Stupid newbie antics - Sissy bar removal

[propwash]

Hi. I just got a 1999 Vmax from a local dealer yesterday.

Everything on the bike was just right - EXCEPT for the huge sissy bar. The damn thing just kills 50% of what the bike is supposed to be, to me at least. For solo riding I'd like to be without it - and pop it on again for occasional ride with the wife. I appreciate having it - as long as I can remove it at will, like my previous ride, the Vstar 1100.

So, not long after bringing it home, I started tinkering around and noted the backrest has four nuts holding it in it's brace - so I'm thinking, easy peasy, lose the nuts and pull the backrest from the track. With a healthy tug I pull it away - but guess what? The damn thing won't fit again. The backrest rail is way wider (at least 1") than the brace it just came out of. Not bendable either, I used all my might to try to squeeze it back in - nothing.

Do I now need to disassemble the whole backrest (including blinkers / seat) or is there some trick to get it to fit back in again?

 

[Fire-medic]

Don't force things. Yes, loosen the side grab handles to where you can again insert the hoop. Partially tighten all fasteners like you would a car wheel, in a cross-pattern, until you have everything snug, and torqued properly.

"If you can read my t-shirt, the bitch fell-off" Don't let this be you! A popular Bike Week shirt back print.

Take a look at the left grab handle bracket, is it in the same shape and angle as the right one? In the pic, it looks cocked to the left, but that could be parallax error, because the camera sees in a monocular (one 'eye') fashion, and things like that can be OK, and exaggerated. We see binocularly (two eyes, of course, unless you're the Van Heusen man).

 

[propwash]

Hey Phil - I didn't want to pester you with this one as I think I've already asked enough of you in the last week, lol. Yeah that's what I thought I'd have to do. Send me a private message or text with a pic of your backrest, maybe I'll swap with you after all?

 

[Fire-medic]

PM to be sent.

Hey Phil - I didn't want to pester you with this one as I think I've already asked enough of you in the last week, lol. Yeah that's what I thought I'd have to do. Send me a private message or text with a pic of your backrest, maybe I'll swap with you after all?

 

[Eugene Brad]

Hi. I just got a 1999 Vmax from a local dealer yesterday.

Everything on the bike was just right - EXCEPT for the huge sissy bar. The damn thing just kills 50% of what the bike is supposed to be, to me at least. For solo riding I'd like to be without it - and pop it on again for occasional ride with the wife. I appreciate having it - as long as I can remove it at will, like my previous ride, the Vstar 1100.

So, not long after bringing it home, I started tinkering around and noted the backrest has four nuts holding it in it's brace - so I'm thinking, easy peasy, lose the nuts and pull the backrest from the track. With a healthy tug I pull it away - but guess what? The damn thing won't fit again. The backrest rail is way wider (at least 1") than the brace it just came out of. Not bendable either, I used all my might to try to squeeze it back in - nothing.

Do I now need to disassemble the whole backrest (including blinkers / seat) or is there some trick to get it to fit back in again?

Have you tried a pipe or bar clamp to bring it back together? That might get you there.
I'm glad you posted this because one day I was going to do the same thing in removing that upper part of the back rest.

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

 

[rick67ca]

A tie down ratchet strap might do it for you.

 

[psrumors]

A tie down ratchet strap might do it for you.

This is what I would do....ratchet it back to the right size and install

 

[[email protected]]

I'm not sure how you got it out of there without removing, or at least loosening, the side rails.

It's not supposed to pop in or out easily. The upper and lower parts lock together.

I'd remove the rear seat and remove one side bracket and loosen the other then see if you can get it back on.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Fire-medic]

Don't do the ratchet idea, bad idea.

Loosen the side bracket enough and you should be able to slip it back in.

 

[one2dmax]

As mentioned it's designed to not come out easily (or back in) without some amount of disassembly. It's wider at the base then at the opening.

 

[psrumors]

Don't do the ratchet idea, bad idea.

.

Why?

 

[Traumahawk]

Why?

Probably because your trying to FORCE it into place using a ratchet strap. If its unbolted properly, it will bolt back up with no force.

A used backrest usually sells for around 300 dollars. So, if it gets broken, thats about what it will take to replace it.

 

[Fire-medic]

yep.

 

[Max to the Max]

You need to take it completely off then assemble it before you try to mount it.

 

[propwash]

Hello - I'm bringing back up an old thread, to update my saga.

So shortly after I had posted this thread, the shop owner tried to force the seat back in place with a ratchet (as you can guess I had NOT read the posts.) And sure enough, it snapped it half.

He told me he's going to have someone weld it together, but he needs the side brackets with him. (so as to make sure it fits!) So now I have endeavor of completely removing the assembly. Do I need to simply loosen the nuts to remove it? Do I need to remove the passenger seat? And how about the turn signals? Those are attached to the side bracket. If someone can post a link to instructions, much appreciated! (I could not locate anything)

 

[Fire-medic]

I sent you directions.

 

[propwash]

Received- thanks!!!

 

[Fire-medic]

Harbor Freight set to let you do this work:
https://www.harborfreight.com/64-pc-14-in-38-in-12-in-drive-sae-metric-socket-set-63461.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/22-piece-metric-sae-combination-wrench-set-47467.html

1/4, 3/8, & 1/2 inch sockets, and combination wrenches in both metric and inch sizes, all for <$60.

I also recommend straight jaw pliers, look at youtube videos on which way to position them on a nut or a bolt, for example. $7.
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-straight-jaw-locking-pliers-63872.html

And a set of metric and SAE allen keys, $8.
https://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-sae-metric-hex-key-set-94725.html

If you are gonna work on bike stuff, a hand impact driver will make it easy to work on tightly-torqued fasteners, like axle nuts or countershaft sprocket retaining nuts, or clutch basket nuts. Home Depot $14.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/205674679

A total of <$100, Broward County tax included. The investment should pay for itself on the first job you do where you don't have to take it to the shop. And don't forget to get one of those free harbor freight electrical multi-meters!

 

[sdt354]

Harbor Freight set to let you do this work:
https://www.harborfreight.com/64-pc-14-in-38-in-12-in-drive-sae-metric-socket-set-63461.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/22-piece-metric-sae-combination-wrench-set-47467.html

1/4, 3/8, & 1/2 inch sockets, and combination wrenches in both metric and inch sizes, all for <$60.

I also recommend straight jaw pliers, look at youtube videos on which way to position them on a nut or a bolt, for example. $7.
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-straight-jaw-locking-pliers-63872.html

And a set of metric and SAE allen keys, $8.
https://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-sae-metric-hex-key-set-94725.html

If you are gonna work on bike stuff, a hand impact driver will make it easy to work on tightly-torqued fasteners, like axle nuts or countershaft sprocket retaining nuts, or clutch basket nuts. Home Depot $14.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/205674679

A total of <$100, Broward County tax included. The investment should pay for itself on the first job you do where you don't have to take it to the shop. And don't forget to get one of those free harbor freight electrical multi-meters!

+1, Harbor Freight is the place for tools at an incredible price. Home Depot Husky, I still buy. For the price of my Snap-On long breaker bar( saw one like it for$15 at H.F.) a whole tool set can be purchased. That's the direction I point in when someone ask to borrow hand tools. My son got the hint years ago, though he'll inherit all my tools someday.

 

[Fire-medic]

Most of my hand tools are Craftsman, I've never earned my living as a mechanic, but I've saved a lot of $$$ doing what I can.

People disparage HFT but if I had them around 50 years ago when I began collecting tools, I probably would have bought them because of the 'bang for the $.' By my suggestion to get some hand tools, at a reasonable price, and to learn how to use them correctly, I am promoting building mechanical knowledge and a set of tools which will save you money from the first use.

Sure I like the high-priced tools, and have some I've obtained over the years, but it's better to have serviceable tools at a price you can afford than to not have tools because of their price, and not being able to do any work to save you $.

I have a set of 3/8" Wright metric sockets I've owned 50 years, and I still use them on my bikes before any other metric set I have.