Stage 7 to Stage 3

[Vmaxx93]

I bought a 1997 Vmax with, I believe a stage 7 kit on it. This is a good kit for top end power but I'm looking for more low to mid range torque.
I used to have a Stage 3 on my 93 Vmax and it hauled ass.

Can I convert it back to a Stage 3? I have individual K&N filters and no air box.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Saml01]

I think there might be something wrong with the bike because my bike with stage 7 hauls plenty of ass.

 

[Bill Kratzenberg]

I think there might be something wrong with the bike because my bike with stage 7 hauls plenty of ass.

i agree with sam,i have stage 7 and my low and mid range are really strong

 

[shicks16]

Correct me if I am wring but I thought that there was only a stage 1 and stage 7 for the vmax

 

[RaWarrior]

Yeah, I don't think there was a stage 2 or 3 for the Vmax. Dynojet (which offers stage 1,2,3, and 7) only offers 1 and 7 for the Vmax.

1 does essentially nothing and is generally regarded as a waste of money. Mine with stage 1 and slip ons dyno'd at 114rwhp....within the margin of error of stock spec.

7 is designed for top end power above all.

I've heard the Muscle kit matches/exceeds the stage 7's top end, while doing better for overall driveability.

 

[88vmx12]

what about a stage 4.5? You know it was an improvement from the 4.0 LOL Sorry couldn't help it LMAO

Gannon

 

[tugla]

ya think talk to sean and get one of his set ups and you will be more then happy with it

 

[[email protected]]

Sounds like you may want to dig in and figure out what exactly you have going on. The bike should run fine with a stage 7. Its not uncommon to find that the previous owner did something wrong.

 

[SpecOps13]

I agree, took me quite some time to figure out the PO of my 89
had left part of a stage 7 installed/// PITA...

 

[Vmaxx93]

Ya, I do believe the carbs need to be cleaned out,mainly because of the crap fuel sold these days with the ethanol in it. I see you guys talking about the pea shooter and the shotgun cleaning methods where can I find info on that.

 

[Fire-medic]

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=11539&highlight=peashooter

Riding time is upon some of us and will be coming soon for the rest! It's the time for those issues caused by long term winter storage to start showing up.

Here's the link to the "Shotgun" method and a description of the "Peashooter" method. If your bike was running good when you put it away, but not so hot this spring, it's a good idea to try these things before going any further into the carbs.

They're great preventative measures also.

BG 44K is a nice product also for cleaning the entire system. I pour 1/3 can in each of my first three tankfuls of gas in the spring.

Shotgun: http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm

Peashooter:


Use the Pauls pea shooter method next time you start the bike. First find your self a simple syringe from a pet supply, pharmacy, even auto parts store. This will be needed to draw and squirt sea foam as explained in this tip. Remove filters or airbox, turn your pilot screws out 2 full turns. Choke on and start the bike, squirt sea foam in the choke vent at the top of carb, this will be the hole above the choke valve at the top of the carb. Do this while its running, no reving but keep it around 1500rpm.. now, once bike is warmed up turn choke off, squirt sea foam in the Pilot air jet #1.. this is the removeable jet at the top of the carburetor. Give it slight revs to allow the engines vacuum to draw the sea foam down the air circuit to clear it up.. if you should get sea foam into the carb throat dont worry about it, you will have some smoke out the exhaust is all but it wont hurt anything. Once done set the pilot screws back in 2 whole turn where you had them. You dont want to use compressed air to clear circuits. Compressed air can complicate things by forcing dirt into the circuit clogging things worse and once the enrichment ciruit is plugged you will have problems.
This is a pretty simple task but here are a couple pics if your in doubt.

Pilot screws may have brass factory plugs
To remove, use a small drill bit, wrap with tape to set depth ?", drill hole in center.
Screw a sheet metal screw into hole tight and wiggle plug out.
Use a rag to shield against brass fragments falling into
cylinder around plug area.
If pilot screws are binding (usually the right bank carbs will bind), STOP!
You do NOT want to strip these screws.
Get a can of PB-Blaster and a screw driver that fits tight in the screw slot with no play.
Remove another screw from one of the left bank carbs to size up a screw driver if needed.
Use BP-Blaster and forced air to loosen the screw, work screw back and forth.
Do not be in a hurry because these screw slots will strip out easy.
Use the PB-B when you feel resistance, take your time and know when to stop. Once the screw is loose, remove it, add some anit sieze to the threads and replace it back by reverse threading it till it seats,
once you feel a click proceed to screwing it in.

__________________
dan-o
VMOA # 5127