Stiff front brake lever

[rebeltaz83]

Has anybody had a severely stiff front brake lever after replacing front pads?? Before I replaced them it had some pull before the brakes would start to grab. Now when I pull it they almost grab instantly, but they do release, they aren't dragging. There just seems to be no free play to say lol. I'm going to flush the system with new dot 4 and see if that helps. The lever doesn't seem to be hanging it moves free and clear. Just wondering if anybody had this happen to them. Is it possible that the resivoir is so full of fluid that I built pressure when I pushed the caliper pistons back in?? Or would it have leaked fluid first??:ummm:

 

[Fire-medic]

Clean the small forward orifice in the floor of the master cyl. A needle from a sewing kit will work.

 

[Traumahawk]

Clean the small forward orifice in the floor of the master cyl. A needle from a sewing kit will work.

+1.

You can also use a small guitar string.

Sent from my SCH-R890 using Tapatalk

 

[MaxMidnight]

+1.

You can also use a small guitar string.

Sent from my SCH-R890 using Tapatalk

What about if you only have a big guitar..........?

Shall I shut the door behind me as I leave?

 

[Traumahawk]

What about if you only have a big guitar..........?

Shall I shut the door behind me as I leave?

That made me laugh.

Sent from my SCH-R890 using Tapatalk

 

[Dragmaxster]

What about if you only have a big guitar..........?

Shall I shut the door behind me as I leave?

No leave it open- we are gonna need some air!!!:rofl_200:

 

[jfeagins]

Most likely, when you pushed the pistons back in to allow for the thicker, new pads, you now have a bit too much fluid in your master. I bet this problem goes away after you bleed the brakes, as long as you don't refill clear up to the rubber diaphragm. On my OEM lever/master cylinder, I think there is an adjustment screw that can be backed out, or tightened inward, to achieve the desired free play. (long time since I messed with it)

 

[MaxMidnight]

No leave it open- we are gonna need some air!!!:rofl_200:

Apologies - I will try to keep off the curried eggs in future.....

 

[lastwhiteman]

Take a look at the thread called "front brakes catchy".

 

[Fire-medic]

The gist of that thread:

Cleaning the brake lever pivot pin and regreasing helped immeasurably. There is still a slight bit of it when I squeeze really hard. It could be that the brake calipers could use some cleaning as well, and maybe that will clear up the remaining hitching.

If it comes down to needing a master cylinder rebuild, I think what I would do instead is just order new pieces. While at it, I would get ahold of some braided stainless lines. (might as well do the clutch line at the same time if I do that)

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=38894&highlight=front+brakes+catchy

The O.P did say, "The lever doesn't seem to be hanging it moves free and clear."

As for Mr. Midnight's 'small/large guitar' comment I immediately thought of this scene from one of my favorite movies I originally saw in the theater in San Francisco:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=9jrKXf2G-AA

Take a look at the thread called "front brakes catchy".

 

[lastwhiteman]

You can get the whole new assembly but bleeding the thing is still the worst pain in the arse. The rebuild is relatively easy. My lever was both catchy and stiff, rebuild fixed both issues.

 

[Fire-medic]

I have found the Mityvac type 'pull the fluid down' bleeding method is OK for the f & r brakes, but that the 60 cc/ml syringe 'push the fluid up' method is is easiest for the clutch (using the slave cyl bleeder valve).

I don't bother rebuilding brake master cyl's any more, I just buy a new one from ronayresmotorsports, I believe my life is worth the extra $60+ over a rebuild kit.

You can get the whole new assembly but bleeding the thing is still the worst pain in the arse. The rebuild is relatively easy. My lever was both catchy and stiff, rebuild fixed both issues.

 

[rebeltaz83]

Yeah I read that thread about front brakes catchy, my symptoms are not the brake lever it's self. Like I said, before pads got changed it was fine, after I changed the pads is when it got stiff. Stiff as in no free play, brakes are either on or off, which means you better watch your arse on roads with grit at intersections.

 

[lastwhiteman]

I have found the Mityvac type 'pull the fluid down' bleeding method is OK for the f & r brakes, but that the 60 cc/ml syringe 'push the fluid up' method is is easiest for the clutch (using the slave cyl bleeder valve).

I don't bother rebuilding brake master cyl's any more, I just buy a new one from ronayresmotorsports, I believe my life is worth the extra $60+ over a rebuild kit.

That's OK I guess, but that's like going to the grocery store to get your alligator meat. I prefer to see how bad I can screw something up before I give in and buy a replacement. :bang head:

 

[lastwhiteman]

Yeah I read that thread about front brakes catchy, my symptoms are not the brake lever it's self. Like I said, before pads got changed it was fine, after I changed the pads is when it got stiff. Stiff as in no free play, brakes are either on or off, which means you better watch your arse on roads with grit at intersections.

Kinda sounds like you may have a stuck caliper piston.
Not releasing correctly. :confused2:

 

[Dorney]

Most likely, when you pushed the pistons back in to allow for the thicker, new pads, you now have a bit too much fluid in your master. I bet this problem goes away after you bleed the brakes, as long as you don't refill clear up to the rubber diaphragm. On my OEM lever/master cylinder, I think there is an adjustment screw that can be backed out, or tightened inward, to achieve the desired free play. (long time since I messed with it)

I'm going with you on this one.

 

[jfeagins]

Kinda sounds like you may have a stuck caliper piston.
Not releasing correctly. :confused2:

A stuck piston would most likely result in piss-poor braking out of that caliper. It would also mean the pads on that caliper most likely would not back off properly, resulting in a stuck brake. OP says his braking is terrific, and only has to barely squeeze the lever before full-on braking.

 

[lastwhiteman]

A stuck piston would most likely result in piss-poor braking out of that caliper. It would also mean the pads on that caliper most likely would not back off properly, resulting in a stuck brake. OP says his braking is terrific, and only has to barely squeeze the lever before full-on braking.

Excuse me if I misspoke on that. :confused2:

I have had brake calipers that would only release partially and create the same issue, so it's really only conjecture on our parts to diagnose problems long distance. But based on my experience with my own VMax, the problem was with the master cylinder.

But since I've only been riding and building my own bikes for 47 years I probably don't know sh*t about anything. :ummm:

 

[jfeagins]

Excuse me if I misspoke on that. :confused2:

I have had brake calipers that would only release partially and create the same issue, so it's really only conjecture on our parts to diagnose problems long distance. But based on my experience with my own VMax, the problem was with the master cylinder.

But since I've only been riding and building my own bikes for 47 years I probably don't know sh*t about anything. :ummm:

Sorry if you are upset with me. I didn't intend to question your 47 years of experience in these matters. Myself, I've only gotten 41 years of inexperience to call upon when trying to help fellow forum members from long distance. But, I come here to learn new sh*t all the time.

 

[Fire-medic]

Oh-oh, this is getting to be a topic like you see in other online sites. Whose yellow stream is the longest?

Instead of getting defensive, it comes down to the OP having to tear into his system to do the types of things which have been suggested here. By doing the whole 'kit & kaboodle,' you aren't going to know which item it was unless you find something like a sticking caliper piston, a plugged front master cyl bleed hole, no lubrication on the lever pivot, or whatever else has been discussed here.

If I was faced w/this problem, I'd begin w/the easy, less-time-intensive fixes, and work towards those requiring more tear-down time & effort. You could check if any one thing did the trick, or you could just disassemble the entire front brake system, and give it an overhaul. In an older bike that's not a bad idea, and since the newest Gen 1 is now 8 years old, I think that proves my point. It doesn't matter if you only ride 1K miles/season, as opposed to 8K/season, sometimes, less miles allows idleness to cause problems the well-exercised bike may not develop.

I once had a brake line collapse, it was a partial collapse, but it wouldn't allow the brake pressure to fully-release. A new line fixed it, and the symptoms were similar to this guy's. Not much pedal travel (back hydraulic brake) and very quick actuation. No stickiness to the pedal movement.

I'm not a machinist, I'm not a mechanic. I'm a hobbyist w/nearly 50 years of time messing w/cars, trucks, and bikes. I've never owned a record-setting anything, but I get a lot of satisfaction out of fixing something that I know if I took it to the factory shop, they would charge me a lot of $$$ to fix it. The diagnosis can be maddening at times, repairs may take longer than 'dropping it at the shop,' but the $$ savings once you eventually do figure it out makes it a rewarding process. I'm fortunate that I have an extended circle of knowledgeable friends and acquaintances I can ask for assistance, and sometimes I do just turn it over to a professional.

When we come here to complain about something we cannot deduce the solution to on our own, we're asking our brothers for ideas. The younger guy doesn't have the experience that an older guy does, but he may be more technically-experienced in working w/the equipment in today's bikes filled w/their CAN-BUS electrical systems, though the VMax is prehistoric in that event.

So, when someone else has a different idea, you shouldn't think someone is personally impugning your skills as a shade-tree mechanic, a skilled diagnostic technician of niggling problems, or someone who doesn't know his way around a set of metric sockets and JIS screwdrivers. They're merely positing another possible reason for 'why my bike is &*%$^%#!8**'ing-up.'

I come on here because I learn from others' experiences, and I may be able to better-troubleshoot my own problems after reading of someone else's problem, and the eventual solution.

This sandbox is big-enough for everyone to build their own castles, don't start stomping on each other's work, or comments, we've got a lot of civility displayed as a matter of course, and unless someone brings up politics, religion, or another hot-button topic, we all get-along better than nearly any-other online source of information I've ever seen.