Three piece Danmoto Clip On bars - or - flipping the stock bars ?

[Zeus36]

Decided to try out the Danmoto bars and spent half a day getting them configured. Due to it being a three piece setup, there are a lot of permutations. I wanted the clamps to have the stubs oriented at 9 and 3 to clamp the risers to, but that ran into a fitment issue with the master cylinders. I had to put the clamp stubs at the 6:00 position. 12:00 pushed them too far forward.

After putting everything together and doing a final QA, I found a crack on the left clamp:

Due to space limits, I only used a short Allen wrench to tighten those up.

Decided to pull everything off, and while holding the stock bars, decided to flip them over and see how that worked:

Hey not too different than what I was trying to get with the three-piece bars...

I don't run a tank cover, so no interference issues there. The right control pod comes real close to the tank rubber mount before hitting the stop.

I'm in the process of doing a return on the Danmoto bars as I just don't have confidence in the castings.
So, I will run the bars upside down for now; hopefully get a refund from Danmoto and save myself $120. ('cause the starter clutch just went out!)

Anyone else flipped their bars?

 

[one2dmax]

Without the tank cover you may find better performance if you reinstall the "y" section of the airbox. You can add about 1/4" worth of spacers. Fully opened up like that with nothing to control wind flow doesn't usually allow them to run to their potential.

 

[Fire-medic]

What about clubman bars?
https://3b0b747a213bc007f504-201cd9...ducts/large_49_1410467120_clubman-black21.jpg

 

[Zeus36]

Without the tank cover you may find better performance if you reinstall the "y" section of the airbox. You can add about 1/4" worth of spacers. Fully opened up like that with nothing to control wind flow doesn't usually allow them to run to their potential.

Sean,
I'll give that a try once I change out the starter clutch. Really getting the "box of rocks" grinding now.
I had to move the idle speed up to about 1200 RPM to keep it from dying once it got hot. Figured it was due to the prior owner changing the carb needles or putting a kit in and creating a rich condition. He had installed a full Dale Walker exhaust. I had not synched the carbs at that time. So max airflow to help lean it out -or so I thought. After converting over to the COPs, the problem cleared up and I was able to adjust the idle back to 1000 RPM. I also put in a new battery. Checked the needles and they look to be the stock units. Picked up a Sonco Model 364 Merc-o-tronic Vacuum Synchronizer for 40 bucks and set the carbs. Very minimal adjustment required.
Will need to get that heavy duty kit starter clutch from you.