The FJR master cylinder for brakes & clutch

[gleno]

Gleno: I have some significant nerve damage to my right (and left) hands. I put just the XJR master on my 90 (no caliper or disk upgrade) and it made a WORLD of difference. MUCH easier- I can pretty much put the bike up on the front wheel with 2 fingers. Got the master off eBay for ~$50. check the old threads for compatibility, there are several bikes masters (even some 650's) that are the same.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=5126&highlight=master+cylinder

G: drilling for the mirror is easy enough if you have a $39 big lots/ harbor freight drill press, clamp(s), and tap. one simply uses 2 let hand mirrors. Took me about an hour to mod and mount it.

Thanks for the feedback.unk: If it means less load on the lever then that will help a lot.

 

[PATMAX]

Have any of you guys had a master cylinder cover or reservior start to lose the paint around the rubber gasket area? My Res covers are powdercoated and even they have peeled from regular brake fluid. Hope none of you with custom paint ever have a bleeding "Ooops". I'll never know more than Sean but I don't have worries with sillicon, have no performance issues and does not cost a ton to convert. You DO have thoroughly clean your system. Don't think of draining once and adding silicon based. A flush with a cleaner safe for rubber then a flush with silicon and then fill/bleed should convert it with no problems. Just another way to skin a cat. :banana:

 

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Here is some updated info on FJR masters

FYI

16mm=0.629"
5/8"=0.625"
14mm=0.551"

Another FYI on FJR bore diameters:

03' thru 05' all have the same bore diameter in the clutch master. 14mm
03' is the ONLY year the FJR had a front brake master with 14mm bore
04'-05' FJR front brake masters are 15mm
04'-05' FJR front brake masters for ABS equipped bikes are 16mm.

I have a couple FJR brake masters off of the '05 with ABS. It is a 16mm bore which is basically the same as our 5/8" master so it won't offer a different feel in braking action BUT it does have a 5 position adjustable lever and the OE connectors for the brake switch plug right in. Actually, I have more than one if anyone is interested. Looking to get $70.00 shipped out of one.

They are currently NOT drilled and tapped for the stock vmax mirrors but the boss is there. I was planning to do so but tap it with regular threads vs. reverse threads. That way you could use any mirror you want without those ugly adaptors. If you wanted to use stock mirrors I could throw in a stem from a left mirror and then you'd be golden.

 

[coffee_brake]

So...if you used the front master from say, an R1 or FZ1, you'd get an increase in braking too?
But you would need a way to 1) mount the mirror and 2) secure the reservoir. Right?


'Cause R1 masters are lots more common than 14mm FJR masters, even if you count in the cost of a Yamaha mirror mount...

So would you get the same increase in braking power from the R1/FZ1 master?

 

[coffee_brake]

Hunh....this guy's offering new MC's, says they're 14mm bore. Wonder if they're junk?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FR-B...3813543QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[one2dmax]

Be careful buying mastercylinder parts from the XJ/XS bikes as they have completely different handlebar angles and if they are made as a direct bolt on with the stock bars for those bikes will have it sitting at a far to great a lean angle for the vmax bars. Other then that it looks like a decent master.

Keep in mind that the master from the R1's (and other sportbikes) should work just fine but the clutch master from the FJR doesn't displace as much fluid so you have to use more lever travel to disengage it all the way. If you have smaller hands (or shorter fingers) you may not like having to have the lever all the way out for it to work well.

Sean

 

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I have one set of FJR masters left. Front brake with 16mm bore. Clutch with 14mm bore. Both in good shape.

The brake master won't really make much of a difference (since its 16mm) but it does have an adjustable lever.

The clutch master will ease lever effort. So if you have a DD clutch or hand issues, this may help you with that. Adjustable, brand new OEM lever. As Sean mentioned, clutch engagement will happen further out than with the OEM setup but the lever pull will be lighter.