Well I'm gonna try moving the coil around today and see if the problem follows it and I'm also gonna tighten the gap. If the coil is trashed I need to pick up another set quick but I'm not gonna hold Gannon to it because I was running the gap too wide (Guess I shoulda read the directions) and I noticed after I installed them that they were arcing to the head a little bit on the metal part just above the boot so I wrapped the metal part of the coil that was arcing to the head with black electrical tape, maybe I was stressing the coils too much by running too wide of a gap? As far as going to the last change goes, I diid so much over the winter that it's basically impossible, stretched the swingarm, solid mounts, ported the heads, valve job, relashed the valves, hd oiling kit, and the list goes on.... I kinda went apeshit... LOL
Someone help me before I push this thing over a cliff....
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Well I'm gonna try moving the coil around today and see if the problem follows it and I'm also gonna tighten the gap. If the coil is trashed I need to pick up another set quick but I'm not gonna hold Gannon to it because I was running the gap too wide (Guess I shoulda read the directions) and I noticed after I installed them that they were arcing to the head a little bit on the metal part just above the boot so I wrapped the metal part of the coil that was arcing to the head with black electrical tape, maybe I was stressing the coils too much by running too wide of a gap? As far as going to the last change goes, I diid so much over the winter that it's basically impossible, stretched the swingarm, solid mounts, ported the heads, valve job, relashed the valves, hd oiling kit, and the list goes on.... I kinda went apeshit... LOL
TurcoLoco
Well-Known Member
Moving the coil around is a good troubleshooting step and that will probably give you more clues as to what was the culprit.
Of course I meant the relevant ones, something like stretched swing arm could not -presumably- be a factor, right?
Over here the fellas call it "getting bitten by the Mod Monkey" which explains why you went ape shit!
:biglaugh:
Ok, wet float levels are good... I tightened the plug gap to .26" with brand new plugs and swapped the coil around and that did help, there is still a misfire there but not as noticeable but was still fat on number 4... Then I swapped the harness with the resistor in it from number 4 to number 2 and it cleared up even more... It's pretty rideable now so this evening I'm just gonna ride it some and see if its still fat on 4 or if it changed.. either way I'm sure its in the ignition now so its either the harnesses I got from Gannon or the Dyna is messing up.. I also tested the ohms on all the coils and they are all the same .16 I believe. Has anybody actually fried a Dyna from running COP's with no resistors?
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Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
one2dmax
Well-Known Member
Sometimes the dyna's go bad all by themselves.
I was afraid you were gonna say that Sean :tantrum: That damn thing wasn't cheap either!! Also gotta get ahold of Pingle, the solenoid on my air shifter is leaking air... Don't know if they offer a rebuild kit for it but that damn thing is barely over a year old too... I should have stuck with cars... LOL
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
Yup, I believe they have. I think that's why the resistors were added (for the Dyna and the older ignitions).
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Ok I was just wondering, those resistors get damn hot!!I'm gonna ride it and see what happens but the next step is to pull the Dyna and put my stock computer back in.. Does Dyna do any warranty work Sean? I'll be pretty pissed if it's the Dyna and they don't fix it cause that thing is less than 2 years old...
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
SRK468 I dont know if you drink or not but if you do you need to take a couple shots of bushmills with a labatt chaser and hope for a better day. It will come to you. Car's cost even more to get 10s to 11s And just in case this shot and beer is for you. Hope things get better for you.
mattmullins
Well-Known Member
Well if you can't figure it out just push over to my garage not the cliff
Figures.... I won't buy another one if that's the case then... Wasn't someone else doing a programable computer for our bikes? All I really wanted was the damn rev limiter anyways... I'm not a big drinker Mike, I'm used to bad luck though... I know my way around cars well and yes they are even more expensive but this stuff is what I love so its worth it to me... Matt, it was a figure of speech bud! LOL
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"srk468," I know your problem. You've been hitting that Niles Brandywine too-hard!:biglaugh: It clouds your judgement, and makes you more-prone to mistakes like not reading directions. Plus, the hangovers!
I have used Dyna S ignitions on bikes (Kawi 4's) and haven't had one go bad, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. If you reinstall your stocker and your problems go-away, then the likelihood is that's the problem, right? Given that you don't have a wiring problem between the crank sensor and the plug-into the bike harness. I think if that was the case, it wouldn't only be one cyl, though. My experience is that ignition modules are like light switches, either they work or they don't. I am sure there must be some malfunction to allow what you are experiencing to occur, if it is in-fact the module. You might try sending the module back to Dyna and ask them to examine its function, I would think it's no big deal to them to bench-test it. If it is bad, they may offer you a reduced-price on an exchange, it doesn't hurt to try (since it's out of warranty). Even if they shut you down on a bench test, at least you tried. When items go bad, the engineers like to know how it occurred, the duty cycle, age of the unit, etc. all those things go into six-sigma TQM manufacturing practices, warranty duration calculation, production line practices, etc.
I have used Dyna S ignitions on bikes (Kawi 4's) and haven't had one go bad, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. If you reinstall your stocker and your problems go-away, then the likelihood is that's the problem, right? Given that you don't have a wiring problem between the crank sensor and the plug-into the bike harness. I think if that was the case, it wouldn't only be one cyl, though. My experience is that ignition modules are like light switches, either they work or they don't. I am sure there must be some malfunction to allow what you are experiencing to occur, if it is in-fact the module. You might try sending the module back to Dyna and ask them to examine its function, I would think it's no big deal to them to bench-test it. If it is bad, they may offer you a reduced-price on an exchange, it doesn't hurt to try (since it's out of warranty). Even if they shut you down on a bench test, at least you tried. When items go bad, the engineers like to know how it occurred, the duty cycle, age of the unit, etc. all those things go into six-sigma TQM manufacturing practices, warranty duration calculation, production line practices, etc.
I'm really leaning toward it being the harnesses for the COP's, I moved that harness to another cylinder and moved the coil to yet another cylinder but I have to just ride it for awhile to be sure but I can tell you it actually sounds right at idle now (you could even hear it at idle before) I was going to go for a ride last night but by the time I was done getting everything done around here I was smoked and the couch got me... LOL Like I said it's definitely in the ignition, just gotta nail down what part....
Ok I'm more confused now than ever... :bang head: I still had the misfire so I swapped back on my stock computer but left the COP's on and their harnesses and I could tell one cylinder wasn't firing... Then I seen smoke coming from under the seat so I killed it and ripped the seat off and found that the resistor on number one harness was what was smoking.. I pulled that coil and harness off and put a stock coil on and now I have no spark on number 1 at all :bang head: I did find a small bare spot on the factory harness but couldn't see that it was arcing on anything and I just taped it up for now... Do the stock coils have to be bolted down to be grounded? I never bolted it down I just had it hanging in there... All other cylinders look great but as soon as I put the stock computer in I had no fire in number one... I'm hoping I didn't fry my stock computer...
TurcoLoco
Well-Known Member
Can you go back to the stock coils/HT Leads and see if you still have the same problem?
Also, you are certain that you have the coils connected correctly? The back ones are direct, meaning each coil connection goes to the closest connector but in the front they are crossed, if the front ones are not in the X position then the connections are reversed.
Also, you are certain that you have the coils connected correctly? The back ones are direct, meaning each coil connection goes to the closest connector but in the front they are crossed, if the front ones are not in the X position then the connections are reversed.
Cylinders 2,3&4 are sparking but number one is dead.. I left the COP's on 2,3&4 and just hooked a factory coil to number 1 and I don't have anything... There is 12 volts to the factory harness but no real way to check the signal... It's the orange wire on mine that's number 1 (the one I'm having a problem with) and by the wiring diagram it runs straight to the computer... I tried the stock computer before and it ran like shit but I thought it was because of the resistors so I just shut it off quick and put the Dyna back on... I'm betting if I go out and put the Dyna back on it will run like it did before (decent but not right) but I know my factory computer was good when I took it off, I just wanted the Dyna for a rev limiter... I'm confused....
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TurcoLoco
Well-Known Member
Unless you get another puter, it will be hard to check the signals. That is why I mentioned going back to stock:
- Computer
- Coils
- Harness/Leads
And see what happened but logically, if that misfiring coil connector is getting power then it should be due to either bad coil, plug or computer signal. Since you used the same coil, harness and plug elsewhere and they worked fine, Dyna is the only remaining variable, am I wrong?
- Computer
- Coils
- Harness/Leads
And see what happened but logically, if that misfiring coil connector is getting power then it should be due to either bad coil, plug or computer signal. Since you used the same coil, harness and plug elsewhere and they worked fine, Dyna is the only remaining variable, am I wrong?
Could there have been a bad earth created when you did all that work on it? The symptoms you are describing are seemingly unconnected, which is sort of typical of a bad earth.
I don't see any reason having 1 normal coil wouldn't work, but it is possible that the ignition won't work with a mixture of coils. I would earth the coil anyway!
I don't see any reason having 1 normal coil wouldn't work, but it is possible that the ignition won't work with a mixture of coils. I would earth the coil anyway!
88vmx12
Well-Known Member
Change all or none of them, You do not want to run a stock coil with the rest being the conversion. It might put too much strain on the ignition. I am not for sure but I am thinking could be bad joooo joooo
88vmx12
Well-Known Member
I can send you a new set of harnesses if you need to try them against the original set. The resitor can get hot but not generally horribly hot. If you are melting things down then there might be another issues. Did you buy the coils from me too?
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