Stator?

[zexus]

Looking for opinions. Bike looks to be draining the battery when it heats up and the fan comes on. When at a light and the fan switches on the idle starts to falter. When I simulate it in the garage ( let the bike run to warm and the fan kicks in) with a multi-meter on the battery it clearly shows the volts drop. When I turn the throttle the volts go back up...it only happens at idle. Just so you know I have a brand new battery, have done all the crimp fixes and wire checks. Maybe the rr?

 

[Buster Hymen]

What were the readings with multimeter? Let us know the voltage at idle and at about 2500 rpm.

 

[naughtyG]

Like Gary said - pls post the voltage readings you're getting. Also check the output of your stator and the output of your RR, you will find out which one's playing up.

 

[zexus]

Okay, so I went to start the bike this morning to get some reading. I checked the battery before I started the bike and it read 13.69 (Balistic Evo2 battery brand new as of Friday). Turned the key on and the bike turned over a couple of turns but no start. Checked battery voltage...it read 12.1 now. Tried again and the bike turned over a few more times but very weak and no start or catch at all. Meter read 11.4. Turned the key off and swore a few times. Waited and checked the battery voltage it read 11.9...turned key on and voltage dropped to 8.9...didn't bother trying to start the engine. I then let the battery recover and it went back up to 11.67 and every time I turn the key on is plummets to 8.27 in 10 seconds and stops. Now I am wondering if I have a short somewhere. Is it normal for a battery to drop like that when the ignition is turn on? Or is my battery faulty?

 

[one2dmax]

Bad battery from what I can see based on your load numbers.

 

[zexus]

Test results:

New 12cell Balistic Battery
Ignition off - 13.64 V
Ignition turned on (15 second wait) drops to 12.6 V
Turn Ignition off (15 second wait) recovers to 12.99 V
Turn Ignition on drops to 11.1 V
Hit Start button turns over a few times and then starts clicking

Lawn Mower battery
Ignition off 12.72 V
Ignition on 12.10
Hit start button and bike starts no problem



Thoughts?

 

[Buster Hymen]

What voltage are you getting at the battery when the bike is running?

 

[zexus]

Couldn't tell you as the damn balistic battery wont even start the bike now even when it is fully charged. As soon as I turn the key on the volts start to fall quickly and when I hit the start button is turns over maybe two times and then starts clicking. Note: I did put the battery in my riding lawn mower and it started that a couple of times in a row no problem. I'm thinking it has to be the new balistic battery, even if it can start my lawn mover I would guess that the draw from the machine is only a fraction of what the v-max requires in order to start. What are the chances of a new battery being faulty? Anyway, do people think it is my battery?

 

[Buster Hymen]

Put the lawn mower battery back in the bike and start it. Then take the voltage readings. This will tell us if there is an issue with the charging system.

 

[alorio1]

You got yourself a bad balistic battery.......

 

[zexus]

The following are the number with the lawn mower battery.

1) pre-ignition - 12.72v
2) ignition on and wait 15 seconds until drop slows down - 12.20v ish
3) push start button - bike starts no problem
4)at 2000rpm - 14.25v with no fan and bike still cool (using over ride fan switch I turned the fan on and volts went to 14.34v)
5) at 1300 rpm no fan on 14.44v (turn fan on 13.70v)
6) 1100 rpm 14.44v
7) turn ignition off 13.48v
8) turn ignition back on drops to 12.5ish

Thoughts?

 

[davidon]

Borrow a known good battery to make sure its not something else. I also had that hot idle problem but I think a switch to COPs helped eliminate it. Also have the HD ground kit, R1 R/R, 4 brush starter and hard wire starter ground. I was also told that at idle when hot and no airflow the mixture to carbs changes and eventually causes the stalling. I'm wondering if putting an additonal mini fan just in front of the airbox would also help to circulate some air when not moving.

 

[Buster Hymen]

The following are the number with the lawn mower battery.

1) pre-ignition - 12.72v
2) ignition on and wait 15 seconds until drop slows down - 12.20v ish
3) push start button - bike starts no problem
4)at 2000rpm - 14.25v with no fan and bike still cool (using over ride fan switch I turned the fan on and volts went to 14.34v)
5) at 1300 rpm no fan on 14.44v (turn fan on 13.70v)
6) 1100 rpm 14.44v
7) turn ignition off 13.48v
8) turn ignition back on drops to 12.5ish

Thoughts?

Your charging system is working properly, those are good numbers. It is an issue with the battery. If it's a wet cell battery make sure all the cells are full. I think you said it was a new battery. If it is, I would take it back for a new one.

 

[zexus]

I am also wondering now if I have some kind of short in my system that is drawing power from the battery overnight. With my lawn mower battery hooked up to the bike with the ignition turned off of course, I lost 0.05v over a 4 hour period. It went from 12.86v down to 12.81. Is this normal? I think I read somewhere that 0.125 of a drop over 24 hrs is normal.

 

[one2dmax]

Full charge on a 6 cell 12v battery is 12.60-12.63. Any voltage over that is excess and will drain off.

Sean

 

[zexus]

Okay. Thanks everyone for all the help. Based on multiple tests of the new battery it clearly shows that it is faulty. Battery will charge up but drops down to 10.5 - 11.0 volts within 5 or so seconds of the ignition switch being turned on. I also checked the paracidic draw and got a reading of zero. Looks like my charging system stator/rr is all good too. All I need to do now is get a battery replacement...oh and maybe a COPS.
Thanks again guys.