Tach and 2 cylinders dead when hot

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I see the arcing. Usually that's a faulty plug cap or wire, or both. In the points/coil days, carbon tracing on the inside of a distributor cap could cause what you see. A cracked distributor cap was also prone to do that, as was water inside the cap, not uncommon after blasting through standing water.

You may not want to hear it, but I'd say new caps/wires/plugs are in order. Even if you replaced them a short time ago.

In horror movies, you've seen the static electricity generators like a Jacob's Ladder, where the horizontal spark jumps between two vertical conductors, and it moves upwards? Then the Van De Graff ball, which when you touch it, your hair poofs-out (assuming you have some) in a wild bigger-'n an Afro 'hair-do?' It appears that your components are allowing a significant leakage of your ignition energy to go to ground of the cylinder head. Hence you have those l-o-n-g sparks escaping from your components, and going to ground.

Just what you've done, seeing how the excess voltage pattern spreads from the ignition components to the grounding mass of the cylinder head is how we used to do it, searching for signs of failed ignition components, in 'the old days.' I grew up when you could go to KMart and buy a cardboard and bubble-wrap package, containing a new condenser, a pair of ignition points, a distributor cap and a rotor, for maybe five bucks. Then you would buy however-many spark plugs of the proper letter/number combo. Along with that, maybe 4 or 5 quarts of 30-WT and an oil filter, and you had a nice way to spend a day, or part of a day, if you're quick.

I think your components have failed, somewhere, somehow, Maybe not all of them, but certainly on the cylinders where you have the Frankenstein-effect.

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Hi there,

unfortunately I had very little time to drive my bike this year. To exchange my new NGK caps was also no point so far, as bike was not used anyway.
But, today was the day, I found time to measure the sparc length on ignition.
It is approx 15mm (0.59inch) which seems to me pretty ok.

I think, I will buy new caps and plugs again.
But for both not the same.
I tried last time the pair NGK DP8EA9 & SD05F on my video above and want not buy them again.

What is the best experience for you on:

5kOhm on Plug or Cap?
Which iridium plugs you recommend?
Which caps you think are the best ones for my '97 VMax?
 
IMO what you have is OK.
I think, I will buy new caps and plugs again.
But for both not the same.
I tried last time the pair NGK DP8EA9 & SD05F on my video above and want not buy them again.

What is the best experience for you on:

5kOhm on Plug or Cap?
Cap
Which iridium plugs you recommend?
I don't, much higher cost for no benefit. Stick with DPR8EA-9
Which caps you think are the best ones for my '97 VMax?
NGK caps haven't given me any problems.

If there is sparking from the HT leads or cap then that would suggest that insulation has broken down and is allowing the current to take an easier path to earth.
I would first make sure that leads and caps are clean, particularly where they join.
As copper cored HT lead is cheap I would replace the silicon leads.
 
the spark goes out of the cap. (see video above)

My work arround for this year was to limit the plug cap to 0,4mm instead 0,8mm
This smaller cap means also smaller resistance to Ground, so my sparc outside the cylinder does no happen anymore.
Clearly the sparc is smaller and risk of a shortcup on cap is given.
 

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