spark plug change

[child_of_fire]

Spark plugs look like a pain in the ass...is it necessary at 25k miles?

 

[MaxMidnight]

Given that Yameringha specify replacement every 8K then yes.

It's only difficult if you don't have the correct tools.
Time to open your wallet!

 

[one2dmax]

The gen 2 plugs will last quite a long time. If it's running well then keep going. I have some pics around here of the tools I used to greatly reduce the repalcement time

 

[Tony Strange]

The gen 2 plugs will last quite a long time. If it's running well then keep going. I have some pics around here of the tools I used to greatly reduce the repalcement time

Following

 

[sdt354]

My Gen 1 always thanks me for a fresh set of NGK's. Once a year for me, even if they still are useable.

 

[Itgoes]

The gen 2 plugs will last quite a long time. If it's running well then keep going. I have some pics around here of the tools I used to greatly reduce the repalcement time

+1......besides the plugs in your bike have already been replaced once. That was a waste of time and money because the ones that came out could have gone right back in.

Changing them is a PITA, but if you are determined to do it you just need a couple of hours and probably just one inexpensive tool that you may not have.

 

[child_of_fire]

do you remember when they were done mark? i have no record in the log book of that specific item. i figured you did but it was not written down.

 

[Itgoes]

do you remember when they were done mark? i have no record in the log book of that specific item. i figured you did but it was not written down.

I don't remember exactly but my guess would be sometime around the recommended interval, 12K miles.

I don't know of anyone who pulled their plugs and said "Wow they really needed to be changed". They are iridium which go 100K miles in passenger cars with no problems.

If you decide to do it let me know I can give you some tips.

You have the factory tools.....correct? There is a spark plug socket that works well that's included.

 

[Traumahawk]

I don't remember exactly but my guess would be sometime around the recommended interval, 12K miles.

I don't know of anyone who pulled their plugs and said "Wow they really needed to be changed". They are iridium which go 100K miles in passenger cars with no problems.

If you decide to do it let me know I can give you some tips.

You have the factory tools.....correct? There is a spark plug socket that works well that's included.

Mark, do you know where to get a replacement spark plug tool if need be?

 

[Itgoes]

Mark, do you know where to get a replacement spark plug tool if need be?

https://www.google.com/search?q=2S3...69i60j69i61.1387j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Price is kind of ridiculous, but it's the right tool for the job.

It came in a separate pouch other than the main tool kit.

The best way to use it is with a ratcheting box wrench (can't remember what size...14 MM maybe?) because the clearance above is so tight. After it's loose you can usually spin it out using your fingers on the knurling. It has rubber in the socket for holding the plug.

Pulling the COPS can be a real hassle.....they are stuck on there good. If you have a good compressor you can try this trick.
That worked for 3 of the 4 COPS on my first Max.

 

[ShawnD]

+1......besides the plugs in your bike have already been replaced once. That was a waste of time and money because the ones that came out could have gone right back in.

Changing them is a PITA, but if you are determined to do it you just need a couple of hours and probably just one inexpensive tool that you may not have.

This was my situation when replacing plugs because I thought one of them was going bad. They all looked fine. The only tools I used was a metric plug socket, 3 extensions & a universal joint to reach the left front cylinder plug from the right side through the frame. The two rear cylinders only needed long extensions, the front right only needed the socket. The ecu & battery box have to come out for the rear cylinders. My experience was, except for the front left plug, getting them out wasn't that difficult. If memory serves correct, I had the plug socket-short extension-universal joint, two long extensions-wrench & once I got it onto the plug, removal was relatively simple. Used an extension magnet to pull them out. The part that was the most troublesome for me was getting the plugs back into the cylinder & starting to thread on that left front cylinder. I didn't trust using the wrench to start it, possibly jacking up the threads if I couldn't get it started straight. Ended up taking a length of pvc hose attached to the end of the plug & got the threads started...you can feel when it starts crooked, doesn't want to spin. Took a few attempts but once they started I just pull the hose off & finish with the wrench. I don't plan on changing them again for a very long time. My running problems had nothing to do with the plugs. Either a malfunctioning or bad map on a PCV was the likely issue. Pulling that PCV & getting a Nash flash cured everything.

 

[Traumahawk]

https://www.google.com/search?q=2S3...69i60j69i61.1387j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Price is kind of ridiculous, but it's the right tool for the job.

It came in a separate pouch other than the main tool kit.

The best way to use it is with a ratcheting box wrench (can't remember what size...14 MM maybe?) because the clearance above is so tight. After it's loose you can usually spin it out using your fingers on the knurling. It has rubber in the socket for holding the plug.

Pulling the COPS can be a real hassle.....they are stuck on there good. If you have a good compressor you can try this trick.
That worked for 3 of the 4 COPS on my first Max.

Thanks Mark. I had looked for a while, and couldnt find the part number. As with most things, I just didnt ask the right people.

 

[Traumahawk]

This was my situation when replacing plugs because I thought one of them was going bad. They all looked fine. The only tools I used was a metric plug socket, 3 extensions & a universal joint to reach the left front cylinder plug from the right side through the frame. The two rear cylinders only needed long extensions, the front right only needed the socket. The ecu & battery box have to come out for the rear cylinders. My experience was, except for the front left plug, getting them out wasn't that difficult. If memory serves correct, I had the plug socket-short extension-universal joint, two long extensions-wrench & once I got it onto the plug, removal was relatively simple. Used an extension magnet to pull them out. The part that was the most troublesome for me was getting the plugs back into the cylinder & starting to thread on that left front cylinder. I didn't trust using the wrench to start it, possibly jacking up the threads if I couldn't get it started straight. Ended up taking a length of pvc hose attached to the end of the plug & got the threads started...you can feel when it starts crooked, doesn't want to spin. Took a few attempts but once they started I just pull the hose off & finish with the wrench. I don't plan on changing them again for a very long time. My running problems had nothing to do with the plugs. Either a malfunctioning or bad map on a PCV was the likely issue. Pulling that PCV & getting a Nash flash cured everything.

Ive always used a piece of fuel line for the very same reason. The moment that the spark plug starts to get cross threaded, the hose will just spin.

 

[child_of_fire]

I don't remember exactly but my guess would be sometime around the recommended interval, 12K miles.

I don't know of anyone who pulled their plugs and said "Wow they really needed to be changed". They are iridium which go 100K miles in passenger cars with no problems.

If you decide to do it let me know I can give you some tips.

You have the factory tools.....correct? There is a spark plug socket that works well that's included.

just wanted to confirm they were iridium. they work great so im not going to mess with it for now. thank you.

 

[Itgoes]

just wanted to confirm they were iridium. they work great so im not going to mess with it for now. thank you.

You're welcome!

 

[Traumahawk]

https://www.google.com/search?q=2S3...69i60j69i61.1387j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Price is kind of ridiculous, but it's the right tool for the job.

It came in a separate pouch other than the main tool kit.

The best way to use it is with a ratcheting box wrench (can't remember what size...14 MM maybe?) because the clearance above is so tight. After it's loose you can usually spin it out using your fingers on the knurling. It has rubber in the socket for holding the plug.

Pulling the COPS can be a real hassle.....they are stuck on there good. If you have a good compressor you can try this trick.
That worked for 3 of the 4 COPS on my first Max.

How did you get the one out that you couldnt get out with compressed air?

 

[Itgoes]

How did you get the one out that you couldnt get out with compressed air?

Pry bar with some rubber or wood in the right places to avoid any damage will work if you cant muscle it off.

 

[satriani]

This was my situation when replacing plugs because I thought one of them was going bad. They all looked fine. The only tools I used was a metric plug socket, 3 extensions & a universal joint to reach the left front cylinder plug from the right side through the frame. The two rear cylinders only needed long extensions, the front right only needed the socket. The ecu & battery box have to come out for the rear cylinders. My experience was, except for the front left plug, getting them out wasn't that difficult. If memory serves correct, I had the plug socket-short extension-universal joint, two long extensions-wrench & once I got it onto the plug, removal was relatively simple. Used an extension magnet to pull them out. The part that was the most troublesome for me was getting the plugs back into the cylinder & starting to thread on that left front cylinder. I didn't trust using the wrench to start it, possibly jacking up the threads if I couldn't get it started straight. Ended up taking a length of pvc hose attached to the end of the plug & got the threads started...you can feel when it starts crooked, doesn't want to spin. Took a few attempts but once they started I just pull the hose off & finish with the wrench. I don't plan on changing them again for a very long time. My running problems had nothing to do with the plugs. Either a malfunctioning or bad map on a PCV was the likely issue. Pulling that PCV & getting a Nash flash cured everything.

there is a video on youtube that shows how to do it but that left front cylinder is a pain on the arse i know first hand i did mine with the original tool my problem was the plug kept falling in, believe me its not for the everday joe to do it a pain..

 

[02GF74]

The part that was the most troublesome for me was getting the plugs back into the cylinder & starting to thread on that left front cylinder. I didn't trust using the wrench to start it, possibly jacking up the threads if I couldn't get it started straight. Ended up taking a length of pvc hose attached to the end of the plug & got the threads started...you can feel when it starts crooked, doesn't want to spin. Took a few attempts but once they started I just pull the hose off & finish with the wrench.

Not a Gen 2 owner but that is exactly what I do, in my case I use the socket, which has a rubber ring inside to hold the plug on an extension for hard to reach plugs.

I turn the plug the ant clockwise and you can feel a step when the threads jump over each other and then start to turn clockwise by hand.

Not managed to cross thread a plug yet.

 

[Fire-medic]

I turn the plug counter-clockwise (Ed.), you can feel a step when the threads jump over each other. Then you should start to turn the sparkplug clockwise by hand. (edited for clarity-Ed.)

Yes, the traditional way to help avoid a cross-thread. It helps prevent downtime, frustration, and possible disassembly to fix it.