quick question guys how in the hell do you remove the rear foot peg to gain access to the R/R i have been fiddling with it for an hour now and i am getting pissed off cause i think i stripped a damn bolt, and it still wont give ... help me out guy once again Clymers has proven itself useless.
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one2dmax
Well-Known Member
Take the entire bracket setup off. The lower mount area tends to get rusted on. You can even pull the entire assy with the frame rail.
Sean
Sean
does that include the exhaust . their is a chrome cap to the left of the rear foot rest is there something under it i should be removed?
i did remove the 3 bolts directly located on the foot rest it self. and i removed the bolt that secure the exhaust in the mounted position ( found it stripped at the tip dammn it) gave it a few rapps with a rubber mallet no luck what other lower frame locations am i looking for?
i did remove the 3 bolts directly located on the foot rest it self. and i removed the bolt that secure the exhaust in the mounted position ( found it stripped at the tip dammn it) gave it a few rapps with a rubber mallet no luck what other lower frame locations am i looking for?
I usually look at the micro-fiche to find where things are. Maybe this will help
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm...l/VMX12/GroupID/241797/Group/STAND_-_FOOTREST
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm...l/VMX12/GroupID/241797/Group/STAND_-_FOOTREST
Redbone
Well-Known Member
The chrome cap in the cover for the swingarm pivot, no need to go in there. Like Sean said the connections are corroded so even with the bolts out it is still holding fast.
One thing you may want to try is to remove the frame support which means you have to first remove the side cover. Remove the top bolt, bottom bolt that goes through the foot peg bracket, the bolt holding the exhaust and the bolt directly above it. You should then be able to remove the frame piece. You may have to pivot it back and forth a bit because they fit together.
At this point the footrest bracket should be held on by just the front 2 bolt next to the swingarm pivot cover and the R/R. Remove those two bolts and again you will have to pivot to break the corrosion of the parts.
Be careful once it breaks loose as it will be hanging by the R/R wires if you drop it. You can then remove the old R/R and install the new one.
I hope this helps.
hey guys here is some more information regarding my V max. a couple buddies of mine were able to push start my bike after i would not start after being parked at their house for a short while. does that rule out my starter motor of starter clutch as possible culprits? could i be looking at a solenoid issue as well? or am i still having R/R symptoms. i have yet to start my crimp mod fix or the planned install of a new R/R. thanx to the horriable weather over the holiday. monday is D-day if the weather does not persists... i wish i had a garage! and a moto-lift!
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alright guys i finally have the New R/R installed thanx to the help of many of you alas i trickle charged the battery and tried to fire it up...and had no luck it just flicks and i measure across the battery and i find it loose a charge abruptly. I.E i charge it to 13.32 and then punch the start button it trys to start but then just clicks the neutral light is on and both the fuel and oil level light come on while it is Clicking, i mesaured the battery while i am tryign to star the bike and it jump from 13.35 to 11.23 to even 10.25 on one occasion i am starting to believe the v max ate another battery. i first obtained the bike and it had an Lead Acid cell Interstate battery in it. When it started to fail on me i replaced it with a AGM sealed MOTOBATT brand battery with similar specifications to the Lead acid battery only it boasted higher cranking amps and now it is going.going going gone.
let me know if my understanding is correct i have been reading alot into the electrical systems.
if you are able to push start a bike then that is proof that your starter clutch is operational?
if you are able to jump start a bike then that is proof that your starter motor operational?
let me know if my understanding is correct i have been reading alot into the electrical systems.
if you are able to push start a bike then that is proof that your starter clutch is operational?
if you are able to jump start a bike then that is proof that your starter motor operational?
It sounds like you cooked the battery If you were charging 18 volts for any amount of time the battery is junk. It should not drop down to 10 volts.
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
1. I don't think push starting will tell you anything about the starter clutch
2. if you can jump start it then the starter is fine. If you don't hear the "box of rocks" noise then the starter clutch should be fine also.
i hear that box of rocks sound when i am shifting from first to neutral or neutral to first.
17.89 at 3000 RPM is unusual? think this was made possible by a bad R/R maybe!
V max is running again.seems a faulty battery may have been the case. i purchased a AGM to replace the Lead Acid my v max came with and it appears it may have been compromised by the RR i had thankfully purchased the battery with a 2yr warrenty so they replaced it with no charge. was havign a hell of a time gettign the battery out fo the craddle. so i called the manufacture and they said that over chargign coudl cause the battery to physically Warp. i will have to keep my eye on this situation have nto been abel to do further testign becasue of the rain but as soon as these skys clear up i will have more data for you a ll. thank you to everyone for their assietence in one way or another!
so im back at square one with my bike dying when i let off the throttle or at a stop batter reads 11.35 at idle and fluctuates downward between 10.15-9.23 when throttle is applied im at a loss for words or direction any help would be appreciated fellas Thank you in advance.
Unplug your stator wire & test the ac voltage on all legs 1-2-1-3 2-3 with the motor running at idle & around 3000 rpm with the motor warm & let us know what the out put is.
Pull off your left side cover It is a 3 prong plug. It does not matter which order you test the wires in as long as you test them all. 1-2 1-3 2-3 etc. Feel free to call me @ 813-270-0000 if you do not understand & I wil walk you thru it. Keep in mind I think I am 3 hours ahead of you so I go to bed much earlier.
Yeah i am almost at wits end. how did his situation work out....
ok bud i am going to give it a go right now if i don't call you in 30mins or so i will call you tomorrow. thanks for your help!
The starter clutch will make a nasty gravel in a can sound if it's bad (i.e. loose bolts) and happens more with a weak battery. I have my stator cover off for a starter clutch and pick up coil replacement so I'll post a pick of where the connector is and what it looks like.
