Started my swingarm project...

[gamorg02]

just make sure everything is plumb/level when you get it back and welded together:

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=14694

 

[srk468]

Ohh I've been being real careful, I had the wheel, diff, axle and all my spacers bolted on and torqued to spec when I finish welded it this morning. I used short beads to not let too much heat build up in one spot, I've done similar work welding brackets to rear end housings on cars before.. you can't get carried away or you'll warp the housing and eat up wheel bearings. I should have checked closer though, got it all finish welded and there is a hole in both ends on the small tube (rotor side) and seems in how the swingarm is going to be my air tank this presented a bit of a problem! LOL I cut out a neat square from the very front tube (where the swingarm pivots on the bike) big enough to get my welder torch through and plugged that one, then I welded the hole shut at the rear of the tube (by the pinch bolt) but that one was a bitch, had to use a die grinder to grind the weld flush to where the big end of the axle seats but its all good now, axle goes in just the way it should and everything lines up and spins nice and free when torqued to spec and it leaks no air pressure. Now I just have to reweld the little square I cut out of that front tube and start on the brace but I know its all gotta be torqued together for that too... I'm just taking my time cause I'm laid off and really have nothing else to do! LOL

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[one2dmax]

You'll need a small hole to vent heat until the very last. Otherwise you'll blow out the weld when doing the brace work and create a big hole you have to work shut.

Sean

 

[srk468]

Already got it covered Sean, I've already got the threaded insert installed for my air line so that will serve as a vent.

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[srk468]

Well got the tire mounted and it's tight but it fits! It's like putting a jigsaw puzzle together though, gotta pull the differential to put the tire on the bike, there is about 3/16" to 1/4" between the tire and the exposed shaft, gonna be super tight but I'll make it fit. In the pics I haven't moved the shocks forward the 3" yet so it's lowered about 2 1/2" but I'm putting it back to the factory location and using 12" shocks so it will only be lowered 1" when I'm done, now time to start on the new crossmember and underbrace unk:

 

[gamorg02]

very cool!

 

[srk468]

very cool!

Thanks Garret, I'm real happy with the way its coming together

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[Thevmaxrider]

I know you probably have thought of this, but is the shaft in the swingarm to ensure it fits? It appears that it will be extremely close to the notch.

 

[srk468]

I know you probably have thought of this, but is the shaft in the swingarm to ensure it fits? It appears that it will be extremely close to the notch.

Yes the shaft is in there, its definitely a tight fit but it will work. I'm actually out in the shop working a piece of thin metal to close it all up right now, with a modified stock swingarm I think this truly is as big of tire that will fit! LOL

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[srk468]

Well after further examination I noticed my drive shaft is bent pretty good :bang head: looks like I'll be calling Sean in the morning.. I wouldn't mind going to a heavier duty shaft but I'm concerned about clearance now...

 

[gamorg02]

lots of guys here stick with the stock shaft. keeps the 'weakest point' either in the clutch of the driveshaft instead of the case or the tranny.

 

[srk468]

That's the whole reason I went with the extender for the stock shaft but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't worried about bending or breaking another one because I'm pretty sure I'm the one that did this! LOL When the driveshaft breaks wouldn't it screw up the u joint and possibly the case too, or the differential? I've never broken any parts yet (knocking on wood) so I'm not sure what all happens, I know on a car breaking a driveshaft can be pretty catastrophic....

 

[CaptainKyle]

Ive been pretty lucky with breaking shafts the ujoint is pretty tough so I have never hurt anything else when I broke the shaft. I have a few shafts laying around but have not broke one in a while.

 

[srk468]

Ive been pretty lucky with breaking shafts the ujoint is pretty tough so I have never hurt anything else when I broke the shaft. I have a few shafts laying around but have not broke one in a while.

Well between you or Sean I'll need another one, don't want to buy one off ebay because I might get another bent shaft.. I trust both of you guys to send me a straight one so if Sean doesn't have any laying around I'll probably be contacting you Kyle :clapping:

 

[srk468]

More progress, closed up the notch today and it's tight but there is a solid 1/16" clearance between the notch and the tire :clapping: I have the brake side of the under brace done and tacked in and I have the shaft side all fitted but I have to wait till I can get someone over here to help me hold it in place so it can be tacked in too. Bike is at approx ride height right now, it's coming along nicely! :eusa_dance:

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Some remarks mate and don't take me wrong its just to be sure you thought of that...

1 - You need longer shocks or reposition the fixings fwd
2 - You need longer brake stay or reposition aft at the swingarm
3 - Mind that crossbar too close to the tire. On speed the tire diameter increases a bit and you may have it rub that crossover bar. Its gonna be nicked by gravel and tire dirt really bad at least...

 

[one2dmax]

To add to the weasel:

1) Agreed. You can either get an offset shock bracket for the diff side and then cut/reweld on the brake side OR use longer shocks to maintain height. Expect a 2.5" drop with stock length shocks. You can get a set of ZRX piggy back (KYB) shocks and end up with an approx 1.5" drop (They are 14.25" long). They are easily modified to work on the vmax by sacrificing one vmax shock for it's bushings (one bushing is needed per ZRX shock).

2) The stay may or may not work as is. This depends on how close the rotation would make the body of the caliper to the shock. I'd either cut and reweld it OR just get a simple flat aluminum or steel bar and use that as the stay (which will give you more tire clearance anyway).

3) The crossbar is way way too close. The tire will grow up to 1-2" at high speeds (i've seen the 170/80 15 metzler grow probably 4" at 200mph. This was on one side of the profile so it's actually twice that if measured in diameter. I'd leave at a minimum 1" though 2" is far safer.

 

[srk468]

Already thought of all of it guys, I cut off the brake stay all together and I'm just welding a new tab on and using a flat bar for the brake stay itself. I haven't moved the shock bracket yet but I will on the brake side to get me back to factory ride height, the differential side I'm making a bracket to move the shock to the factory position.
The tire isn't as close as it appears to the front crossmember either, there's probably about 1/2" of clearance there and it may rub if the tire grows that much but being a real radial and with such a narrow sidewall I seriously doubt it will grow that much, a biasply slick will only grow 1-1 1/2" on a car and radials don't grow anywhere near that much. If it does rub then I'll address it then but I really had no choice because that's what I'm mounting my nitrous bottle brackets to and it is kinda tight as it is. I'm planning on leaving the bottle out and taking a few test rides first to make sure I have clearance everywhere but like I said with the radial tire on such a short sidewall the tire really can't move much.

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[srk468]

Forgot to mention, if you look really close you can see there is no brake stay in there at all right now.. I just have the caliper bracket in there as a spacer at this point so I'll reposition the caliper bracket and make the brake stay after I move the shocks back to their original location. I'm lowering the bike 1" but I'm keeping the shocks in the factory position and just buying 12" shocks. Thanks for all the advice guys, I'd sure rather you bring something to my attention I may haven't thought of than not say anything at all :clapping:

 

[wildweasel_pt]

When you go test ride grab a sharpie and paint the side of the crossbar that faces the tire... Speed it up and then check how the sharpie marks are... I don't want to jinx it but im almost sure you gonna have problems there, lets hope not. You could always do a curved crossbar instead of straight one, one that matches the tire curvature...