Stock air box vs pods

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Here is a dyno of mine (07) with stock airbox, K&N filter, 147.5 jets, stock needles, stock exhaust, and kerker slip-ons. 104 Hp
 

Attachments

  • Dyno 3_1_14 (2).pdf
    246.4 KB
Last edited:
Darn it.... Grip is fine but the plastic base of the throttle cable under the grip is split in two...makes me wonder if that might be the problem...
 
That's ok I got it :biglaugh: I will look into it but I am pretty sure that it is not the grip. But in the case that the grip is fine would you advise to go back to the stock airbox as a means of gaining the lost power? I am not really planning to go drag racing or something....

Kosta i was riding for a month to understand that the grip was the problem. in the mechanic shop we were pulling our hair out when we found out what was the problem. jut check it. it is not difficult to put on the stock air box to see what happens
 
Kosta i was riding for a month to understand that the grip was the problem. in the mechanic shop we were pulling our hair out when we found out what was the problem. jut check it. it is not difficult to put on the stock air box to see what happens

Actually I do not have one....never came with the bike so I need to buy one. Here in Cyprus we have lots of Hayabusa specialists but not one knows Vmax inside out. There are only 4 I know of in the entire island.
 
what do yoy mean the plastic is split in two ? i have a filter box if you need one i can give it really cheap

The base of the throttle cable is a 90 degree plastic one (ο λαιμός που λεμε) and that is broken. How much for the box?
 
Ive seen guys add the pod filters a few times and try to re-jet to no avail. In order to use pod style filters you will need air restrictors installed in the top of the carbs. The full stage 7 kit and Seans kit have these included. Most of the guys I saw using the cheap uni pods were looking to do it on the "cheap" and had no idea they needed them.

The crankcase breather tube needs to go somewhere also so it doesnt make a mess. Again the stage 7, and Seans kit have provisions for this.

I recommend Seans kit myself. I have had both installed, and Seans kit allows you to leave the VBoost active and on the bike while still making as much or more power.

Regards,
Rob
 
I recommend Seans kit myself. I have had both installed, and Seans kit allows you to leave the VBoost active and on the bike while still making as much or more power.

Regards,
Rob[/QUOTE]
Just for the record you can run the Vboost with the stage 7 & it will work just fine if its tuned right. I am not downing Seans kit as it is a good kit just stating the facts
 
That is correct. The stage seven can be run with or without the vboost. The difference is that ours leaves the factory airbox and velocity stacks intact for more dense airflow into the carbs and an uninterrupted air stream due to the design.
 
That is correct. The stage seven can be run with or without the vboost. The difference is that ours leaves the factory airbox and velocity stacks intact for more dense airflow into the carbs and an uninterrupted air stream due to the design.

Idle curiosity but why would I want to run without V-Boost ? or does your kit enable it through the entire rev range as opposed to it's normal kick in period ?
Chris.
 
With the vboost open full time (either by unplugging the box when the servo cycles to the full open position) or by putting in the bypass tubes that come with the stage seven. You lose low end to maximize the top end.

Our kit leaves it to function as normal or with any of the aftermarket "gizmo's" to control it.
 
Back
Top