the end between the frame and the outside of the mounting bracket on the back, and was able to clear the mount pretty easily with that. I actually had a much harder time with the front top mounts - the threaded rod did NOT want to go back through.

Looking forward to seeing what difference it makes!
 
hmm. we didn't have a crow bar, but i couldn't lift the rear of the engine anymore b/c it was hitting that cross bar. did u leave the front lower left bolt attached?

and what do u mean the threaded rod back thru? it was really easy for me...
 
"Anyway, for anyone else planning to do this - make sure you replace the mounts with the right sized new ones!!!"
Dave, you just mean the right solid mounts in the right place and not all new bolts?
 
i gotta imagine thats what he meant. i used all the same bolts.
 
Ya you got it

I actually replaced both of the front lower mounts before doing the rears, and left the front top mount brackets empty. That way the engine tilted up enough for me to replace both rear mounts at the same time. Like I said, I was working with just engine and frame, so that must have made a difference. Which cross bar were you hitting? I had no real problems with clearance.
 
i was hitting this one b/c i was pivoting on the lower left bolt/mount still being in. was that removed for you, or did you keep that mount/bolt in to pivot? mine was also a new solid one.
 

Attachments

  • YA-3JPX100-9210.jpg
    YA-3JPX100-9210.jpg
    47.3 KB
I had both lower front mounts/bolts in to pivot when I replaced the rear mounts. Not sure why I didn't have problems with that cross brace, but it worked :ummm:
 
the lower right downtube wasn't attached though right? so the lower right mount didnt' do anything?
 
Just a few comments from my experience:

Just before removing the swingarm i slid the axle back in place. I also left the left side shock in place but removed the fasters. The axle gave me a good hand hold and the shock held it from falling to the ground once the bolts were removed from the pivot point.

Before jacking the motor up to install the rear mounts I uplugged the spark plug boots and removed the heat shield over the rear cylinders. I left the front one in place but removed the straps holding it to the rad hoses. I removed the electrical panel from the left side and popped the clutch line out of its holder in the frame.

As far as removing and installing the new rear mounts I did mine a bit different than shown here. I removed all the engine mounting bolts, I did not leave the front left one in place as suggested here. I placed a floor jack under the oil pan and a piece of wood on top the jack and jacked the whole motor up in the frame. This allowed me space to shift the motor around and it gave me plenty of clearance to get the rear mounts in.

If you have COO frame sliders they will not work without modifying the lower right side mount! I found this out AFTER installing the solid mounts and had to remove it, modify it, and then reinstall. The modification is simple. You just need to trim an edge off of the mount so it looks like one of the OE ones. It only took about 15 seconds with my angle grinder and a cutting wheel. Then I dressed it with a fine file. When you intall the modified mount you need to make sure you orientate the flat edge properly.
 
As far as removing and installing the new rear mounts I did mine a bit different than shown here. I removed all the engine mounting bolts, I did not leave the front left one in place as suggested here. I placed a floor jack under the oil pan and a piece of wood on top the jack and jacked the whole motor up in the frame. This allowed me space to shift the motor around and it gave me plenty of clearance to get the rear mounts in.

i tried it that way after trying it leaving in the bolt. only way the rears cleared it properly.
 
Did my SMM today, got them all in no problem thanks to your instructions!

Ran out of bloody daylight though, had to give up before finishing reassembly. I'll get it done tomorrow, and fit my new rear wave rotor and HEL clutch line while I'm at it.

Can't wait to ride and see how much of a difference they make :)
 
installed solid motor mounts on my 1300 and have to say I don't have any uncomfort at all. I took it up to 120 with no vibe issues :)
 
This is my weekend project. I have had the mounts for over a month. Yesterday I unboxed my new UFO 4-1 dragstar that is Sunday's event. Wishing I still had a garage, my shed is small, but it is supposed to be a nice day. I am very excited to get my hands dirty this weekend......:eusa_dance:
 
So glad my pics and stuff have helped... kinda feel like I have given back to the community that has helped me soooo much hehe.. now where are the warm temps to get rid of this snow... I wanna boooooost

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 
Finished today, I could read the steps too well in my shed while I worked. The mistake I made was removing my swing arm.. Pain in the ass to reinstall. I think I lost the washer on the right side, guess I will be going to the dealership tomorrow.... I also found I was missing a footpeg mounting bolt. I am sure that if I hadn't been changing out my exhaust also I wouldn't have ever got my end pipes to come off. 24 years of rust were a pain in the butt.....but with all the work I have been doing it make me happy to work on my bike, not pay someone else to do it....
 
So I had completed changing these out prior to riding this year. It seems like the bike is more responsive. And yes I notice the viberations in my hands more. Which is better Stock or solid? I kind of wonder if most people seem to change them and why. I have to replace my handle bars and grips, my gribs were/ are foam and there is little to no foam left.. SO right now too much viberation in hands...
 
Back
Top