Stripped screw on clutch master

[JoshR]

So, I went to ride last week and found my clutch system pretty much out of fluid. So, I was going to fill it back up to see if I could find the leak and then fix. First screw is where it went south. It started to give way and strip, and nothing I tried after did anything but make it worse. Tired the other screw and was able to get it to crack loose. Then I set out to remove the stripped one. I tried a screw extractor set I have successfully used before and it just would not bite and kept stripping as I went up in size on the extractors. My last idea is to epoxy good old jb weld a bit in place and try to heat the MC with a hair dryer just enough to be warm and see if it will break free. Before I do that I was wondering if anyone had any other methods I haven't seen or thought of that might work better and not mess up the MC. Trying not to spend the 200 plus on a new MC for a $2 screw. First pic is the removed screw next to the stripped out one. Second one is how the bit would sit if I were to jb weld it in place.

Thanks,

Josh

 

[Fire-medic]

Forget the hair dryer. Either a propane torch or several seconds with an acetylene torch, using a small tip. You don't want to burn-up the rubber gasket of the cap. Then try a left-hand drill bit set, Harbor Freight sells 'em. It's likely that after the heat that as the bit bites, the screw will start out on its own. Remember to put your cordless drill on 'reverse.' You've made a good 'starter-hole' for the bit. Try the largest one you can safely use smaller than the threads.

https://www.harborfreight.com/left-hand-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61686.html$8.50

 

[hondaman]

I have used easy out tools similar to this with success.. Drill in reverse with one side then flip it over to use the extractor...

 

[SteveClark]

The other posts are the way to go (heat & reverse bit and/or extractor). Hopefully you’ll get the screw out without too many more problems. If you don’t already have a set, buy some JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers. The previous owner of my bike stripped out a lot of the screws by using Phillips Head instead of the correct JIS screwdrivers. I replaced all of the screws as a precaution.

 

[JoshR]

Forget the hair dryer. Either a propane torch or several seconds with an acetylene torch, using a small tip. You don't want to burn-up the rubber gasket of the cap. Then try a left-hand drill bit set, Harbor Freight sells 'em. It's likely that after the heat that as the bit bites, the screw will start out on its own. Remember to put your cordless drill on 'reverse.' You've made a good 'starter-hole' for the bit. Try the largest one you can safely use smaller than the threads.

https://www.harborfreight.com/left-hand-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61686.html$8.50

View attachment 91928

FM yeah I didn't know if the torch would get it too hot. I have a heat gun which will get much hotter than the hair dryer, just trying not to mess anything up. Do you think the left hand bits will work better than the extractors? I was surprised at how the screw continued to strip as I kept going up in size with the extractors.

 

[JoshR]

View attachment 91929


I have used easy out tools similar to this with success.. Drill in reverse with one side then flip it over to use the extractor...

Hey hondaman, I used a set like that going all the way to the largest bit, and each time it just removed more of the screw and would not bite and stick. I have used it before to get a bolt out of an old vise jaw. But, it just kept stripping out this time. The screw just seemed really soft.

 

[JoshR]

The other posts are the way to go (heat & reverse bit and/or extractor). Hopefully you’ll get the screw out without too many more problems. If you don’t already have a set, buy some JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers. The previous owner of my bike stripped out a lot of the screws by using Phillips Head instead of the correct JIS screwdrivers. I replaced all of the screws as a precaution.

Hi Steve, yeah I tried the extractor set I have and used successfully in the past, but it just didn't work this time. I didn't try any heat yet though. Yes I need to get some JIS screwdrivers.

 

[F 18 Driver]

Hi JoshR,

The reason you stripped out the head is that you are using a American Phillips screwdriver (they are designed to CAM out)

In order to avoid any future problems when removing or tightening screws that appear to be Phillips screws you need to purchase the correct screwdriver


When repairing a Japanese motorcycle in order to avoid stripping the screws you need to purchase a Japanese industrial standard screwdriver (JIS)…

They look the same as a Phillips cross but there's a world of difference (will not CAM out)


This may sound ridiculous only because you have not been informed of the difference between Phillips and JIS screwdrivers

Regards,

F-18 driver

 

[MaxMidnight]

I suspect the extractors didn't work because you hadn't been able to drill deep enough for them to get a grip.
I would try the LH drills next and in the worst case drill it out and insert a helicoil.

 

[hondaman]

stripped or broken screws are never easy. Sometimes they come out sometimes not. Usually they corrode around the threads and that makes it tough to remove. Make sure you keep lots of pressure on the screw to let the drill or extractor bite into the screw. I have also had luck with a small cold chisel. Start at about 45 degrees and tap a slot in the screw then use the chisel and hammer to slowly work the screw loose. Good luck

 

[LenP]

I used an impact driver to get mine off. No drilling required.

 

[oz1961]

It’s a common problem on bikes, not just a Vmax. When I haven’t been able to get one out, I have carefully drill the head out which enabled me to take the top off. Then I was able to grab the remaining screw with grips and get it out. If that still doesn’t work you will have to drill it all out and use a wire thread insert. Good luck KR

 

[Michael C]

I had a similar issue...I actually took a standard screwdriver, hammered it in slightly, then tapped it in reverse. Got it to broke loose. I couldn't believe it, but it worked. I'm thinking all my other work loosened it up though??

 

[MaxMidnight]

I find that using the correct JIS screwdriver works best and prevents the screws getting mangled.

 

[wayne billings]

J.I.S. is the way. You will never look back. I switch to allens when ever possible, just sayin'.

 

[Fire-medic]

I've used a small same thread hex screw w/a stainless flat washer below it, and never had any issues with it leaking. I tapped the hole deeper. I also have used a tapered flat-head allen screw, which is probably what wayne billings was using.

 

[Traumahawk]

Lol....I've cheated when faced with this problem. I've taken the MC off and taken to a machinist that is about 10 mins away. It's was 15 dollars and had it back in under 30 mins.

 

[Sidecarjohn]

The whole issue of variation of cross head screws is a nightmare. All very well to determine what's correct -phillips, JlS or whatever, but time passes and its easy for forget. So, after this for me recurring problem, settled on allen headed 4mm countersunk screws.
For the record, when confronted by this all too familiar problem involving Dremel, impact screwdrivers, etc. drilling provde a salvation albeit a wrecked reservoir cap. This experienec also confirmed that the seizure of the screws is likely to involve the countersink rather than a seized thread. Also, replaced the brake and clutch reservoir caps with Ebay sourced billet replacements emgraved Vmax. Half the cost of one OE cap for pair including delivery.